[meomap]

My CV5 arrived today and I've been trying to charge it for some time now. I'm pretty sure it's been at least 5 hours (maybe even 6 by now) and the light still hasn't turned green. I don't know if I'm doing something wrong though as I'm a complete newbie with all this. I'm really sad that I can't try my andromeda s on them yet. I'm dreading having to send this back if there really is something wrong...

Does it have to be fully charged for it to turn on? I even tried connecting it to my laptop and tried turning it on too... nothing. The tube won't light up or anything either... ): I thought it'd at least have enough charge to turn on while connected to the laptop?

Connector properly connected? I never have that kind of problem before.

Next is kind of funny question: is the battery inside the CDM?

 

[meomap]

My CV5 arrived today and I've been trying to charge it for some time now. I'm pretty sure it's been at least 5 hours (maybe even 6 by now) and the light still hasn't turned green. I don't know if I'm doing something wrong though as I'm a complete newbie with all this. I'm really sad that I can't try my andromeda s on them yet. I'm dreading having to send this back if there really is something wrong...

Does it have to be fully charged for it to turn on? I even tried connecting it to my laptop and tried turning it on too... nothing. The tube won't light up or anything either... ): I thought it'd at least have enough charge to turn on while connected to the laptop?

I meant my CV5 also.

 

[gr8soundz]

My CV5 arrived today and I've been trying to charge it for some time now. I'm pretty sure it's been at least 5 hours (maybe even 6 by now) and the light still hasn't turned green. I don't know if I'm doing something wrong though as I'm a complete newbie with all this. I'm really sad that I can't try my andromeda s on them yet. I'm dreading having to send this back if there really is something wrong...

Does it have to be fully charged for it to turn on? I even tried connecting it to my laptop and tried turning it on too... nothing. The tube won't light up or anything either... ): I thought it'd at least have enough charge to turn on while connected to the laptop?

The rear light should at least be red while charging.

I always charge new devices to full before using them the first time (sometimes takes overnight) but a full charge AFAIK isn't required to use the Cv5.

When you turn on the amp the rear light should be amber (tube as well) and there's a bright blue led that turns off after about 20 seconds.

 

[nurie]

Connector properly connected? I never have that kind of problem before.

Next is kind of funny question: is the battery inside the CDM?

The rear light should at least be red while charging.

I always charge new devices to full before using them the first time (sometimes takes overnight) but a full charge AFAIK isn't required to use the Cv5.

When you turn on the amp the rear light should be amber (tube as well) and there's a bright blue led that turns off after about 20 seconds.

Thank you for the responses! There was an outlet on the kitchen island which doesn't seem like it had enough power to charge the CV5? It'd charge for a little bit and then the red light disappears. So I tried the wall outlet and it works, the red light stayed on for more than 5 minutes so from there I knew I was in the clear with that part at least. However, as I've mentioned in my first post... I've been charging it for over 4 hours and it still didn't turn green.

Anyway, this was important for me to note. I remember earlier when I was trying to charge it at the kitchen island outlet, I tried turning it on. There was a click right before you turn the volume knob on or off and for a split second, I saw it turn blue for a little bit and then it died again.

Fast forward 1-2 more hours, it still hasn't turned green (by now it's like around 5-6 hours). I was starting to wonder if there was something up with the charging cable. Anyway, I had another one upstairs so I plugged that in. Thank goodness it finally turned green after 1 more hour... I think I've charged it for around 7 hours actually in total (how much it was actually charging properly though, I do not know). I don't know if the cable is faulty in some way but in any case, I tried switching it on... still nothing. And then I remembered about earlier (the click) and I tried holding the knob mid-click and it FINALLY turned blue! Was super relieved, I don't live in the US and it would have been quite costly to send it back.. ):

So I'm guessing it has something to do with the knob or however it was assembled? I got no idea, but it's definitely the knob though.

So I've been testing it out with my Andromeda S. I need to mention though beforehand that when I connected it to the laptop at first, it was... honestly muddy... TwT; To be fair, it was still a tiny bit of an improvement as my laptop's the worst source I got so far. I continued to burn it in and decided to listen with my phone this time. A LOT better compared to my macbook pro, a lot of clarity and the soundstage got wider despite using Spotify. It was almost as good as when I listened to mastered songs through Tidal on the Microsoft Surface Laptop 2.

Of course, after burning it some more, it has now easily surpassed the MSL2 for everything except for harshness. The problem is that with the CV5, it's a bit harsh for me in comparison so I can't listen at a higher volume. I really want to try out the 6832 tube that I ordered along with this though, but I don't have the right screwdriver yet. I'm really hoping it'll round out the sound more without losing any of the details.

 

[davidmolliere]

Of course, after burning it some more, it has now easily surpassed the MSL2 for everything except for harshness. The problem is that with the CV5, it's a bit harsh for me in comparison so I can't listen at a higher volume. I really want to try out the 6832 tube that I ordered along with this though, but I don't have the right screwdriver yet. I'm really hoping it'll round out the sound more without losing any of the details.

I totally agree with you on the bit of harshness, this struck me when I got back to the 1Z alone, the CV5 is more upfront and I didn't care much for the 6111 tube... the 6832 is quite better in that respect, fuller sounding and rounder overall although it appears the 6BF7 is really the roundest of them all (found one on eBay and will send it to ALO to mount to PCB).

 

[gr8soundz]

I totally agree with you on the bit of harshness, this struck me when I got back to the 1Z alone, the CV5 is more upfront and I didn't care much for the 6111 tube... the 6832 is quite better in that respect, fuller sounding and rounder overall although it appears the 6BF7 is really the roundest of them all (found one on eBay and will send it to ALO to mount to PCB).

I may have to try the 6832. Should've ordered one along with the Cv5 but was being cautious about the extra heat Alo mentions. Cv5 with stock 6111 tube sounds very good but missing something.

Also read that the Sylvania 6021 was very good but it too is out of stock.

 

[davidmolliere]

Also read that the Sylvania 6021 was very good but it too is out of stock.

From what I have read the Sylvania seems to be more along the lines of the 6111 in terms of signature... 6BF7 is polarizing but the roundest presentation of them all... we'll see when it reaches me.

 

[nurie]

I totally agree with you on the bit of harshness, this struck me when I got back to the 1Z alone, the CV5 is more upfront and I didn't care much for the 6111 tube... the 6832 is quite better in that respect, fuller sounding and rounder overall although it appears the 6BF7 is really the roundest of them all (found one on eBay and will send it to ALO to mount to PCB).

Oh thank you! At least that sounds really promising. I'm looking forward to tomorrow then when I change out the tubes! That's good to know about the 6BF7 tube at least. I'll probably order it as a last resort if it's still too harsh for me. Do you have to pay to get ALO to mount it on a PCB? Though actually, now that I think about it, will they do this for anyone though even if they're charging haha...? I'm not sure if they'll only do this for people they're already familiar with (AKA long time customers).

I may have to try the 6832. Should've ordered one along with the Cv5 but was being cautious about the extra heat Alo mentions. Cv5 with stock 6111 tube sounds very good but missing something.

Also read that the Sylvania 6021 was very good but it too is out of stock.

I'll let you know about how much hotter it gets when I get to change it out to the 6832. Also an update I suppose on what I think about it compared to the 6111 in general since everyone has different opinions I guess. One more thrown in the mix should be helpful.

 

[jeffri]

It doesn't get that hot tbh, with any tube. If you are in air conditioned room, there's no worry. I don't really notice the extra heat when using either 6832 and 6BF7. As for sound, I currently enjoy the 6BF7 the most right now with Ether 2. But 6111 has advantage in that it has spacious and holographic soundstage that wasn't as apparent in either 6832 and 6BF7. 6832 is a fun one, warmer, bassier, impactful. 6BF7 is a sweet one, still warm, smooth but not as much impact though, bass is more linear.

 

[gr8soundz]

It doesn't get that hot tbh, with any tube. If you are in air conditioned room, there's no worry. I don't really notice the extra heat when using either 6832 and 6BF7. As for sound, I currently enjoy the 6BF7 the most right now with Ether 2. But 6111 has advantage in that it has spacious and holographic soundstage that wasn't as apparent in either 6832 and 6BF7. 6832 is a fun one, warmer, bassier, impactful. 6BF7 is a sweet one, still warm, smooth but not as much impact though, bass is more linear.

Good to know, thanks. If the 6111 is the most holographic I'll probably stick with it. Most decent tube amps already have a bit more warmth, impact, and bass so I tend to focus more on the improved soundstage.

 

[davidmolliere]

Received the Raytheon 6BF7, off to sending this to ALO now

 

[davidmolliere]

Oh thank you! At least that sounds really promising. I'm looking forward to tomorrow then when I change out the tubes! That's good to know about the 6BF7 tube at least. I'll probably order it as a last resort if it's still too harsh for me. Do you have to pay to get ALO to mount it on a PCB? Though actually, now that I think about it, will they do this for anyone though even if they're charging haha...? I'm not sure if they'll only do this for people they're already familiar with (AKA long time customers). I'll let you know about how much hotter it gets when I get to change it out to the 6832. Also an update I suppose on what I think about it compared to the 6111 in general since everyone has different opinions I guess. One more thrown in the mix should be helpful.

ALO charges 25$ to mount the tube on PCB, the tube itself was quite cheap under 8$ (The priciest thing is shipping for me as I am in Europe...). I guess they'll do that for anyone I guess I mean I asked if they could order me a 6BF7 and those are in short supply so JD advised me to get one on eBay which I did and then send them the tube.

I can tell you 6832 does not run that hot at least for my usage which is mainly low gain and moderate volume.

 

[nurie]

ALO charges 25$ to mount the tube on PCB, the tube itself was quite cheap under 8$ (The priciest thing is shipping for me as I am in Europe...). I guess they'll do that for anyone I guess I mean I asked if they could order me a 6BF7 and those are in short supply so JD advised me to get one on eBay which I did and then send them the tube.

I can tell you 6832 does not run that hot at least for my usage which is mainly low gain and moderate volume.

Okay, thank you! I'll most likely send some to them in bulk so it probably wont be for a while since they're $25 per tube, might as well get them all done at one time. That's good then actually! I'll try it with low gain first too.

Edit : Wow, it was a real struggle to remove AND put the circuit board back. Though I guess it's my first time doing anything like this so that's got a lot to do with it. I was also stressed out from worrying that I'd damage it in the process haha.

Anyway, it turned on and it's playing so I guess it was a success lol. Burning it in now. I can say already though that it's definitely slightly hotter than 6111. It's barely that much more so I can see why it's fairly negligible to mention, but it's there so I just want to say it in any case.

I'll comment again later to share my thoughts on the 6832 tube.

 

[gr8soundz]

@davidmolliere you were SO right about the interconnects! My stack sounds significantly better: cleaner bass, more extended treble, wider soundstage, and greater clarity and separation. Now the Cv5 with stock tube sounds much closer to my preference.

I knew good cabling makes a difference but thought such short runs wouldn't cause problems. Now I see why some Head-fiers use such beefy interconnects when stacking. I'd been swapping headphones and cables trying to correct the sound but swapping my Fiio interconnect for the Alo SXC22 did the trick.

Only problem now is what to do with the handful of interconnects I used to think were ok.

 

[davidmolliere]

@davidmolliere you were SO right about the interconnects! My stack sounds significantly better: cleaner bass, more extended treble, wider soundstage, and greater clarity and separation. Now the Cv5 with stock tube sounds much closer to my preference. I knew good cabling makes a difference but thought such short runs wouldn't cause problems. Now I see why some Head-fiers use such beefy interconnects when stacking. I'd been swapping headphones and cables trying to correct the sound but swapping my Fiio interconnect for the Alo SXC22 did the trick. Only problem now is what to do with the handful of interconnects I used to think were ok.

Yeah basically it's just as important as the cable to your IEM and I'd even say it seems to have even more impact. The interesting thing is that you can tweak the signature a bit with interconnect just like with IEM cables.
Honestly had it not been 29$ I probably wouldn't have purchased a pricey interconnect and I would have been so wrong! I have rarely stacked but I am glad for the CV5 as well, such a bargain at half price during BF...