[baronbeehive]

Thank you. I'm sure the legs are physically in contact. I can pull the leg without breaking the soldering point.
Next time I will do it for sure ... I've done it for the wire, indeed logical to do it for legs.

Yes, that's a good test, pull and if it comes apart you probably have a cold solder joint, if not it's good. Your joints look good, if they don't look shiny you might be in trouble, coming on nicely !

BTW, your Elna Silmics are polarized so make sure you connect them the right way round to the board.

 

[gug42]

Thx. Yeah evrything stay in place !

Ready for next move I will check and re-check the - and +

 

[gug42]

Hello Guys,

Job done ! Happy to have make it.

Scarry time, cut the leg :

Left side :

right side :

So a long moment when I push the power button. Seems to me a very long time before the warm up finish.
The vu metter are now at 65 for the left and 70 for the righ (not a quad matched ... only two pairs for this set .... I will try with a quad matched set.)

I think it's a little more detailled and the bass seems to be more deep and clean (the difference between two instruments seems more clear). I'm pretty sure to head a clear diffence, but don't wan to over react

Thank you every one !
Hope my albums could help someone, really it's not hard to do ! Just time !

 

[gug42]

Hello,

A quick question : did you know a small sized MKP for bypass ?
Well It will be really easy to solder if I can have the space inside ... (you warn me for the size of the audyn true copper max indeed ... )
Thank you in advance !

 

[baronbeehive]

Good work Gug42!

I think however you have 165 ohms now at the cathodes - 2 x 330 ohm resistors in parallel, one new one and the other one on the back of the board? Was that your intention?

Why do you need bypasses now?

Are you going ahead with the Audyns? You will certainly notice the sound difference with those in place!!

Now go ahead and destroy your old Wima coupling caps lol .

 

[gug42]

I think however you have 165 ohms now at the cathodes - 2 x 330 ohm resistors in parallel, one new one and the other one on the back of the board? Was that your intention?

Bias mod for 5598 (I have 5998A that I prefer over stock 5998A or TS 6AS7G)

Why do you need bypasses now?

Because they are easy to install and can improve the sound quality ?

Are you going ahead with the Audyns? You will certainly notice the sound difference with those in place!!

Place inside is still a problem ... Perphaps I can install them outside and drill the the bottom aluminum plate for cables.
There is still some place between the chassis and my desk, thx to the feet.

Now go ahead and destroy your old Wima coupling caps lol .

To be honnest I found very hard to destroy a wima caps ... So a little be scarred to do this mod .... more easy if it was only to cut some leg (like bypass).
I will try to find a better tool, more sharp ... if you know a very good one

 

[SonicTrance]

To be honnest I found very hard to destroy a wima caps ... So a little be scarred to do this mod .... more easy if it was only to cut some leg (like bypass).
I will try to find a better tool, more sharp ... if you know a very good one

I still recommend to remove the board and simply de-solder the caps. It can be a bit tricky the first time but once you get the hang of it you're removing the board in a couple of minutes. If you go this route do be careful with the wires on top side of board. They are very brittle and WILL break if you're not careful. Take pics of the wires so you know where to connect them if they come loose.
Once the board is out it's very easy to de-solder the coupling caps.

 

[baronbeehive]

Bias mod for 5598 (I have 5998A that I prefer over stock 5998A or TS 6AS7G)


Because they are easy to install and can improve the sound quality ?


Place inside is still a problem ... Perphaps I can install them outside and drill the the bottom aluminum plate for cables.
There is still some place between the chassis and my desk, thx to the feet.


To be honnest I found very hard to destroy a wima caps ... So a little be scarred to do this mod .... more easy if it was only to cut some leg (like bypass).
I will try to find a better tool, more sharp ... if you know a very good one

Ok for the resistors and the bias mod, I forgot!

You only need bypasses for the high capacitance cathode bypass caps.

I don't see why you can't find space for the Audyn caps inside but if you really don't have space then you could use longer screws and spacers to extend the bottom plate and the fill roud the gap with something. An idea I got from Maxx was to use heat sink such as this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/130mm-Heat...UTF8&qid=1502045222&sr=8-17&keywords=heatsink

This amp uses heatsink to extend the bottom:

You should follow Sonic's advice but if you can't then I destroyed my WCF wima caps with these, for your wima coupling caps perhaps a bigger pair? Then you can cut down to the legs and use these to solder on to.

Do you have a picture of your amp showing the Audyns inside where I suggested so that I can see if they fit?

Edit:
I don't think he wants to remove the board Sonic!!

 

[baronbeehive]

.......something like this:

but surely you can fit those Audyns in OK?

 

[gug42]

Hello,

Thank you all ! Nice trick about the spacers indeed, thx.
I will try to find a better tool to cut.

Thx

 

[gug42]

Eliminating NFB would require a comprehensive redesign not fitting under the purpose of this thread. NFB is keeping this amp afloat. It cannot simply be eliminated without designing out the problems it was utilized to sweep under the rug.

For the benefit of whoever might be interested, I drew up clean versions of MK6 audio circuit schems.

Great schematics thx you

 

[Mogos]

Ineed, nice stuff ! Well what your black M cap for bypass ? the elmicII is a bit too high ...
Moreover the little dot in silver case seems to have a little more space than the black version, isnt it ?


Mogos, if you came here, can you tell me the references of the underlying "silver" case ? It can be good option to add an underlying case

Edit : found this : http://www.conrad.fr/ce/fr/product/...tage-extrieur-M6-Hauteur-25-mm-1-pcs?ref=list

Can help to add the little missing space inside the box ??

The "silver" extension was done by me. To do that I have to order the corner elements to be done by CNC processing from aluminium bar 10x40 mm. Having the corner elements I have assembled the extension frame usin perforated steel plates and prefabricated aluminium corner elements. Then painted all together. If I will do it again it will be a little higher/dipper. Extension shall have at least the hight of the stock frame.

 

[Mogos]

Hey baronbeehive, don't be sorry for to show my work. The position of my pot dose have nothing to do with the volume regulation. When I had problems with hum I dicided to dismantle the pot and use the tantalum 2W resistors. And it stayed like this. I am controling the volume digitaly in the scope of +- 6 db. And It works for me perfectly.

 

[gug42]

Thank you for thoses informations and photo ! Really nice work indeed !
Well don't find the time to work on my amp ... hope for soon !

 

[baronbeehive]

Hey baronbeehive, don't be sorry for to show my work. The position of my pot dose have nothing to do with the volume regulation. When I had problems with hum I dicided to dismantle the pot and use the tantalum 2W resistors. And it stayed like this. I am controling the volume digitaly in the scope of +- 6 db. And It works for me perfectly.

No,indeed I think you should show it off at every available opportunity lol!! I was only saying to gug42 not to be put off by the amount of work to do by showing him what you did to yours inside, massive job indeed!