how important is solder?
Jul 21, 2009 at 9:29 PM Post #31 of 84
I know this is silly but how about posting some pics of your stuff? I'll start

DSC_2257.jpg


I see no date code on this vintage 1970's roll of solder

DSC_2254.jpg
 
Jul 21, 2009 at 11:40 PM Post #34 of 84
Quote:

Originally Posted by atbglenn /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I know this is silly but how about posting some pics of your stuff? I'll start


Not silly, but it should have its own thread, or continue one of the existing threads

My latest soldering toy. Not even set up yet.
pacesolderstation.jpg
 
Jul 22, 2009 at 12:19 AM Post #35 of 84
Quote:

Originally Posted by SiBurning /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Not silly, but it should have its own thread, or continue one of the existing threads

My latest soldering toy. Not even set up yet.



Nice
normal_smile .gif
Looks like it has desoldering capabilities. I've got one of those cheapo solder suckers that always clogs. I need to get a decent one..
 
Jul 22, 2009 at 12:31 AM Post #36 of 84
Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxworks /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I only tidy up my workbench once a year.

its not time yet and so I can't post photos of my bench (lol).



I should have taken a before and after picture to compare how messy my work bench normally is. I bet I'd win.. LOL!
 
Jul 22, 2009 at 12:52 AM Post #37 of 84
Is $7/foot too expensive for solder? I bought the SMD1 pack of ChipQuik and intend to find out. This stuff's supposed to lower the melting temperature of existing solder to 200F.

Quote:

Originally Posted by atbglenn /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Nice
normal_smile .gif
Looks like it has desoldering capabilities. I've got one of those cheapo solder suckers that always clogs. I need to get a decent one..



Assuming the broken down beast works... Not only does it desolder, but it grinds, drills, removes conformal coatings, electroplates, strips wire, solders resistively or conductively with or without pulse, and it can core a apple.

I don't think there's any really good dedicated desoldering tool that's cost effective for hobbyists building new audio projects. I'd only recommend one if you're restoring older equipment and need to do a lot of through hole desoldering. They're really only great for through hole, and very good for terminals, but there are better alternatives for SMD. OTOH, it would make a very good DIY project. For example. If you want to pick one up, the Hakko 808 is well regarded and only (yup!) $170.
 
Jul 22, 2009 at 1:09 AM Post #38 of 84
Quote:

Originally Posted by SiBurning /img/forum/go_quote.gif



Not only does it desolder, but it grinds, drills, removes conformal coatings, electroplates, strips wire, solders resistively or conductively with or without pulse, and it can core a apple.

If you want to pick one up, the Hakko 808 is well regarded and only (yup!) $170.



Yeah but can it slice, dice, make julian fries?? (core a apple cracked me up) HoneyMooners right?

I read excellent reviews on the Hakko. I'll consider it.. Thanks man
 
Jul 22, 2009 at 2:09 AM Post #39 of 84
hmm from reading these posts, there does not seem to be a definite consensus on whether it is worth the additional costs to use the "premium" solder. guess it is very much depending on the person. i will have to just try them out myself and see. thanks for all the opinions though.
 
Jul 22, 2009 at 2:20 AM Post #40 of 84
I personally believe so called audiophile grade solder, fuses, power cords are a complete waste of money. Just my opinion..
 
Jul 22, 2009 at 2:28 AM Post #41 of 84
Quote:

Originally Posted by Tomo /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Any words on Lead-Free solder?


Solder containing lead will have a lower melting point (= better) and won't require additional flux to help it flow faster. Stick with lead, and just use a fan or fume extractor if you're worried about inhalation. And don't forget to wash your hands before dinner
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Jul 22, 2009 at 2:32 AM Post #42 of 84
Quote:

Originally Posted by atbglenn /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I personally believe so called audiophile grade solder, fuses, power cords are a complete waste of money. Just my opinion..


Having said that, from my experience the 'audiophile solder' is only about a 20% premium on an already cheap component of any DIY project, so why not use it?

I'm not a big believer of any one thing such as solder affecting sound. However I believe in an accumulation of factors significantly affecting sound. Ie using slightly better solder, wire, terminations etc will accumulate to a tangeable difference, so if the price of doing so is minimal, I always opt for the better component.
 
Jul 22, 2009 at 3:12 AM Post #44 of 84
Quote:

Originally Posted by Good Times /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Stick with lead, and just use a fan or fume extractor if you're worried about inhalation. And don't forget to wash your hands before dinner
smily_headphones1.gif



you mean, no pizzas at the work bench?

but, I've been doing that for years and years and I haven't brained my damage.
 
Jul 22, 2009 at 3:14 AM Post #45 of 84
We're talking just over 1 cent per joint for a slob using 4% silver solder.

Want to save money? 99.9% pure lead is $2/lb. 99% pure tin is $11/lb. Draw your own 63/37 solder wire for $7.67/lb and buy 1/2 oz of rosin.
 

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