[Maxx134]

Make sure they are the resistors and not those blue covered caps in one piece.

The resistors supposed to feed tye power tubes...

As long as your giving a bigger wattage than before you are good so it can dissipate more heat and wont burn years later...

If you wannna get critical I have been researching resistors and in crirical circuits the carbon resistors are said to induce a type of noise which is like pink noise ina way as it is not harsh noise.

To combat that different resistors are available like metal film(higher Tolerances) and also wirewound(better surge handling) there are both advantages and disadvantages in both but both are better than carbon. .

If I were you, I would look for non inductive and non magnetic I would choose one from this company:

http://www.partsconnexion.com/resistors_mills_mra5.html



Wirewound are best for surges they can take more punishment although in this amp the power should be constant and the only variable would be the type of tube as they have different heater current draw I believe this resistor feeds the heater if I am not mistaken. .

P.S:
Remember to solder the resistors away and a bit above from the main board so it can dissipate heat without affecting/heating circuit board..

 

[SoundEngineer]

Maxx134,
 
Thank you so much for your information.  
 
What do you think about these resistors?
http://www.partsconnexion.com/resistors_kiwame_five_watt.html
 
It says they are Carbon Film Resistors.  I don't know much about resistors but ozaudio had good experience so I decided to buy 8 of them in 330ohm 5W.
 
 
Another question.  Do you think changing the WIMA caps to Mundorf Mcaps supreme for the power tubes will improve the sound quality?  Are those x8 WIMA caps right above the power tube socket where it says 6080 the output caps?

 

[Maxx134]

Maxx134,

Thank you so much for your information.  

What do you think about these resistors?
http://www.partsconnexion.com/resistors_kiwame_five_watt.html

It says they are Carbon Film Resistors.  I don't know much about resistors but ozaudio had good experience so I decided to buy 8 of them in 330ohm 5W.


Another question.  Do you think changing the WIMA caps to Mundorf Mcaps supreme for the power tubes will improve the sound quality?  Are those x8 WIMA caps right above the power tube socket where it says 6080 the output caps?

If you're talking about changing these caps circled in yellow :

I would say leave alone.
There are many types of caps for specific usage and not just the capacitance value.
They should not be in the signal path at all .
only those 4 big .22uf caps are and you already changing those...

The resistors you mentioned are very good and perfect for usage in this application where they are not for signal but only for feeding the tube power.
They are carbon and the so called slight noise they may introduce does not have any result in the tube as some amps have AC to the tube heaters so really its a non issue.
Who knows if that so called extra bit of noise in carbon resistors helps the tube heater filament give off more easily electrons.


The only reason I personally would go with "wire wound" resistor is that they are more durable and pure and can take higher surge and to me are the best,
but still the only benifit in changing the resistors in that amp, is to have better heat dissipation so they won't burn or heat the board excessively.

 

[Maxx134]

If you want to go crazy about everything then I would suggest replacing stock fuses with ceramic fuses.

And may be a few resistors in the signal path around the two preamp stage tubes,
but I don't know which.
plus they may already be good quality so redundant.
that's it.

Oh and possible wire replacement to silver or silver plated which to me is wrong/redundant/unnecessary,
because the circuit board is copper and I rather have same metal so as not to alter the conductance.
No top tube amps use silver wiring, rather most are point to point soldered..
I personally have had undesirable effects of using silver plated with heaphone cables when swapping in my hd800,
which were capable of detecting cable changes..

 

[john57]

I concur to what Maxx134 stated.

 

[SoundEngineer]

Maxx134,
 
Thank you so much for helping me with your knowledge and know how.  
 
Do you know what kind of resistors are the stock Chinese blue resistors (circled in yellow)? Are these ceramic or wire wound?


 
 
Also, does polarity matter when I'm installing the Mundorf caps?  If polarity does matter...then could you let me know what side is positive?

 
 
Thank you very much for your help.

 

[Maxx134]

I was mistaken in using the the word "ceramic" for carbon in speaking about resistors...

the only issue with the stock resistors was their wattage,
which was probably good on paper but real life alotta heat in that little metal frame..

The color of stock resistor means nothing as they can be good quality but just not enough wattage rating.
Looks like a nice carbon film type but they could also be the better metal film and they do look rather large.
Find out the tolerance rating on it..

It not look wire wound although I do think the mk8 looks to be so..
Anyways just speculation.

Usually where polarity is of concern in a circuit,
You will see the caps labeled with "plus"&"minus" symbols...
Maybe some purists like to put the Mundorf in a certain way but I would look into the data sheet pdf file on it to see if there is any benifit.

You would have to ask or Google those that used these caps as well.
I have not used them (yet)..

 

[john57]

I was mistaken in using the the word "ceramic" for carbon in speaking about resistors...

Yes for me "Ceramic" resistors are those big air core wire round resistors which the Little Dot does not use. There is sand or cement resistors that looks like a long white block that you will see on the VI+ on the bottom side of the circuit board. 

 

[atistatic]

there is something interesting for you ... http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html http://www.co-bw.com/Audio_High_End_Capacitors.htm

 

[john57]

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
 
 

http://www.co-bw.com/Audio_High_End_Capacitors.htm

 

[Maxx134]

About the caps "I" circled,
You "could" get all the info written on them, and compare them to the parts website to see if they sell a tigher tolerance,
BUT!!!
Remember the unit was adjusted to these parts for zero DC offset with the the pot for the opamp..
plus the circuit has auto-bias and I know nothing how this operate as I don't have an mk6,
So I would not touch extra parts without more research.
Only the 8 resistors and 4caps mentioned throughout thread are suggested so I would not go Rambo on it.

 

[SoundEngineer]

Yes, Maxx134!  I will not go RAMBO and ruin my MKVI+  =).  I will just stick to the x4 caps on for the audio signal and 8 resistors for power tubes.
 
 
I was also wondering if anyone has ever tried C3g tubes on MK VI+.  I heard so many good things bout C3g or C3g S that I really want to try them out on MK VI+.  
 
 
Has anyone succeeded on using C3g on their MKVI+?

 

[Maxx134]

Yes, Maxx134!  I will not go RAMBO and ruin my MKVI+  =).  I will just stick to the x4 caps on for the audio signal and 8 resistors for power tubes.


...

Well I have a saying,
If you can't go Rambo on the guts,
Go PIMP on the body!!

Yeah I see alot of pimping potential for that baby...
*If* I had a unit,
I would go rouge with new volume knob, new feet, new transformer covers, extra guages and lighting, chrome tube cages, chrome tube dampers, socket elevation addons, extra trimm...
But I would stop at led under the tubes...
That is too much.. maybe...

 

[SoundEngineer]

LOL! Too funny. I think I have to do some of that pimping on the body. Chrome gauge covers, new chrome feet, chrome transformer cover, chrome rings around the tube base, and new volume knobs would be a nice start.

Since i have the board taken out i might as pimp the body too.

Thanks for the awesome ideas.

 

[Maxx134]

Noooooowaahh!
I was just joking!

lol