[hrklg01]

Hi!

My K1000’s driver

Magnets are rusty.

What can I do in this case? There's nothing wrong with the sound, but it's likely to sound different from the designed sound.

Thanks

Hello,
I'm very sorry that these very old (produced likely in 1991) became rusty mahhet system parts.
At that time the surface protection technology was not on the level like today.
And yes, that's the reason why MYSPHERE has gold plated nagnets and black iron parts.
Unluckily the system in K1000 was not designed to repais these parts.
But as long as the sound is not distorted, just leve it and store it in dry area.
Best regards Heinz

 

[Yggy]

Hi all. I had an issue with very slightly rattling bass on bass heavy tracks on the left monitor of my K1000. I thought I might have the issue with the driver membrane coming unglued from the assembly housing.

I took the cage apart but it looked fine, I put it back together, and the rattling was gone. The cages were not glued down although I could see some white glue residue on the edges so they were glued down at one point. I’m wondering if cage vibration was causing the rattling problem?

When I gently squeeze the cages together with my finger tips there is no movement on the right side and a little play on the left side top edge (the side that had the rattling)). I’m wondering if re-seating the cages fixed the vibration and that maybe I should re-glue the top edge of the left monitor cages to the assembly housing to remove any movement when I gently squeeze them together? My K1000 serial number is 06290, I attached a couple of photos. Thanks.

 

[Yggy]

I’m listening to my K1000 with a Stefan AudioArt balanced 4 pin XLR cable through a Shanling EM7 Streaming Music Centre, apparently designed by Shanling partly with the K1000 in mind. The trick with the EM7 is to stream to it. I’m using a Melco N1ZS Ex digital music library.

 

[hrklg01]

@Yggy
According to your very good photos you attached, the two typical failures are still present. 1st membrane gluing + 2nd loose foam.
The reason why it improves a but when squeezing it by the grid is ... Just squeezing. But this effect does not last long.
It should be repaired as many times are mentioned by a) reglueing by a white water resistant glue (+1/3 water solvent) and b) a new foam proper glued into.
BR heinz

 

[Yggy]

Hi Heinz, thank you very much for your diagnosis. The very slight rattling during bass heavy tracks completely disappeared after opening and closing the left housing to take the photos I posted.

I gently squeezed the cages around the edges after getting rid of the very slight rattling to see if the left earphone cage had more play than the right because when I opened the left side the cage wasn’t glued down so I wondered if the cage had been vibrating and when I put it back together it was more securely fitted. There was slightly more play on the top edge of the left side than on the right.

I can’t see any unsealing around the membrane glue and the foam on the other side looks to be in excellent condition. Do you think the glue has failed under the edges of the membrane even though it looks to be sealed on the top edges and foam will be turning to powder underneath even if it looks OK?

I’m guessing you can tell from the aged appearance of the glue on the top edges of the membrane and texture of the foam in the photo that both need to be replaced even though at the moment the sound is fine because eventually the problem I had will happen again or the foam will turn to powder and damage the drivers?

 

[Yggy]

The thing I love most about headphones is that they excel with different music genres and artists and the search for the perfect synergy has opened my ears to music I’ve never considered listening to before. With the K1000 it was Yo-Yo Ma’s Six Evolutions - Bach: Cello Suites.

 

[hrklg01]

@Yggy
Hello, I have to disagree! The gluing from the membrane is defective - just look at the blue marked arrows I did. Also the foam is loose!

Th

 

[hrklg01]

@Yggy
Both failures are always the main issues which cause the rubb@buzz of the K1K
To repair, the membrane has to be glued with a solvent of 50/50 water/white water resistant glue and to glue new foam out of 80ppm open poreous (reticulated) PU material in 6mm thickness into the iron part.
BR heinz

 

[Yggy]

I see! I understand why detailed photos are important for the diagnosis now. You have to look closely. Thank you Heinz, much appreciated. Now to decide whether I trust myself to do the un-glueing and re-glueing! I need to get a very fine artist’s brush to avoid messiness. I think I should OK with the foam.

 

[hrklg01]

If you just keep the foam inside, fix it on the outer circle by a white glue (same as used for wood, but a water resistant variant.
The membrane glueing is easiest to to (if no other tool is available) with tooth sticks. Just dip the stick into the glue and apply the left litte drop from the rear side between the driver frame and the membrane. You will see then from the front side, that the glue flow between the membrane and the frame. As soon as the glue became transparent again, the rapair is done!