Doh! I cleaned up my Mouser project list last week, and deleted a bunch of them, this one included. However, all the components are in the schematic above. Starting with the power supply, the 2 180 Ohm resistors are Ohmite 45F180E, wirewound, rated at 5 W. The filtering caps are United Chemicon KXJ, rated at 250V. The two resistors that form the voltage divider for the heater center tap can be 1 W whatever. The bypass capacitor is 10uF, 100V; I used what I had on hand which was a Vishay. All the resistors in the amp are Vishay RN60 or CCF60. CMF60 will also do. The RN60 are military rated for 1/4 W, but for civilian use, they are actually 1 W resistors. As for the coupling caps, any polypropylene cap of a reputable brand should do. I would use caps rated for at least 250V. The output coupling electrolytics are Nichicon UPW, chosen for their low impedance nature.
One note: Because I'm using a stepped attenuator, I was able to move the input coupling capacitor to before the attenuator. If you are using a regular potentiometer, I'd keep it on the wiper to avoid any DC from the grid of the 6AK5. It probably won't matter at first, but eventually, the pot will become scratchy from the DC.