[Beolab]

Just tested this for you, @Beolab
 : the XBass is indeed functional when the iTube2 is in Buffer (aka Direct, no volume pot in play) mode.  3D is, as well, FWIW.  Hope that helps.

After I tested that, I thought I'd play around a bit; I switched the iTube2 into preamp mode, maxed the volume on the iCAN SE (in 0DB gain mode) and used the iTube as a preamp.  Sounded different; more overtly tubey this way.  Something to play around with in the future.

Lots to try in the future: iDAC2/iDSD BL filter choices, iTube2 Tube+ choices, XBass/3D choices, which preamp to use choices...  So many combinations to try, the blessing and the curse of ifi gear.

I picked up an iRack to make this all easier to manage.  It's fantastic and does a great deal to minimize what felt like clutter to me.

Thanks for your time testing, i appreciate it alot , but the 3D holographic couldent sound any good on your headphones be ause it is developed for loudspeakers in comparison to the iDSD micro 3D Holographic version?

 

[loplop]

Thanks for your time testing, i appreciate it alot , but the 3D holographic couldent sound any good on your headphones be ause it is developed for loudspeakers in comparison to the iDSD micro 3D Holographic version?

I only checked to see if it was working, not to validate that it sounded good

You're correct in that it likely wouldn't sound good on headphones.

To be honest, I rarely use the 3D switch on my iDSD BL. I like it better on loudspeakers than headphones, generally speaking, and don't find that my LCDX/LCD3 benefit from it; I don't like the slight hardening of the treble and thinning of timbre that occurs with ifi's 3D implementation on the iDSD, and the soundstage on those headphones doesn't fatigue me, anyway.

I do like the 3D switch on some of my less expensive headphones, though, especially my B&W p5s2. I just don't use those much amp'd.

 

[Beolab]

Yes i feel the same way about the 3D, but it could be nice on some acoustic tracks , but the Xbass for Loudspeaker function did sound good then?

 

[loplop]

Yes i feel the same way about the 3D, but it could be nice on some acoustic tracks , but the Xbass for Loudspeaker function did sound good then?

I only checked to see if it was working, not to validate that it sounded good

Of note, the behavior of the iTube is different from iDSD Micro; on that unit, in direct mode, 3D and XBass don't function.

 

[loplop]

I often spend part of Saturday reading and semi-actively listening to music. So today I substituted the iTube2>iCAN SE for the iCAN Pro I'm normally using. Listening to my favorite Saturday headphone, my LCD3's.

SET: somewhat softer and polite, deep soundstage, rolled off at both frequency extremes (most notably, less bass) but very even across most of the audio band. Pleasant, shines on some types of music.

Classic: faster, more detailed, extended at both ends with very good bass quality & depth, very extended in the treble, wide soundstage. Most hi-fi sounding. A bit too sharp in the treble for me right now, although with everything new in the chain except the DAC and headphones (including the new ifi cables from the iRACK) I'm hopeful that might work its way out, as this mode has the most broad capabilities.

Push-pull: bass isn't as taut as Classic, but is very full, deep, warm, and fun. Highs are just a bit muted. Extremely rich tube harmonics and instrumental timbres. Frequency response seems a bit uneven compared to the other two modes. Really a fun listen, though, I ended up using this a lot.

Interestingly, the iTube2 is more like "flavors" of Tube sound vs the iCAN Pro, which is more like different amps in that there is a mode that seems to pair best with each headphone with the Pro, and the other two are generally a compromise. With the iTube2, it's more like selecting a flavor.

One other note: classic is loudest, followed by push-pull, followed by SET. That seems to suggest classic has the least feedback, then PP, then SET. But that confuses me, as I wouldn't expect the sound to be "flavored" in the manner I laid out if that were so (classic would then be most feedback, SET the least)... so is something else changing here, ifi?

Very early in break in, so YMMV and I may flip flop as I hear more genres and styles of music through it.

 

[Topspin70]

Fantastic summary. Thank u for sharing. Very much in line with my impressions after a very brief listen at the store. Push-pull and Classic are probably what I will buy it for.

I often spend part of Saturday reading and semi-actively listening to music. So today I substituted the iTube2>iCAN SE for the iCAN Pro I'm normally using. Listening to my favorite Saturday headphone, my LCD3's.

SET: somewhat softer and polite, deep soundstage, rolled off at both frequency extremes (most notably, less bass) but very even across most of the audio band. Pleasant, shines on some types of music.

Classic: faster, more detailed, extended at both ends with very good bass quality & depth, very extended in the treble, wide soundstage. Most hi-fi sounding. A bit too sharp in the treble for me right now, although with everything new in the chain except the DAC and headphones (including the new ifi cables from the iRACK) I'm hopeful that might work its way out, as this mode has the most broad capabilities.

Push-pull: bass isn't as taut as Classic, but is very full, deep, warm, and fun. Highs are just a bit muted. Extremely rich tube harmonics and instrumental timbres. Frequency response seems a bit uneven compared to the other two modes. Really a fun listen, though, I ended up using this a lot.

Interestingly, the iTube2 is more like "flavors" of Tube sound vs the iCAN Pro, which is more like different amps in that there is a mode that seems to pair best with each headphone with the Pro, and the other two are generally a compromise. With the iTube2, it's more like selecting a flavor.

One other note: classic is loudest, followed by push-pull, followed by SET. That seems to suggest classic has the least feedback, then PP, then SET. But that confuses me, as I wouldn't expect the sound to be "flavored" in the manner I laid out if that were so (classic would then be most feedback, SET the least)... so is something else changing here, ifi?

Very early in break in, so YMMV and I may flip flop as I hear more genres and styles of music through it.

 

[kaushama]

I got my iTube 2 . It takes a lag of 10 to 15 min to output audio after switching on. Is that normal?

 

[mtruong34]

Could anyone comment on the below:
 
-  From iFi's description "There is nothing like it. You can put the micro iTube2 before a solid-state preamp and another one after it, creating the effect of tubing the whole audio chain."  Anyone owning both can comment if there might be any significant benefit of daisy-chaining the mk1 with the mk2. Reason I ask is that I currently own iTube1, and would be greater incentive to get the ITube2 if the pairing would produce nice synergy.
 
-  The iTube2 comes with the nice iPower 15V. I also read in the user's manual that the iTube2 can be run off 12V car battery power. So was wondering if a quality 12V LPS would be OK since many audiophiles might have 12V LPS but very few 15V LPS.
 
Thanks in advance.

 

[DonD]

  @iFi 
 
I have been told it will be available in Switzerland only in March, is that true? Is it only my country or all Europe?
Thanks

 
@iFi: it's unusual that you don't answer...
Thanks

 

[loplop]

I got my iTube 2 . It takes a lag of 10 to 15 min to output audio after switching on. Is that normal?

You are correct in that there is a delay after startup; this allows the heaters of the tube to bring it up to operating temperature and somewhat stabilize the tube before applying signal.  During warmup, the small LED on top will be red to indicate it is in warmup mode.  I don't think mine took 15 minutes, but I wasn't paying close attention as I like to allow tube equipment time to warm up and stabilize before listening, anyway.  When you have a moment, use a stopwatch to time your delay.  I'll compare with mine.  "10 to 15 minutes" is too vague to do a comparison.
 

  -  The iTube2 comes with the nice iPower 15V. I also read in the user's manual that the iTube2 can be run off 12V car battery power. So was wondering if a quality 12V LPS would be OK since many audiophiles might have 12V LPS but very few 15V LPS.
 
Thanks in advance.

Yes, of course, any 12V DC will be fine.  Whether the LPS is better, or not, you will have to decide (and let us know  Sadly, I only have a 9V "audiophile" LPS so I don't have anything to compare it to.
 
Speaking of power, @iFi audio : I would like ifi to produce a power supply unit with multiple taps, so I don't have to have so many wall warts plugged in, and perhaps allowing better performance.  For something like the chain I run iDSD BL>iTube2>iCAN SE I have 2, and if I add my iUSB3 I'd need a 3rd (which I don't have at the spot I listen to this mini stack most often).  Something like an iPower+ from my iCAN Pro, with multiple taps for multiple ifi units.  One iPower+ powering the iUSB3/iTube2/iCAN SE would be really nice and cut down on clutter.  Thoughts?

 

[Cormorant]

I got my iTube 2 . It takes a lag of 10 to 15 min to output audio after switching on. Is that normal?

 
Definitely not normal. 
 
I haven't timed my iTube 2 startup, but I would guess less than 1 minute.
 
P.S. iTube 2 rocks!

 

[iFi audio]

I got my iTube 2 . It takes a lag of 10 to 15 min to output audio after switching on. Is that normal?

 
This process should take between 45 and 60 seconds, 10-15 minutes suggests that a tube is out of spec or has been damaged in transit.

 

[kaushama]

Thank you

It should be 15 secs LOL My mistake and a typo!

 

[iFi audio]

The valve giant just got bigger… - part 1/5
 
Introduction
 
The very first iFi Audio iTube was designed to do several things, but to make the music more enjoyable was its main goal. There weren’t and even today there still aren’t many valve-based buffers. The iTube was able to share that valve goodness with listeners no matter the setup. It was and still is capable of finding its way in nearly every system out there.
 

 
 

Our <$400 iTube has also found its home in very expensive, $100,000 setups and with a truly remarkable outcome, that’s the feedback we got thus far from our deeply involved listeners. Happy with the sonic rewards, one simple question was in order; can we make this very special product even better?

 
It took us a while, but we’re confident that we’ve pulled another rabbit out of the hat. The iTube2 is better than ever. What has changed? Well, lots of things, but the key functionality – vividness injection for any system – has remained and seen further refinement.
 
 
iTube2 technologies

1. High-End Direct Tube Buffer
2. High-End Tube Pre-Amplifier
3. Direct-Coupled Active Bias Tube circuit
4. Harmonic Envelope Control
5. 3D Holographic+ Matrix for Speakers®
6. X-Bass+ Correction®
7. Analogue Volume Control
8. 0 or 9dB Selectable Gain

 
 
Improvements over original iTube:

1. New direct-coupled, active bias circuit eliminates coupling capacitors for purest tube sound
2. New power system lowers noise and is compatible with 12V car audio systems (among other 12V DC systems)
3. Harmonic Envelope Control added
4. X-Bass+ matrix added
5. More than double class A bias in the output stage allows better drive of low loads
6. Noise and distortion has been lowered around 2x (6dB) and 6x respectively
7. Elna Silmic capacitors, TDK C0G capacitors, Panasonic ECPU, MELF resistors

 
 
Why a Tube? Because of the Magic of Tubes!
 

Get the full bodied, lushness and magic of luxurious tube sound. The vacuum tube and the single-ended, pure Class A circuit combine to offer an unprecedented level of realism and authenticity to deliver a “living in the moment” listening experience. 
 

 

The iTUBE2 allows any system to benefit from a major injection of Class A NOS tube magic from the esteemed General Electric 5670.
By eliminating the coupling capacitors both between stages and on the output the iTube 2’s sound is not colored by capacitor artifacts, but delivers tube magic pure.
 

 
One of the most important aspects of every valves based audio equipment are tubes themselves. In case of iTube2, we pushed ourselves to find one of the very best double triodes – General Electric 5670 JAN. Our latest headphone amplifier - the Pro iCan - is also loaded with a pair of these. And so are the AMR 777 SE machines too. 

Later we will discuss the GE 5670 a bit more as well as the importance of Harmonic Envelope Control.
 
Stay tuned!

 

[loplop]

Fun stuff, thanks @iFi audio .  Looking forward to learning more about the Harmonic Envelope Control; in particular, I'd love to see some technical specifics on what you are doing with the tube circuit.  My iTube2 isn't fully broken in yet, so I'm still only casually listening here and there, but I can say it sure doesn't sound like you're just modifying feedback level.  Per my thoughts above:
One other note: classic is loudest, followed by push-pull, followed by SET. That seems to suggest classic has the least feedback, then PP, then SET. But that confuses me, as I wouldn't expect the sound to be "flavored" in the manner I laid out if that were so (classic would then be most feedback, SET the least)... so is something else changing here, ifi? 

 
Looking forward to learning more about this enjoyable little addition to an ifi stack.  Since I'm still in the break-in mode, I haven't really done any serious listening with the iTube2 in vs out of the chain (straight into iCAN SE); that said, I find no real reason to do so, as I'm enjoying the ability to subtly alter the flavor of the music.  As with anything in audio: recording quality/sonics and mood are never quite the same, so it's quite useful to be able to fiddle with the sound a bit to get to a result that tricks my brain more easily into believing it is "real."  I am finding that between the use of HQPlayer feeding an iDSD BL or iDAC2, the filter choices on the ifi DACs, the iTube, and an occasional touch of XBass on the iCAN SE, I can achieve a result that makes me forget gear and simply listen.  One would think all the permutations might drive one's nervosa batty, but I'm not finding that; these options are not polar opposites, more like subtle differences of the same basic flavor profile.  Once you develop a feel for what they bring to the table, you can quickly adjust within the first minute or so of a recording, and then just sit back and enjoy. 
 
It isn't a purist approach, but it can be an enjoyable one.