[WilliamLeonhart]

Thanks for the recommendation on the MUSE02. I really gave it a lot of thoughts when Gibosi mentioned it, but it really costs too much for me now. The opa2107 on the other hand, less than a pizza.

On the I+ humming, my old one also had that problem and in the end had to send it back for warranty. And yep the I+ is really really susceptible to noise, so much that I never let my iphone near it. But after trying all the possible options, it's pretty much clear that I can do nothing but send it in

 

[drofeel71]

Thanks for the recommendation on the MUSE02. I really gave it a lot of thoughts when Gibosi mentioned it, but it really costs too much for me now. The opa2107 on the other hand, less than a pizza.

On the I+ humming, my old one also had that problem and in the end had to send it back for warranty. And yep the I+ is really really susceptible to noise, so much that I never let my iphone near it. But after trying all the possible options, it's pretty much clear that I can do nothing but send it in

I hunted for my Muses02 for ages and finally found a seller through Amazon. I think it cost me about £20, nowhere near the price on other sites and it's genuine. It's head and shoulders above opa2107 as I'd bought that previously.

 

[i luvmusic 2]

  repairs?

Yes,Tube adapters are expensive so i'am making my own version builtin to the chassis.

 

[Vandelay]

Hi,
I recently received my I+ and found that the layout of the circuit board differs a bit from the ones I've seen previously, so I figured I'd post it here for reference as well as ask some questions. It is listed as Little Dot I+_v4.0 (ordered from Shenzhenaudio with the WE408A tubes) and 2015-01.
 
It seems I can't include pictures as a newbie, so I've uploaded it to tinypic: http://i67.tinypic.com/wvnxbp.png (Sorry for the fuzzy image, I can take another photo later today if anyone is interested.)
 
In comparison to the reference pic and guide (http://littledot.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=819&sid=2ab5e576ada03c21cd7e7b585f12666b and https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6037680/Little%20Dot%20I%2B%20Reference%20Guide.pdf) it seems that J1' on version 4.0 corresponds to J2. It also has two dip switches, but also jumpers marked K1, K2, K3 ..? Can someone bring some clarity to this? I'm assuming it is now setup correctly for WE408A (i.e. no jumpers on J1 and J1', switches set away from 6J1), but can anyone clarify what the jumpers K1-K3 does? Do they (or just two of them) control the gain? The paper manual included shows the same layout as in the reference guide above, i.e. not as the build I received.
 
Thanks for any help I get. Loving the amp so far, looking forward to playing with the opamp and tube options!

 

[gibosi]

  Hi,
I recently received my I+ and found that the layout of the circuit board differs a bit from the ones I've seen previously, so I figured I'd post it here for reference as well as ask some questions. It is listed as Little Dot I+_v4.0 (ordered from Shenzhenaudio with the WE408A tubes) and 2015-01.
 
In comparison to the reference pic and guide (http://littledot.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=819&sid=2ab5e576ada03c21cd7e7b585f12666b and https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6037680/Little%20Dot%20I%2B%20Reference%20Guide.pdf) it seems that J1' on version 4.0 corresponds to J2. It also has two dip switches, but also jumpers marked K1, K2, K3 ..? Can someone bring some clarity to this? I'm assuming it is now setup correctly for WE408A (i.e. no jumpers on J1 and J1', switches set away from 6J1), but can anyone clarify what the jumpers K1-K3 does? Do they (or just two of them) control the gain? The paper manual included shows the same layout as in the reference guide above, i.e. not as the build I received.
 
Thanks for any help I get. Loving the amp so far, looking forward to playing with the opamp and tube options!

 
Little Dot has not updated the manual, so I assume the manual is still valid:
 
J3 and J4 are used to adjust the gain of the amp. If you are running 300 ohm cans, you might want to try changing these jumpers to see which works best.
 
K1, K2, J1 and J2 are used to accommodate different kinds of tubes (page 9 of the manual). However, I do not see a K3... maybe it is J3?

 

[Vandelay]

 
Little Dot has not updated the manual, so I assume the manual is still valid:
 
J3 and J4 are used to adjust the gain of the amp. If you are running 300 ohm cans, you might want to try changing these jumpers to see which works best.
 
K1, K2, J1 and J2 are used to accommodate different kinds of tubes (page 9 of the manual). However, I do not see a K3... maybe it is J3?

 


Hi. Not sure if you looked at the picture of my board (the tinypic link), but afaik there are no jumpers marked J2-5, instead there is J1' (which I gather to be J2) and K1-K3. Which is why I'm looking for some more information..

 

[gibosi]

Hi. Not sure if you looked at the picture of my board (the tinypic link), but afaik there are no jumpers marked J2-5, instead there is J1' (which I gather to be J2) and K1-K3. Which is why I'm looking for some more information..

 
As the picture is not very clear, I admit, that I didn't try to look at it closely. However, taking another look, I do see K1, K2 and K3. As my amp is older, I do not have these jumpers and I have no idea of their purpose. Further, the picture does not allow me to see enough detail to try to make an intelligent guess. And worse, it appears that Little Dot has not updated their online manual. So the best advice I can give you is to contact Little Dot and ask for an updated manual.
 
Good luck!

 

[PabloSRT8]

Hi, I'm new here, and even though I have my LDi+ for over a year, I never did anything to it.
I have Grado 325se and I mostly use my iPhone 6s Plus to listen to things like Pink Floyd, Foo Fighters or Dana del Ray.
Sometimes I would use my iPod Classic with uncompressed Jazz at the PownShop or CDs
I read some tunes reconnections and some MUSES02 also.
For my set up and music, what would you recommend?
Are MUSES02 alone enough? Do I need tubes upgrade with them? Or not worth it since my set up is not that good?
Any help is welcome.
Thank you!

 

[Vandelay]

 
 

   
As the picture is not very clear, I admit, that I didn't try to look at it closely. However, taking another look, I do see K1, K2 and K3. As my amp is older, I do not have these jumpers and I have no idea of their purpose. Further, the picture does not allow me to see enough detail to try to make an intelligent guess. And worse, it appears that Little Dot has not updated their online manual. So the best advice I can give you is to contact Little Dot and ask for an updated manual.
 
Good luck!

 
Thanks. I asked for a new manual, and they have updated the date in the reference guide right now, but it still does not look like my board. Anyways, I figured it out - on the 4.0 board, the jumpers J1 and J1' correspond to J1 and J2, and K1-K3 (which are now jumpers settings, not dip switches) should be set either pointing towards 6J1 or 408A. The dip switches on the board control the gain.
 
I've now tried it with Voshkod 6J1P-EV tubes, and am loving the sound. Except for a low humming noise which I did not hear when using the 408A tubes. The sound also disappear/lower when I touch the Little Dot .. I take it that the Voshkod tubes are more susceptible to interference, but can anyone give me some help on how to improve this, i.e. get rid of the mis-sound with the Voshkods?
 
Thanks,
Vandelay
 

 

[gibosi]

   
 
I've now tried it with Voshkod 6J1P-EV tubes, and am loving the sound. Except for a low humming noise which I did not hear when using the 408A tubes. The sound also disappear/lower when I touch the Little Dot .. I take it that the Voshkod tubes are more susceptible to interference, but can anyone give me some help on how to improve this, i.e. get rid of the mis-sound with the Voshkods?
 
 

 
I number of people have reported that the higher voltage tubes, for example, 12.6, 20 and 25.2, tend to be quieter than 6.3 volt tubes. However, before coming to any conclusions about your Voskhods, I would suggest that they need to be burned in for at least 20 hours, and some suggest 50, or more, before they quiet down.

 

[Vandelay]

   
I number of people have reported that the higher voltage tubes, for example, 12.6, 20 and 25.2, tend to be quieter than 6.3 volt tubes. However, before coming to any conclusions about your Voskhods, I would suggest that they need to be burned in for at least 20 hours, and some suggest 50, or more, before they quiet down.

That's very valuable information, thank you. I will let them run for a while before I decide whether to take action (buy a ground loop insulator to start with?) or not.

 

[iamxLn]

http://www.ssaudio.com.au/products/supreme-sound-opamp-v5/

anyone tried this opamp?

 

[gibosi]

http://www.ssaudio.com.au/products/supreme-sound-opamp-v5/

anyone tried this opamp?

 
I haven't... but I think you should!
 
The only potential problem I see is that it might be too tall to fit inside the case.

 

[WilliamLeonhart]

Just to be sure, will this 6hm5 fit my I+? I ordered it, but suddenly realized it look too different from my other tubes
 

 
The listing is here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EI-6HM5-EC900-6HA5-6HQ5-former-Yugoslavia-MATCHED-PAIR-TUBE-NOS-/400771715218?hash=item5d4fdb1092:grcAAOSwDk5UEhHk
 
Best Regards,

 

[WilliamLeonhart]

Hi, I'm new here, and even though I have my LDi+ for over a year, I never did anything to it.
I have Grado 325se and I mostly use my iPhone 6s Plus to listen to things like Pink Floyd, Foo Fighters or Dana del Ray.
Sometimes I would use my iPod Classic with uncompressed Jazz at the PownShop or CDs
I read some tunes reconnections and some MUSES02 also.
For my set up and music, what would you recommend?
Are MUSES02 alone enough? Do I need tubes upgrade with them? Or not worth it since my set up is not that good?
Any help is welcome.
Thank you!

I have not tried the MUSES02 yet, but for what the OPA2107 has done to my I+, I'd assume that the MUSES will do wonders as well. Not to mention gibosi has always recommended it to every one here.
 
I don't think the stock tubes (any kind) would do the I+ justice. With a nice opamp and a nice pair of tubes (which may be less than $10), you'd get the most from your I+.