Keyboard-Fi
Jul 12, 2013 at 8:04 PM Post #1,262 of 2,079
Quote:
If you don't use Macro's and keypad, the Tenkeyless uber small editions look great for you.

 
funny-F6-key-useless.jpg

 
(I actually do, can't live without it)
 
Jul 17, 2013 at 5:01 AM Post #1,263 of 2,079
IBM Model M?  Anyone?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380654875496?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
 
Got a solid one for $30, looks almost new (except for the yellowing).  Would like to change the keycaps, have been waiting for a reply back from Unicomp for ages....
 
Does not exactly feel "LEGENDARY" when pressing on the keys, though if the keycaps were softer, would certainly get more hours.
 
Anyone know of model m compatible keycaps with a soft-touch finish to them?
 
Jul 17, 2013 at 9:48 AM Post #1,264 of 2,079
Quote:
IBM Model M?  Anyone?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380654875496?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
 
Got a solid one for $30, looks almost new (except for the yellowing).  Would like to change the keycaps, have been waiting for a reply back from Unicomp for ages....
 
Does not exactly feel "LEGENDARY" when pressing on the keys, though if the keycaps were softer, would certainly get more hours.
 
Anyone know of model m compatible keycaps with a soft-touch finish to them?

Good price!  I know the 80's and early 90's models go for a bit more and are preferred, but I still think the later models are just as solid IMO, my current Model-M is a 95'.  Plus, those are typically XT (for terminal computers) and require a converter to work with PS/2.  If you want to try to remove the yellowing, I'd recommend checking this out: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/  The case is probably the only part that is yellowing, because it is made of softer ABS plastic.  You may need to disassemble, clean the PCB and replace the pivot plate/spring assembly of each switch if those are too gunky.  I've gotten some dirrrty boards in the past! 
tongue.gif
 
 
Parts are available on the Unicomp site: http://pckeyboard.com/ and they offer many different colors of keycaps, so you can customize it how you like.  Their keycaps, as well as the originals, are made of PBT plastic with dye sublimated characters, which is certainly already the highest quality and highest durability you can get.  Not sure if they make them out of any other material or offer them with a soft touch coating, but you may be able to find a clear coat spray paint that has a soft touch finish (just speculating, but it could be out there somewhere).  I'd advise against clear coating though, since it will just wear off with use.  
 
PBT is going to be the softest feeling plastic - while ABS is a softer material, it doesn't necessarily feel softer and loses it's texture much quicker, making the keys feel slick or sticky.  PBT keys can still get worn and shiny if the board got tons of use (like thousands of hours), so switching them out, and possibly replacing the pivot plate and springs may breathe new life into your board. 
biggrin.gif

 
Jul 19, 2013 at 2:45 AM Post #1,265 of 2,079
Quote:
Good price!  I know the 80's and early 90's models go for a bit more and are preferred, but I still think the later models are just as solid IMO, my current Model-M is a 95'.  Plus, those are typically XT (for terminal computers) and require a converter to work with PS/2.  If you want to try to remove the yellowing, I'd recommend checking this out: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/  The case is probably the only part that is yellowing, because it is made of softer ABS plastic.  You may need to disassemble, clean the PCB and replace the pivot plate/spring assembly of each switch if those are too gunky.  I've gotten some dirrrty boards in the past! 
tongue.gif
 
 
Parts are available on the Unicomp site: http://pckeyboard.com/ and they offer many different colors of keycaps, so you can customize it how you like.  Their keycaps, as well as the originals, are made of PBT plastic with dye sublimated characters, which is certainly already the highest quality and highest durability you can get.  Not sure if they make them out of any other material or offer them with a soft touch coating, but you may be able to find a clear coat spray paint that has a soft touch finish (just speculating, but it could be out there somewhere).  I'd advise against clear coating though, since it will just wear off with use.  
 
PBT is going to be the softest feeling plastic - while ABS is a softer material, it doesn't necessarily feel softer and loses it's texture much quicker, making the keys feel slick or sticky.  PBT keys can still get worn and shiny if the board got tons of use (like thousands of hours), so switching them out, and possibly replacing the pivot plate and springs may breathe new life into your board. 
biggrin.gif

I've tried retrobright before, too messy and time consuming for me 
size]

I've also inquired on their address listed on their webpage, still no response..  The keyboard itself probably needs taken apart and cleaned, could not find a 5.5 in my home that was narrow enough to fit.
 
From what I can tell, the inside of the keyboard appears to be fairly clean.  Keys do not feel sticky / gunky either.

Does anyone know of a bit set that has a handle with a long, yet narrow shaft?  I have my IBM Model M and Virtual Boys to take apart, Home Depot and Microcenter were of no help.
 
Jul 19, 2013 at 3:42 AM Post #1,266 of 2,079
KBTalking Pro with Cherry MX Reds



Razer BlackWidow Tournament with Cherry MX Blues


Cooler Master Storm Trigger with Cherry MX Browns


Cooler Master QuickFire Rapid with Cherry MX Blues

 
Jul 19, 2013 at 9:55 AM Post #1,267 of 2,079
Quote:
I've tried retrobright before, too messy and time consuming for me 
size]

I've also inquired on their address listed on their webpage, still no response..  The keyboard itself probably needs taken apart and cleaned, could not find a 5.5 in my home that was narrow enough to fit.
 
From what I can tell, the inside of the keyboard appears to be fairly clean.  Keys do not feel sticky / gunky either.

Does anyone know of a bit set that has a handle with a long, yet narrow shaft?  I have my IBM Model M and Virtual Boys to take apart, Home Depot and Microcenter were of no help.

I agree that RetroBrite is hit or miss, but some have had success with it.  That's good that it seems to be clean, I've just had some messy boards before that I've had to restore.  Microcenter typically has stuff like that (at least the one near me) but you may have to resort to looking on Amazon, that is generally my go-to now.  If I come across something that'll work good I'll let you know.
 
Jul 19, 2013 at 5:29 PM Post #1,269 of 2,079
Yeah I expected it to come with that ugly logo!
 
Jul 20, 2013 at 2:00 AM Post #1,270 of 2,079
I got mine without the logo, not even on the CTRL keys. I always thought they came standard that way 
size]

 
Jul 20, 2013 at 2:57 AM Post #1,272 of 2,079
Yeah they custom order duckies pretty often
 
Jul 23, 2013 at 11:48 AM Post #1,274 of 2,079
Quote:
Grrr....didn't get in on any of the themed Topre CC's. I was really hoping for a Topre Skullsicle but I guess it's time for the classified.

I've been in on the CC caps before, but unless you get them at 'market price' it's not worth it IMO.  I've had a few in the past (now sold off, I was one of the nice ones who sold them for what I paid originally from CC himself) and they're very nice works of art, but some of the prices they fetch are madness!  Much like the $500 auction for the authentic red Cherry Esc. key...and then someone had GMK remake a huge batch of them (and they use the same molds and machines that Cherry used, as they purchased them)...they are indistinguishable from the originals, and now sell for $5 each 
tongue.gif

 
Aug 9, 2013 at 3:11 PM Post #1,275 of 2,079
Using the Black Window Ultimate, has MX Blues...waiting on Corsair to release their K70 in gunmetal with MX Browns
 

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