[bik2101]

I've been doing a bit of research into making ICs. There seems to be quite a range in prices for solder. I was just wondering if the expensive ones are worth it? Specifically the cardas quad eutectic. I've seen a lot of people are using it but can anyone say there is a clear difference between the more "premium" solder vs the cheaper stuff out there? And more importantly, is the price worth it?

 

[crapback]

Sorry, I haven't used the stuff myself. Now I'm thinking about getting some though as I just ordered a starving student amp kit. It sounds simple enough. It should just have slightly higher conductivity than 63/37. I really have no idea if a slightly better solder could have any noticeable effect on a connection.

Maybe the electron's just feel better flowing thru joint knowing there's silver in it. Just picture an electron with it's pinky raised high.

 

[Uncle Erik]

The important part of solder is that it makes a solid physical connection. I've tried a few of the futzy ones, but I consistently get good joints from regular 60/40 Kester rosin core. Radio Shack makes good solder, as well, but I like buying big spools at the local shop. Nothing I've tried flows better and is as easy to work with.

 

[Tomo]

Any words on Lead-Free solder?

I am very familiar with the problems associated with these. I attended a conference for this issue few years back. I understand the issue of iron tip corrosion and high-temperature flow were quite serious at the time. I understand high speed recovery iron heaters and solder alloy improvement were topic of that day. I know iron-heater thing is already solved. (10-20 sec powerup! You can buy those now.) Solder alloy improvement, I saw those had high flow temperature which is no-no.

Note there were other issues like brittle-ness (welding can tear off with vibration), Whiskers (Dude-ness, welding can grow whiskers shorting stuff. It's true.), and weak flow-ability (Don't remember how it was called)

I use Radio Shack silver bearing solder. This is pretty nice, but I think I should have opted for 60-40 Kester.

 

[diditmyself]

One more vote for "normal grade" leaded solder. Don't use the cheapest and no need to buy the most expensive. I've had bad experience from both.

 

[FallenAngel]

Well this is very simple - Eutectic solder flows easier and therefore is easier to use and further more, it prevents stupid mistakes and lasts longer. Good enough reason to use it?

 

[Bonthouse]

And Mundorf/WBT/Cardas solder has a lower melting point. A very big plus for me.

 

[atbglenn]

I've been using Kester 44 SN63 for over 30 years. I never had a problem with cold solder joints or dull looking joints.

 

[TimmyMac]

Spend your money on better parts or a better amp, and the difference will be way bigger than any solder or wire can effect.

 

[linuxworks]

Quote:

Originally Posted by atbglenn /img/forum/go_quote.gif I've been using Kester 44 SN63 for over 30 years. I never had a problem with cold solder joints or dull looking joints.

been using the kester 60/40 or the 63 type for longer than that, actually

zero reason to spend on 'boutique solder'. I don't even believe in magic wire, to be honest

 

[Billyk]

Quote:

Well this is very simple - Eutectic solder flows easier and therefore is easier to use and further more, it prevents stupid mistakes and lasts longer. Good enough reason to use it?

Eutectic is the key 63/37, it describes the properties of the alloy and the temperature it transitions from solid to liquid. A eutectic alloy moves smoothly from one state to the other thereby making a smoother joint and helping to avoid "cold" joints. Anything else is window dressing after that.

 

[linuxworks]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bonthouse /img/forum/go_quote.gif And Mundorf/WBT/Cardas solder has a lower melting point. A very big plus for me.

what are you soldering that you need to worry so much?

a temp controlled iron and good technique is far more useful than worry about melting points!

 

[atbglenn]

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxworks /img/forum/go_quote.gif been using the kester 60/40 or the 63 type for longer than that, actually zero reason to spend on 'boutique solder'. I don't even believe in magic wire, to be honest

I'm with you pal

 

[Bonthouse]

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxworks /img/forum/go_quote.gif what are you soldering that you need to worry so much? a temp controlled iron and good technique is far more useful than worry about melting points!

Recables. If I touch the driver too long with the tip, or it takes too long to liquefy the solder, there's a risk of damaging the voice coil.

 

[Uncle Erik]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bonthouse /img/forum/go_quote.gif Recables. If I touch the driver too long with the tip, or it takes too long to liquefy the solder, there's a risk of damaging the voice coil.

This is what heatsinks are for. I always heatsink a sensitive part, no matter how fast I work. I can usually make a quick connection (with the ordinary Kester) and the heatsink doesn't get warm, but it's not worth risking a part.

I use an assortment of copper clips in different sizes I picked up for a few dollars.