[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by One Fan To Another /img/forum/go_quote.gif Oh, I'd like to add: The best thing I did for my headphone setup was add a BBE Sonic Maximizer. Forget tubes for a second, for less than the price of a couple pairs of EH 6H30Pi tubes you can get a Maximizer off of eBay and get a far superior and much more palpable change in you sound. I can't use my headphone setup without one at this point.

Well, hearing is subjective after all. If it works for you..it works for you.

I disagree completely with your opinion about the 6H30's. I find mine work wonders over the stock tubes. I've also modified my MK III a little more than most folks, the mod having a very positive effect revealing details, nuance, lowering the noise floor, better bass (tighter), more focused mids.....slightly wider sound stage.This is with Sylvania,Tung Sol (EF 95's) and Mullard (EF 92) drivers into a pair of NOS 6H30Pi-DR's. If you thought the Golds were expensive

You've talked about the power tubes...what driver tubes are you using ?
These really can make or break the amps overall SQ.

Peete.

 

[One Fan To Another]

As I said in my other post I'm using Sylvania 6AK5 Golds for the driver tubes (how come no one calls these the pre-amp tubes around here?).

But, like you said its all subjective (with a touch of 'more expensive is better' syndrome thrown in) so whatever. Although, I guess it's a lot better to prefer the cheap tubes

 

[erikzen]

My Little Dot MKIII just arrived today. I ordered it last Monday, it shipped on Thursday and here on Tuesday. Excellent service and delivery!

OK so I've been burning in the amp for about 8 minutes. Way too early to give impressions.

I'm also running the pre-amp out to my Stax SRM-1/MKII with Lambda Pros. It seems like I really need to crank up the volume on the LD and adjust the volume from the Stax amp. Is this the best way to do this? Should I be increasing the gain for this kind of setup?

I honestly tried to read this whole thread but there are a year's worth of posts here. Maybe we can cut to the chase and I can get some opinions on tubes.

First off, with the stock tubes, when the amp burns in will it get a little crisper? I had hoped that this amp would tame the SA5000 but I'm afraid perhaps it might be too much. I'd like the vocals to sound a bit fuller also. Right now they're sounding a bit boxy. Still there are interesting nuances to the sound so I am intrigued. I just want to know what to expect from the stock configuration.

What would be a good tube for the SA5000? I like their detail, airiness and clarity, but don't like how they can be so analytical. I don't want to tone it down too much but just make it a bit less fatiguing. So far, I think with the stock tubes it takes it a bit too far.

Is there are particular tube that is better suited to using the amp as a pre-amp? The Lambda Pros are my favorite headphone but they can be a bit polite in the bass department. Is there a tube that works well when using the LD as a pre-amp that might add a touch of warmth to the Stax without losing all of its speed?

Finally, I've read some back and forth about the power tubes. It seems like it's necessary to mod the amp in order to put different tubes other than the stock ones. Then in a very recent post I see there is a version 2 that negates having to mod the amp to try different power tubes. What is the final word on rolling power tubes?

Just as an aside, I laughed out loud when I read parts of the owner's manual. I don't mean to make fun of anyone, certainly Little Dot is doing a great job with their products and far be it from me to make fun of someone who attempts to be bilingual when I can't even speak English correctly. But you have to admit the operating instructions on page six are pretty humorous. Couldn't some nice Head-Fier offer to do a proper English manual for these guys?

Where is Matata anyway? And why do we want to go there?

Matata - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[ScottieB]

@erikzen- no doubt things will open up considerably with use, but while I am no expert on your equipment, from what you said about wanting to bring vocals and crispness up a bit, I found the 6ZH1P to do just that.
VOSHOD 6ZH1P-EV / 6AK5 NOS Little Dot Amplifier EF95 - eBay (item 280268869219 end time Feb-16-09 01:56:57 PST)

Quote:

Originally Posted by mudhole /img/forum/go_quote.gif I just talked with sword-yang yesterday, he said the new version LD MKIII v2.0 has already changed the resistor from 68ohm to 120ohm. So you can use the 6H30 power tube without doing the resistor mod. Check your PCB version No. first.

This is very interesting as I was told I had one of the first v2.0s... but when I contacted David he had a slightly different take:

"To answer your question, there are no version of the Little Dot MK III that can use the 6H30 type tubes and be completely stable in doing so. While theoretically you could use them, the setup will not be optimal and is not recommended."

Just wanted to put that out there. Did sword say anything about the stability of it?

 

[erikzen]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottieB /img/forum/go_quote.gif @erikzen- no doubt things will open up considerably with use

No doubt. Hour two and it's already sounding much better.

Thanks for the tip and the link.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by One Fan To Another /img/forum/go_quote.gif As I said in my other post I'm using Sylvania 6AK5 Golds for the driver tubes (how come no one calls these the pre-amp tubes around here?). But, like you said its all subjective (with a touch of 'more expensive is better' syndrome thrown in) so whatever. Although, I guess it's a lot better to prefer the cheap tubes

I'm the last person that would suffer from "more expensive is better" mindset as you call it. In your case it certainly is a bonus to prefer cheap tubes, you save a load of cash.

Sylvania golds and what, gold pins, gold label, black plate round getter, gray plate rectangular getter ? There are many versions of the Sylvania 6AK5, some terrific some not so terrific. The best Syl's are the 50's, early 60's era round getter black plates that are 6AK5W or WA mil spec. These can be had for reasonable price depending on who is selling them.

Peete.

 

[YtseJamer]

FYI : 3 x NOS Sylvania 6AK5 WB Vacuum Tubes **sorry for the spam**

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Wow you really went for the system upgrade pfillion....I wish I had the $$ for those tubes you have...alas I'm tapped from XMAS holidays and such.

Rudistor amp on the way....nice !!!

Peete.

 

[cswann1]

Hey Prickley Peete,
What modifications did you have to do (or have done) To get your MKIII to accept the 6H30Pi-DR tubes?

 

[goorackerelite]

Quote:

Originally Posted by erikzen /img/forum/go_quote.gif First off, with the stock tubes, when the amp burns in will it get a little crisper? I had hoped that this amp would tame the SA5000 but I'm afraid perhaps it might be too much. I'd like the vocals to sound a bit fuller also. Right now they're sounding a bit boxy. Still there are interesting nuances to the sound so I am intrigued. I just want to know what to expect from the stock configuration. What would be a good tube for the SA5000? I like their detail, airiness and clarity, but don't like how they can be so analytical. I don't want to tone it down too much but just make it a bit less fatiguing. So far, I think with the stock tubes it takes it a bit too far. Matata - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Okay, the stock driver tubes do get crisper with burn in. They get brighter and the bass becomes a bit more tight, but I feel it's a little bloated. Very analytical tubes.

If you want some warmth and perfect bass control try mullard m8161 they're very cohesive and smooth through out the range.

Or if you want absolute lush tubby wide sound with fatter bass but not as controlled, try the Mullard CV138 (large shields) in the EF91 family. These are my tubes of choice for my system btw.

I've heard the Mazdas are supposedly very lush and warm as well.

 

[YtseJamer]

Thanks Peete

Now I hope that I will be done for a while.

Patrick


Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif Wow you really went for the system upgrade pfillion....I wish I had the $$ for those tubes you have...alas I'm tapped from XMAS holidays and such. Rudistor amp on the way....nice !!! Peete.

 

[mudhole]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottieB /img/forum/go_quote.gif @erikzen- no doubt things will open up considerably with use, but while I am no expert on your equipment, from what you said about wanting to bring vocals and crispness up a bit, I found the 6ZH1P to do just that. VOSHOD 6ZH1P-EV / 6AK5 NOS Little Dot Amplifier EF95 - eBay (item 280268869219 end time Feb-16-09 01:56:57 PST) This is very interesting as I was told I had one of the first v2.0s... but when I contacted David he had a slightly different take: "To answer your question, there are no version of the Little Dot MK III that can use the 6H30 type tubes and be completely stable in doing so. While theoretically you could use them, the setup will not be optimal and is not recommended." Just wanted to put that out there. Did sword say anything about the stability of it?

The story is:
I am a Chinese with bad English skill, so after I ordered my MKIII, I went to Little Dot's Chinese forums to ask sword helping me select some tubes from yen-audio(ebay). He recommended western electric 403B and M8100/cv4010 for driver, and 6H30pi for power.

But after I searched this thread, I found this issue. I asked sword again that "if I use 6H30pi, do I need to mod the resistor from 68ohm to 120ohm?". Then he replied the new v2.0 version is already using 120ohm resistors instead of 68ohm. He didn't say anything about the stability.

I am a newbie, I am confused again

This is the link of my thread in Chinese ld forums. hope you guys can understand Chinese, for me Chinese is much easier than tube rolling.

http://www.little-tube.com/bbs/dispb...ID=2475&page=1

 

[One Fan To Another]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif Sylvania golds and what, gold pins, gold label, black plate round getter, gray plate rectangular getter ? There are many versions of the Sylvania 6AK5, some terrific some not so terrific. The best Syl's are the 50's, early 60's era round getter black plates that are 6AK5W or WA mil spec. These can be had for reasonable price depending on who is selling them.

Oh, yeah sorry, they are the golds with gold pins (side note: from what I've read gold plated pins does NOTHING when it comes to tubes), grey plates and rectangular getters (GB-5654 type). I know these not the good ones that everyone goes on about (ie. black plates, round getters) but I got them back when I got my amp just to try out since I had planned to try a lot of tubes (I've tried a couple types - GE something or other and Tung-Sols) the next one I think I'll try is the Mullard M8161 I think.

But for the power tubes people, in this thread, were saying it basically came down to the stock tubes and the EH 6H30Pi Gold tubes (or the DR like you have). So, I tried 'em and thought, "This is not worth the mod trouble, the price, and the chance of killing tubes" - which some here have experienced. So, back in the stock tubes went.

 

[ScottieB]

Thanks, Mudhole. Sorry but not a word of Chinese here.

edit - next post sums it up I think...

 

[One Fan To Another]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mudhole /img/forum/go_quote.gif The story is: I am a Chinese with bad English skill, so after I ordered my MKIII, I went to Little Dot's Chinese forums to ask sword helping me select some tubes from yen-audio(ebay). He recommended western electric 403B and M8100/cv4010 for driver, and 6H30pi for power. But after I searched this thread, I found this issue. I asked sword again that "if I use 6H30pi, do I need to mod the resistor from 68ohm to 120ohm?". Then he replied the new v2.0 version is already using 120ohm resistors instead of 68ohm. He didn't say anything about the stability. I am a newbie, I am confused again This is the link of my thread in Chinese ld forums. hope you guys can understand Chinese, for me Chinese is much easier than tube rolling. Little-Tube-¶ú·Åר°æ-ÇëÑîÀÏʦ°ïæѡ¹Ü×Ó

The problem, that others have pointed out, with simply having a 120ohm resistor instead of the 68ohm resistor is that the other parts on the board are cheap Chinese parts that may not be rated perfectly and therefore not provide the proper power structure to allow the amp to run dependably with 6H30Pi tubes. So, some people here, who simply changed the resistors to 120ohms still had problems some even had their tubes die.