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I dont think the mk8 comes with fans, only mk6..not sure if it even has fans anymore
Ahh Didint realize you guys were talking about the MK8 , my bad.
But its weird why they would remove the fans from an amp that clearly needs them.
I believe the MKVI will always have fans, Little Dot themselves always recommend to have the fans on although they also say that it's not necessary to have them at all times, eg depending on ambient temperature. But the size and heat of the tubes on the MKVI is what makes them necessary but not on the MKVIII.
It is top notch - after some simple mods that Little Dot used to offer as a package, such as caps and wiring, - as others here have found, I will leave it to them to say though, but some members have had the priviledge of attending meets where they were able to compare with all top amps.
As standard it is an extremely good amp with super soundstage and holography, comparing favouraly with some Woo amps for example. Also you won't find another balanced amp at this price point.
Hi colliedoggy, you should come on to the mods thread again, I'm sure we could help with that, Maxx has had something very similar which was a cold solder joint. Myself, I had the unit mothballed for around a year but eventually the problem turned out to be something very simple.
Edit: I can't find your original post but I think you said that one meter reading dropped after a while when switched on. This sounds like classic cold solder, initially no problems but as the unit heats up and the joints expand the contact becomes intermittent. The way to check this out is to find which of the 4 circuits is causing the problem and isolate the problem connection with a multimeter. A cold solder is often apparent visually as a dimpled, dull looking join, often just pulling at it will pull it apart. If you know how to isolate the problem circuit that's good, otherwise you could check out the supermod thread again.
You could also do a visual check to see that the pads haven't lifted. Yours doesn't seem to be a major problem, shame to mothball your unit!
Do you guys think the MK VIII would be a good fit for my headphone collection ? Thanks.
I have the HD800S, it's great with the MK VII. As long as most of your headphones are high to medium impedance, the MK VII will work fine.
There are circuits that will cause the amp/headphone combination to behave as though the load is higher impedance/the amp is lower impedance. It's not the typical in-line resistor, which will do quite the opposite. It's at the bottom section of the hyperlinked post. You may need a bit of soldering skill.
P.S. I feel so poor. I only have a I+. Somebody donate a MKVIII to this underprivileged audiophile. A little donation goes a long way. (I'm kidding, hopefully obviously)
Hello. I m looking for a good pair to my SS headphone amp in the tube field. Currently I m choosing between Elekit 8600, LD mk6 and LD mk8 se. Tube pair is seems to be "working" only with HD800 and LCD4.
LD mk6 is not preffered as it has an active cooling and for a bed time setup it might be crazy bad idead. My wife might send me out to sleep on the coach. But I must be 100% sure if MK8se is really good pair for LCD4...
Please share with me your oppinion about this 3 variants.
P.S. Elekit is a 300b amp - my favourite tube.
Can some kind soul furnish me with the manual and schematics for the Little Dot MK Vi. Also is it possible to have a list of basic mods that can be done. I have read the mod thread but its too technical for me. I hope someone can help me with a simple list. Thank you all. Much appreciated.
I can't help you with a mods list (other than recommended tube rolling), but the official Mk VI+ page is:
and includes a (Dropbox) link to the manual:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ros42b1n4a0vitj/Little Dot MK VI+ Reference Guide.pdf?dl=0
Thank you very much for your help. I am looking for the schematic drawing for the LD MK Vi, one doesn't seem to be available. I don't mind getting the list for the tube rolling as well. Thanks Dave.
You're very welcome. In addition to the amazing link SonicTrance shared above, here's my original post on my collected favorites for tube rolling so far:
Thank you very much sir, I am getting a friend of mine who is well versed in electronics to just change out some of the caps and resistors. Nothing too fancy. He tells me the green RIFA caps change out will make give the best improvement. He recommended going with something from TDK, EPCOS or Sprague for the original Philips caps.
I am currently running 7236 with Kenrad 231. I do have Sylania 229 as well. I am on high gain as my Abyss Phi CC is a hungry beast, not so the LCD-3f. Trying to get 5998 for the power tubes, but they are quite ex and difficult to get though a friend of mine as 4 of them and willing to let go. Let's see.
My suggestions for mods would be:
1 - most important - coupling caps x 4:
or something cheaper:
Russian caps such as: K75-10, or K73-16
2 - almost as important as coupling caps - WCF caps x 4: same as above
3 - Anode resistors x 4:
4 - Cathode resistors x 2:
The anode/cathode resistor changes will increase liveliness of the amp considerably, but they will work best if you are using 6SL7 tubes. If you chose the Russian caps these mods would not be expensive but I have no experience of these caps.
The drawback is you will need to remove the PCB in order to solder the new parts in place.
Any questions about these mods, just check up page one of the supermods thread that SonicTrance posted or post a question on that thread and we will be happy to help!