iM716 DIY Pod Removal (aka, Podectomy)
Apr 24, 2008 at 8:34 AM Post #286 of 352
Quote:

Originally Posted by audiomagnate /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I'm a long time UM2 user, so the HD setting sounds wrong to me. Does the 47 ohm resistor duplicate the HD setting? I hate the pod for ergonomics reasons but would be happy with "bass" setting with a simple resistor. I'm guessing 20 to 30 ohms.


I posted some comments about what I heard with different resistors between 22 and 102 ohms, and also compared the effect different amplifiers have on the sound: Anyone using iM716 @ 100 Ohms? - Page 2 - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio

For some amps, 33 ohms is too low and it can be boomy or too much bass, with other amps 33 ohm sounds nice. For some amps 68-102 ohm still make bass, and others will have withdrawn mids and less dynamics/soundstage with the impedance too high.

Usually 47 ohms is the safest, working with all the amps I tried and having both good bass and detail, once I had a good seal with Shure black foam tips. I certainly wouldn't go below 33 ohms.
 
Apr 24, 2008 at 11:54 AM Post #287 of 352
Quote:

Originally Posted by audiomagnate /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I'm a long time UM2 user, so the HD setting sounds wrong to me. Does the 47 ohm resistor duplicate the HD setting? I hate the pod for ergonomics reasons but would be happy with "bass" setting with a simple resistor. I'm guessing 20 to 30 ohms.


FWIW, the link HeadphoneAddict posted was started by me, read my comments in there, as well as what HeadphoneAddict has said in there. He has posted some good info in there.
wink.gif


Then, here is my update since I first started my thread. I should probably post this there too:

I have since removed the pod, and replaced it with 48ohm matched TKD metal film resistors. I now find the iM716 even more detailed than before(HD mode), however the bass is slightly less than what I was hearing with the HD mode. The 48ohm resistor has been burnt in for more than 3 days non stop, and its still less bass than what I got in HD mode before. Its on the borderline of being not enough, but hey, I'm a semi bass head. I'd say its enough bass, but ANY LESS and I'd say it lacks bass. It does not go as deep or low as my Darths though... Tried it on Rob Zombies's Brickhouse 2000, and I can CONFIRM it cannot keep up with the Darths in the bass dept.
wink.gif
Maybe I'm expecting too much?
tongue.gif

Or maybe the D1 is now a bad choice after removing the pod? Who knows...
frown.gif


BTW, before I took out the pod, I measured the resistance and it was 100++ ohms and left/right had a diff. of about 4~5 ohms...
rolleyes.gif
Whoopteedoo Altec, way to go...
Now, after I depoded them, they are exactly 52.8 ohms on each side if IIRC.
Its being used with my D1. Doesn't sound as bad from my u107 now.
wink.gif


Again, these comments are a follow up from my previous comments, so please read my previous comments first to get an idea of where I'm coming from.
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Apr 24, 2008 at 8:45 PM Post #288 of 352
Quote:

Originally Posted by wrecked_porsche /img/forum/go_quote.gif
FWIW, the link HeadphoneAddict posted was started by me, read my comments in there, as well as what HeadphoneAddict has said in there. He has posted some good info in there.
wink.gif


Then, here is my update since I first started my thread. I should probably post this there too:

I have since removed the pod, and replaced it with 48ohm matched TKD metal film resistors. I now find the iM716 even more detailed than before(HD mode), however the bass is slightly less than what I was hearing with the HD mode. The 48ohm resistor has been burnt in for more than 3 days non stop, and its still less bass than what I got in HD mode before. Its on the borderline of being not enough, but hey, I'm a semi bass head. I'd say its enough bass, but ANY LESS and I'd say it lacks bass. It does not go as deep or low as my Darths though... Tried it on Rob Zombies's Brickhouse 2000, and I can CONFIRM it cannot keep up with the Darths in the bass dept.
wink.gif
Maybe I'm expecting too much?
tongue.gif

Or maybe the D1 is now a bad choice after removing the pod? Who knows...
frown.gif


BTW, before I took out the pod, I measured the resistance and it was 100++ ohms and left/right had a diff. of about 4~5 ohms...
rolleyes.gif
Whoopteedoo Altec, way to go...
Now, after I depoded them, they are exactly 52.8 ohms on each side if IIRC.
Its being used with my D1. Doesn't sound as bad from my u107 now.
wink.gif


Again, these comments are a follow up from my previous comments, so please read my previous comments first to get an idea of where I'm coming from.
smily_headphones1.gif



I couldn't get enough bass with any resistor when using silicone single or triple-flanges, until I switched to Shure black foam tips.
 
Apr 25, 2008 at 6:25 AM Post #289 of 352
Quote:

Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I couldn't get enough bass with any resistor when using silicone single or triple-flanges, until I switched to Shure black foam tips.


Yeah, funny thing is, using the default triflanges, I had more bass in HD mode (100++ ohms); and now that I've removed the pod and added the 48 ohms resistors (52.8 ohms total) I get less bass...
confused.gif


Maybe I should just use 100 ohm resistors instead?
rolleyes.gif
 
Apr 29, 2008 at 8:46 AM Post #291 of 352
Quote:

Originally Posted by shoejuice /img/forum/go_quote.gif
sorry to be a little noob from noobington but who would i pm about doing this for me and about how much would it cost?


If I recall, Drew at Moon Audio (see links to head-fi spnsors) will do a podectomy with resistor size of your choice installed, for under $50 shipped last I heard.
 
Apr 29, 2008 at 1:27 PM Post #292 of 352
Even better, there is a bright young Head-Fier (Germania) out in the Midwest who will do the 716 mod at nearly half the price. I stumbled upon this very fortunate situation quite by accident, and my 716s are on their way back as I write. So anyone who can't solder (like me) should PM her and see if Germania's interested in doing more 716 mods. This is one smart young college student (lost me in the tech chat during our transaction). In fact, I may end up with a Zune LOD too.
 
Apr 30, 2008 at 2:44 AM Post #293 of 352
Well, you can also PM DanT and see if he wants to do his special 3 switch pod, which allows 7 different impedances. Mine does 22, 33, 47, 55, 68, 80, and 102 ohm. Beware, shipping 2 ways to Canada and back can run $25-30 total, not including the podectomy/new-pod.
 
May 2, 2008 at 4:45 PM Post #294 of 352
Consider me among the converted of the reasons to have the AL716s modded via a podectomy (47ohms). Just received mine from Germania (she did an absolutely fantastic job) and plugged them into my Sony A816, ticked up the Clear Bass a bit, and it's much too good to be true. $20 for the phones and the mod...unbelievable. They won't replace my SA6s (mainly because of comfort and I like the smaller size of the SA6s for portability), but I must say, with a little bass EQ, these things are monsters. It's close, it really is. I alswo tried them with the Minibox, using the PtoS switch on and bass boost, and they really sound fine.

Anyone who has invested in the 716s, you owe it to yourself to get the mod done (or do it yourself). Wow. The price to sound quality ratio is off the charts. Not that I'm telling many Head-Fiers anything new, but I had no idea it would turn out so well. Thanks for whoever first thought of doing this mod.
 
May 5, 2008 at 5:20 PM Post #295 of 352
Thanks for the positive tstarn06!

Hey guys, I have discovered few things through experimenting.

The sound is better when you use a combination fo the Cardas Quad solder and the WBT silver solder. Do the initial Connection with the Cardas and then use the WBT to solidify.

The best sounding *resonably sized* resistors are these old metal film ones that I found in one of the labs at my university. They almost look like carbon film, but they aren't. The box was also marked with some japanese text that made it illegible to me. If you run into these, they work fantastic!

Also, I would individually cover each of the connections with either heat shrink or electrical tape. This makes the durability higher and keeps interference down. Then once all the connections are done, wrap them together to make a round barrel ( makes them look more stock).

It is my belief not to cut down the rubber gaussets. You can heatshrink over the entire pod and it will make the new connection much more durable over time.
 
May 13, 2008 at 4:53 AM Post #296 of 352
Looks like my IM716 is kicking the bucket. After a recable, I am losing sound on one channel. It comes on and off when I move the cable in and out. I opened it up and could not determine where the break is. With little way of knowing, I am back to Apple buds.
 
May 13, 2008 at 5:20 AM Post #297 of 352
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gino /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Looks like my IM716 is kicking the bucket. After a recable, I am losing sound on one channel. It comes on and off when I move the cable in and out. I opened it up and could not determine where the break is. With little way of knowing, I am back to Apple buds.


did you recable by soldering on to the flex pcb?

if so, the pad may have come loose, and you'll need to solder either to the smd resistor or the driver itself.
 
May 13, 2008 at 5:42 AM Post #299 of 352
Take a look here.

Depending on which pad came loose, you might need to solder to the driver. Try and use a multimeter to test the resistance from each pad to the side of the driver it's on, to see if there's still a connection.

If you get no reading on the red side (third pic), you'll need to solder to the driver iirc, while the blue side offers you the option of soldering to the side of the resistor connected to the pad.

If you go straight in you can probably get to the driver, which has sufficient solder on it to avoid needing to add more. Just try not to heat the driver for too long. My hands shook a bit too much, so now my '716s have a few little heat-melts where the tip came into contact with the casings. Works though.
 
May 25, 2008 at 5:37 AM Post #300 of 352
Hey guys,

Found out another thing to make them sound better!

Everyone knows the bass is pretty weak on these.

If you want more bass extention, USE A HIGH-END DIGITAL SOLDER on the GROUND LINE.

The 2/3rd Cardas Quad and 1/3 WBT on the right and left channels still seems to be ideal (to my ears at least).

Please enjoy!
 

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