iBasso D10. .UPDATES 1st page, with Current Opamp Choices by HiFlight . . . images page 1, 12, 13, 14, 15, 21, 71
May 12, 2009 at 1:43 AM Post #2,086 of 4,153
Quote:

Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hey, what do you want?? LOL, yeah that one. It is nicely printed. :^)

I agree an inclusion of rolling and how to do it should be requisite.

On another note, I am listening with the AD743 and AD8616's on the output and the sound is incredible. A black, black background, open and dynamic. Getting fed by WAV or lossless from my iRiver H140 with the 120gb drive is a true treat. I have even been comparing to my Woo 6 (highly modified) and I am not left wanting for sound quality.

I didn't know it but do now, the traces on the D10 are gold plated. My preamp from Quicksilver, many years ago, the Full Function Pre, had gold plated traces.



I have said recently that my D10 with AD743/AD8616 reminds me of my Pico DAC-only feeding RSA P-51 Mustang. What do you think?

I do think the sound is now fantastic, almost as good as my Amphora and SP Sq Wave XL, but still a notch below the WA6.
 
May 12, 2009 at 2:03 AM Post #2,087 of 4,153
As I noted a few pages back I have changed out the capacitors to Black Gate nonpolar. The sound quality change was worth it. Was the stock amp/dac excellent, yes. But I have to admit the Black Gates work very well in the D10.
 
May 12, 2009 at 5:40 AM Post #2,088 of 4,153
Excellent how to disassemble/reassemble. However, I would never touch a circuit board unless I'm ESD strapped to ground.

ux_a08053000ux0040_ux_n.jpg


Quote:

Originally Posted by jetlaged /img/forum/go_quote.gif
How to dissasemble and reasemble the D10 without trauma.

Front of the Unit is the side which has the volume control knob.

Caution:
1). Ensure that you have grounded your fingers before touching any board mounted object. Do not touch board pins or circuitry with fingers or with metallic objects to prohibit electrical damage due to static electricity.
2). Do not over torque the faceplate retaining screws as the housing threads are easily stripped.

Dissasembly;
After removing the front four faceplate securing screws, (on the volume knob side) push on the coax receptacle at the rear end with finger, this slides the main board out far enough until it can be gripped by the SIDES between thumb and forefinger to gently pull the main board further out, about 3~4 cm, enough to acccess the three IC's only.
Don't pull on the volume knob to remove the board, this will stress the volume potentiometer (pot), and the volume knob might pull off it's mount shaft, it's only fixed with a dab of glue.

Removal and Orientation of opamp (1 of), and Buffers (2 of) in DIP soctkets;
Use long nose pliers only on the sides of the opamp and buffer IC boards to wiggle and pull the opamps and buffers loose, lift the IC's vertically to remove from DIP boards, or use a non metallic object to gently pry and symmetrically lift the IC's clear of their respective DIP sockets.
For correct orientation of the IC amp and the DIP socket line up the little "half circle" that's printed on the side of each IC amp board, and on the recipient DIP socket there's a little "half circle" that is missing from one side of the DIP socket.

Reassembly;
When sliding the main board back into its receptacle ensure that the plugs and respective cutaways on the rear-end are correctly lined up so that the LED's and USB plug are correctly seated and that the main board doesn't protrude a tiny bit at the front which will prevent the front faceplate from seating correctly.

If you're struggling to realign the rear faceplate cut-outs with board components loosen the rear faceplate retaining screws just enough so that the rear faceplate is loose, seat the board and rear faceplate correctly and re-tighten the rear faceplate screws. Re-align the front faceplate, refit the screws.


and I now await the howls of derision for this post as it's of no use at "The End"



 
May 13, 2009 at 2:31 PM Post #2,089 of 4,153
Quote:

Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
As I noted a few pages back I have changed out the capacitors to Black Gate nonpolar. The sound quality change was worth it. Was the stock amp/dac excellent, yes. But I have to admit the Black Gates work very well in the D10.


A maxxed D10 seems to be a fascinating idea.
Can you post a pict of your Black Gates cap mod?
Hard to get any BG since the produciton is stopped.

What is about OS-CON SA?
Shall be fine for digital power supply.

Are the caps you changed (470 and 1500 uF) for the analog or digital part or for both?
 
May 13, 2009 at 7:01 PM Post #2,090 of 4,153
Sigh, a crash ate my post and now my hand hurt to much to repeat it, please exxcsue the shortness of this post, but RSI claims my writing ability. In short: If I look up several recommended opamps here at sites like Farnell Schweiz, I always seem to get a multitude of chip variants with the names posted here. Which one does one need? An example would be to go to above website and type Ad8616 into the product search field on top. The amount of chips with a similar image and same name is just totally confusing me.
 
May 13, 2009 at 11:57 PM Post #2,091 of 4,153
perhaps you should read this thread; its covered in detail
 
May 14, 2009 at 12:00 AM Post #2,092 of 4,153
Quote:

Originally Posted by rhw /img/forum/go_quote.gif
A maxxed D10 seems to be a fascinating idea.
Can you post a pict of your Black Gates cap mod?
Hard to get any BG since the produciton is stopped.

What is about OS-CON SA?
Shall be fine for digital power supply.

Are the caps you changed (470 and 1500 uF) for the analog or digital part or for both?



these are just in the power rail if I remember correctly; at that stage he hadnt modded the coupling caps. and BTW blackgate are actually fairly easy to get still if you searcg well; you can get them at percyaudio.com or partsconnexion as well as 'the loft'
 
May 14, 2009 at 1:21 AM Post #2,093 of 4,153
The OS-Con work in the digital but I used all Black Gate nonpolar. I replaced all the electrolytics with nonpolar and even bypassed with small value nonpolar HiQ Black Gates. It is a very, very tight fit and you have to look at what can be moved, as the battery can be moved allowing for more room where the larger caps were and the 470uf caps to be replaced need to be shoved forward some. You can mess up the circuit and it all takes a little time and patients.
 
May 14, 2009 at 1:36 AM Post #2,094 of 4,153
Quote:

Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The OS-Con work in the digital but I used all Black Gate nonpolar. I replaced all the electrolytics with nonpolar and even bypassed with small value nonpolar HiQ Black Gates. It is a very, very tight fit and you have to look at what can be moved, as the battery can be moved allowing for more room where the larger caps were and the 470uf caps to be replaced need to be shoved forward some. You can mess up the circuit and it all takes a little time and patients.


That spelling works for us medical people, but everyone else needs patience...
 
May 14, 2009 at 1:44 AM Post #2,095 of 4,153
Well what do you expect after 12 plus hours in ICU today? :^) I didn't think it looked quiet rite.
 
May 14, 2009 at 1:55 AM Post #2,096 of 4,153
Quote:

Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Well what do you expect after 12 plus hours in ICU today? :^) I didn't think it looked quiet rite.


Now you have Rite-Aid pharmacy on your mind...
 
May 14, 2009 at 2:10 AM Post #2,098 of 4,153
Quote:

Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The OS-Con work in the digital but I used all Black Gate nonpolar. I replaced all the electrolytics with nonpolar and even bypassed with small value nonpolar HiQ Black Gates. It is a very, very tight fit and you have to look at what can be moved, as the battery can be moved allowing for more room where the larger caps were and the 470uf caps to be replaced need to be shoved forward some. You can mess up the circuit and it all takes a little time and patients.


I was very pleased with the performance of the BG non-polars in my D1, but as I am now using my D10 for lots of testing, I decided to leave the stock caps, otherwise I wouldn't know whether the caps or the opamps were influencing the sound.
 
May 14, 2009 at 2:23 AM Post #2,099 of 4,153
Quote:

Originally Posted by HiFlight /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I was very pleased with the performance of the BG non-polars in my D1, but as I am now using my D10 for lots of testing, I decided to leave the stock caps, otherwise I wouldn't know whether the caps or the opamps were influencing the sound.


I totally agree. The sound of stock is fine, well more than fine, it is excellent.
 
May 14, 2009 at 2:26 AM Post #2,100 of 4,153
Quote:

Originally Posted by jamato8 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I totally agree. The sound of stock is fine, well more than fine, it is excellent.


I think the stock D10 sounds like a Predator with an noticeable DAC upgrade.
 

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