[paggio]

The firmware download page for DX300/320 on ibasso.com....is not showing any downloads???....maybe a new firmware being prepped?

 

[railwaymangb]

My mistake.....it's all working now.....no new firmware

 

[Beh0lder]

I've got a problem with side buttons and Amazon Music - they stopped working. Mango player and others are fine. Any ideas?

 

[Beh0lder]

Whoops double

 

[samandhi]

I've got a problem with side buttons and Amazon Music - they stopped working. Mango player and others are fine. Any ideas?

Sometimes I have this issue where the buttons don't relinquish to the active app. In other words it is like they latch onto the first app that you use. And sometimes even closing the app doesn't do it (it will just reopen the app). Though I haven't really had this issue near as much with the DX300, it was (a lot) more on the DX160. Have you tried (as a test) rebooting and not opening any app except Amazon Music?

 

[Beh0lder]

I do it every time since I power off the DAP after every session due to lack of time. I'm considering a reinstall however Amazon's godawful download management which required manual queueing of tracks is holding me back.

 

[Dream49days]

BTW anyone with the amp14 on dx300 have the issue that the max volume is significantly less than on the dx320\than with the amp11mk2.
Not that I'm complaining as it gives more granular control for items which I mainly use it on but it might potentially affect demoing harder to drive headphones

Yes, I got same issue. I try to factory reset, still not solve the problem. I try to plug into Line output to test, don't sound like 1.8 vrms power. But I like the sound quality of amp 14, so I will use max 100 volume Low gain to drive my moondrop blessing 2 . Hopefully, Ibasso next firmware can fix this issue.

 

[samandhi]

Yes, I got same issue. I try to factory reset, still not solve the problem. I try to plug into Line output to test, don't sound like 1.8 vrms power. But I like the sound quality of amp 14, so I will use max 100 volume Low gain to drive my moondrop blessing 2 . Hopefully, Ibasso next firmware can fix this issue.

If you are comparing the volume to the Amp11.2 card, the difference is that Amp14 LO is unamped (a true LO), whereas the LO of Amp11.2 is not a true LO and is still passed through the amplifier section. It would be more accurate to compare Amp12 and Amp14 LO as they are both true LO.

 

[Maxx134]

fyi, Bloom Audio and Headphones.com have the Amp 14 up for pre-order

I'm pretty sure the amp14 will sound better than both stock amp12, amp13, and the amp11 that's in the dx320.
Only moded units of each bridge the gap.

Pre-order sold out & back ordered.
I was tempted to just order in on AliExpress, but I don't think it will come any faster than waiting for dealers in US, because the Chinese new year holidays will soon start. Who knows.
I read that Chinese New Year starts Jan 22nd, and continues for the first 7 days which are public holiday, from January 21st to January 27th, so I would expect stock delays with all the Chinese manufacturers.

 

[rmkjr]

I'm pretty sure the amp14 will sound better than both stock amp12, amp13, and the amp11 that's in the dx320.
Only moded units of each bridge the gap.

Pre-order sold out & back ordered.
I was tempted to just order in on AliExpress, but I don't think it will come any faster than waiting for dealers in US, because the Chinese new year holidays will soon start. Who knows.
I read that Chinese New Year starts Jan 22nd, and continues for the first 7 days which are public holiday, from January 21st to January 27th, so I would expect stock delays with all the Chinese manufacturers.

Been enjoying it so far, mine came in today.

Compared to stock amp 12, it’s what you’d expect. More full, a bit relaxed, and some bloom in the lower frequencies. Amp 12 is cleaner, a bit punchier, and maybe a bit dryer. Amp 14 has some of its tube come through.

They did a decent job with emi interference. It’s definitely not gone while the Wi-Fi is on, but it sounds more like a vinyl crackle/pop occasionally than typical RF noise. With the radios off it’s gone. Haven’t noticed any microphonic issues.

There’s a noise floor, but not at normal to high listening volumes to my ears. Only with IEMs like the Zen Pro, pausing the music, and cranking the volume.

Power wise it does all my IEMs (in the sig) quite well on low or medium gain. The planar headphones I have to have on high near 85%. It also greatly improved the Kinera Nanna’s mid-bass and lower. Normally I can only use those on the RS6 as they didn’t agree with the amp 12 at all.

The line out is as good as amp 12 if not better.

The volume control is interesting. It almost sounds like a stepped attentuator, but the chip data sheet doesn’t really look like it is.

I think if I was only going to pick one, or didn’t want to switch often and didn’t have other DAPs to swap between, I’d probably stick with the amp 12. The interference, battery life reduction, and less shock resistance when bringing it out means I wouldn’t want it being the only portable. What this has achieved is stayed off a C9 purchase while letting me get some tube goodness around the house or on the deck when I’m away from the Xduoo 604 at the desk. I don’t really like swapping cards a lot with those tiny screw threads, so it will probably be the portable tube. Then the Hiby or the Sony when I want solid state.

I am wondering a bit if a layer of Kapton and then a layer of copper or faraday tape could further reduce the emi. That said, I’m not sure if that would fit, or if it is coming from the connector vs the surroundings.

 

[samandhi]

I think if I was only going to pick one, or didn’t want to switch often and didn’t have other DAPs to swap between, I’d probably stick with the amp 12. The interference, battery life reduction, and less shock resistance when bringing it out means I wouldn’t want it being the only portable. What this has achieved is stayed off a C9 purchase while letting me get some tube goodness around the house or on the deck when I’m away from the Xduoo 604 at the desk. I don’t really like swapping cards a lot with those tiny screw threads, so it will probably be the portable tube. Then the Hiby or the Sony when I want solid state.

I don't have the Amp14 card yet (waiting for shipping issues to die down a bit), but I like to switch between Amp11.2, Amp12, and Amp13 frequently. I have head gear that synergizes with each one fantastically. As for those little screws, I never put them back in. I use the TPU case that was provided with the Amp13 (probably the same one that comes with the Amp14 card), and it is so well fitting that there is no way the card can move in any direction. This makes swapping much easier for me. I simply turn off the device, take the case off, swap the card, put the case back on, and power it back on. "Easy cheezy" IMO.

I am wondering a bit if a layer of Kapton and then a layer of copper or faraday tape could further reduce the emi. That said, I’m not sure if that would fit, or if it is coming from the connector vs the surroundings.

I think that @Whitigir has mentioned that mods like this DO indeed work over on the DX320 thread, if I am not mistaken. It seems as though the noise you get is coming from the Nutube module itself, rather than the connector to the PCB (though I could be mistaken on this also).

I think you could get it to fit, though I would worry more about overheating of the module itself, since there is no cooling syncs or anything else other than airflow (and not a lot of that in the current setup).

I read that Chinese New Year starts Jan 22nd, and continues for the first 7 days which are public holiday, from January 21st to January 27th, so I would expect stock delays with all the Chinese manufacturers.

I think you are right, but it seems to me from ordering stuff around this time in the past, that a lot of these companies take the entire month off for the holiday.

 

[Whitigir]

I don't have the Amp14 card yet (waiting for shipping issues to die down a bit), but I like to switch between Amp11.2, Amp12, and Amp13 frequently. I have head gear that synergizes with each one fantastically. As for those little screws, I never put them back in. I use the TPU case that was provided with the Amp13 (probably the same one that comes with the Amp14 card), and it is so well fitting that there is no way the card can move in any direction. This makes swapping much easier for me. I simply turn off the device, take the case off, swap the card, put the case back on, and power it back on. "Easy cheezy" IMO.

I think that @Whitigir has mentioned that mods like this DO indeed work over on the DX320 thread, if I am not mistaken. It seems as though the noise you get is coming from the Nutube module itself, rather than the connector to the PCB (though I could be mistaken on this also).

I think you could get it to fit, though I would worry more about overheating of the module itself, since there is no cooling syncs or anything else other than airflow (and not a lot of that in the current setup).


I think you are right, but it seems to me from ordering stuff around this time in the past, that a lot of these companies take the entire month off for the holiday.

Talking about mod to reduce emi from the tube amp modules ?

 

[rmkjr]

As for those little screws, I never put them back in. I use the TPU case that was provided with the Amp13 (probably the same one that comes with the Amp14 card), and it is so well fitting that there is no way the card can move in any direction. This makes swapping much easier for me. I simply turn off the device, take the case off, swap the card, put the case back on, and power it back on. "Easy cheezy" IMO.

Very good tip! I might have to give that a try.

Talking about mod to reduce emi from the tube amp modules ?

Yeah, specifically amp 14. Emi noise is pretty well tamed, but I was thinking maybe a layer of Kapton followed by a layer of copper or faraday tape, either on both side of the nutube or even fully on both sides of the whole amp module, might reduce it even further. I wasn't sure if I could get it to fit back into the player after what would be an extra 4 layers of tape, and then to @samandhi point, the added thermal insulation might have some heat consequences to the tube. I'm also not sure it would do too much to reduce. When I had some emi issues with my PAW S1, it seemed like most came in through the USB cable. So I am thinking it may be similary coming in over the amp modules connector to the player and the tube is picking it up over the traces vs through the air. Would definitley be curious to your opinion if you've experimented with amp 13 or 14 and had any good results!

 

[samandhi]

Very good tip! I might have to give that a try.


Yeah, specifically amp 14. Emi noise is pretty well tamed, but I was thinking maybe a layer of Kapton followed by a layer of copper or faraday tape, either on both side of the nutube or even fully on both sides of the whole amp module, might reduce it even further. I wasn't sure if I could get it to fit back into the player after what would be an extra 4 layers of tape, and then to @samandhi point, the added thermal insulation might have some heat consequences to the tube. I'm also not sure it would do too much to reduce. When I had some emi issues with my PAW S1, it seemed like most came in through the USB cable. So I am thinking it may be similary coming in over the amp modules connector to the player and the tube is picking it up over the traces vs through the air. Would definitley be curious to your opinion if you've experimented with amp 13 or 14 and had any good results!

@Whitigir would definitely be the person to talk to about this. He has created/improved almost all (if not all) of the amp cards with his work.

While I have no proof, nor have I experimented beyond what specifically causes the issue, I can say that as long as you have the WiFi turned off, you will not get this interference (IME anyhow). That alone makes me believe that it is not coming through the connector (though it still could be proven to be so). I mean, you have all this power floating around (2 batteries, a BT module), but WiFi is the only signal that causes the interference? Again, I could be totally wrong because I have absolutely no scientific data either way (it is totally a logical guess).

On the other hand, the unique pattern the WiFi puts off might also be why there are no noises picked with any other power or (potential) noise makers.. The question then becomes, is the interference coming from the WiFi module itself or the antenna? If it is the antenna, could you then isolate the module from the system, or is it a direct conductive issue on the PCB???

Having said all of that, it would be nice to see others working on a (potential) mod that will work with little work, and even less potential to damage the unit.

 

[Maxx134]

@Whitigir would definitely be the person to talk to about this. He has created/improved almost all (if not all) of the amp cards with his work

Yes, from my experience he has way superior knowledge in specific parts and specializes in "synergy", so as to tune and achieve a desired signature. He even created shielding techniques for the tube.

In terms of upgrading amp14, I wonder as don't see any significant space to modify, mainly just SMD parts could be upgraded, so it'sunquestionable to see if it can reach the level of a moded amp12, or an amp upgraded with MUSE chips.

Maybe if it was also upgraded with high energy rubycon SMD film caps, that would definitely help, but price would be high. So many SMD choices can be selected.
Maybe Muse or ADA chips, but then the battery life would take a much greater toll than already mentioned.
Regardless, I do see some potential in amp14, and a nice choice for balanced, but IMO out the box will not replace amp12.
The dx300 can still hold its own with an upgraded amp and with rooting and with debloating and with processor tweaks and Neutron tweaks..
I had the 320, and you can still prefer a 300 with the right synergy. For instance having the Jewel or Kahn IEM will give a great sound on the 300 with Neutron and a modded amp ...