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Little Dot I+ Tube Rolling
Oct 3, 2018 at 2:27 PM Post #3,076 of 3,154
Pretty nice .. love this LD1+ :)

V5i + Jan Ge 5455W + E-Mu Teak = wonderful combo, seems each one is made for each other
V5i + Voskhods + E-mu Teak = very detailed but a tad too bright for long term listening
V5i + Voskhods + HD58X = let the sennis shine, simply perfect match

Next thing now should be a change of the the poti. Some did it and are convinced it it is huge step forward. A pity I am not able to do this .. lack of skill and and knowledge. A nice alps poti would be great. But to fix it inside and connect it to the panel I would need a professional. As there is no audible imbalance at all I will leave the poti as it is.
 
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Nov 21, 2018 at 9:51 AM Post #3,077 of 3,154
Just had a look at both V_2 and V_4 Models, The V4_2015 the whole unit is Larger than V_2 and the biggest difference is the inside look:


V_2 ld1+_v2.jpg

V_4LD_1+_V4.jpg


To my Eyes the V_2 Design looks more sexier than V_4(ignore the size of the unit)

I am now thinking Is there any sound difference between these 2 models?? :nerd:
 
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Nov 26, 2018 at 10:41 AM Post #3,078 of 3,154
...can't find any sexiness at all in both versions :wink:
 
Nov 27, 2018 at 1:41 AM Post #3,080 of 3,154
Hmm I wonder how much the sound has changed. I loved my I+ so much I even got my friend to change the pot to a better one
 
Nov 29, 2018 at 11:56 AM Post #3,081 of 3,154
I too wanted to change the poti to a nice alps poti but meanwhile I am quite content how it is as there is no noticable imbalance at all. This is somehow rare in this price region. Even Ifi Ican at 3rd time the price had poti imbalance at low volumes.
The poti in the LD 1+ .... I am sure we have a kind of bottleneck here. Did you mentioned some improvement after changing it?
 
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Dec 1, 2018 at 6:34 AM Post #3,082 of 3,154
Anybody here interested in purchasing a few tubes to Little Dot I+ (EU only)? I am selling my amplifier and I have now six pairs of NOS tubes laying around.

Mullard CV5377/M8083/EF91 Matched
EI Yugoslavia 6HM5/EC900 Platinum Matched
Mullard CV4010/M8100/5654 Matched
Siemens 5654W/EF95/6AK5 Matched
JAN Philips ECG 5654W/6AK5/CV4010 Matched
Voskhod 6J1P-EV/6ZH1P-EV/EF95/6F32 Matched

I can send pictures of the items per request.
 
Dec 1, 2018 at 8:43 AM Post #3,083 of 3,154
Daimonos said:
Anybody here interested in purchasing a few tubes to Little Dot I+ (EU only)? I am selling my amplifier and I have now six pairs of NOS tubes laying around.

Mullard CV5377/M8083/EF91 Matched
EI Yugoslavia 6HM5/EC900 Platinum Matched
Mullard CV4010/M8100/5654 Matched
Siemens 5654W/EF95/6AK5 Matched
JAN Philips ECG 5654W/6AK5/CV4010 Matched
Voskhod 6J1P-EV/6ZH1P-EV/EF95/6F32 Matched

I can send pictures of the items per request.
Click to expand...

are ya from UK?
 
Dec 9, 2018 at 3:14 AM Post #3,085 of 3,154
Hi,
This is my first little dot 1+ post.

I got a “new” ld1 off eBay a couple months ago. And it’s worked fine for me so far. I keep the base plate unscrewed so I can easily access the gain switch. I’ve been doing research on electronics basics and how to solder. My goal is to build a bottlehead crack. So while I was checking out the circuit board in the ld1 I noticed that one of the smaller capacitors was buldging a little and had some residue on it (C14 on the circuit board to be exact). It’s a 470uf 16v 8mmx11.5mm. There’s another cap that’s the same directly across c14, which is C15. The only difference is that c14 a KYA series and C15 is a KZG series. I checked on eBay and was able to find the KZG in 470uf 16V but not the KYA. Now on the circuit board it only states the cap rating and not the series. So, should I be ok replacing the kya with a KZG? I also found a couple other Nichicon series, such as the KMG, with the same rating for sale and other brands too. Not sure if it makes a difference. I did look at the Nichicon pdf page for each series and they have some different number rating for things I’m not familiar with.

Also, any idea what might cause the cap to bulge/leak? I didn’t inspect it when I first got it, but it was listed as new in open box. I’ve been using it with grado 225, hd6xx/58x, he4xx, M1060, and K7xx.
http://www.nfjapan.com/datasheet/KZG.pdf
http://www.chemi-con.com/upload/files/3/5/1611211683517194dcdfdc9.pdf
http://www.chemi-con.com/upload/files/9/1/133529179952d6c3126cc66.pdf
 
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Dec 14, 2018 at 7:43 AM Post #3,086 of 3,154
hey, quick and stupid question

i got ge 5654w, i changed k1 and k2 to correct setting but left side tube does not light up or work. did i do something wrong or is the tube broken

edit there is also k3. should i change that too?
 
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Jan 8, 2019 at 7:19 AM Post #3,088 of 3,154
V3ng3anc3 said:
Quote:


David might be on holiday like Audio-GD, due to Chinese New Year.

The following is from a previous post way back in the thread somewhere....

To use WE408A tubes:
1. K1 and K2 set to the side of the “WE408A” text
2. Make sure the jumper caps are removed from J1 and J2 (open circuit)

To use 6JI, 6AK5, 5654, WE403A/B, etc:
1. K1 and K2 set to the side of the “6JI” text
2. Make sure the jumper caps are removed from J1 and J2 (open circuit)

To use EF91, EF92, CV131, CV138, etc:
1. K1 and K2 set to the side of the “6JI” text
2. Make sure the jumpers caps are in place over both J1 and J2 (short circuit)

(EF91 = 6AM6 = Z77 = 6F12 = 8D3 = N79 = CV138 = 6064 = M8083 = CV4014)

(EF92 = 6CQ6 = W77 = 6F21 = 9D6 = CV131 = 6065 = M8161 = CV4015)

(EF95 = 6AK5 = 6j1p = 6069 = 6F32V = 6F32 = 5654 = 6ZH1P = M8100= 403A [=408a {heads up, higher heater voltages}])
Click to expand...

Does it apply for ld mkii?
 
Jan 27, 2019 at 6:13 AM Post #3,090 of 3,154
davestef132 said:
For grados do you guys keep your gain switch on the low setting? I have the sr225e, but low impedance cans in general. Or do you keep it on high and lower the volume in itunes etc?
Click to expand...

You should keep your source (iTunes etc) volume at maximum and adjust the volume on the amp. With my SR325is I keep the gain on low to minimize the noise floor, there's still plenty enough volume available.
 
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