[tonybuild]

Just finished this triple driver .

 

[citiesandshapes]

Most of the older KZs actually use all the drivers, I wouldn't say that's necessarily a good thing though…


They switched to single DDs and unused drivers because they just can't tune correctly.

If I wanted to tame those weird peaks around 5/7/10 k and smooth the curve would a higher ohm damper on the tweeters do the trick?

 

[citiesandshapes]

Just finished this triple driver .

Those are sick dude. How do you get your acrylic so clear? 3D print or cast?

 

[slakoth453]

If I wanted to tame those weird peaks around 5/7/10 k and smooth the curve would a higher ohm damper on the tweeters do the trick?

Yeah since KZ doesn't use dampers at all that should work, although the peaks you should be focusing on here are the ones at 3/5k. In my opinion you're best off to just use the KZ drivers and redo everything else.

 

[talyak]

so im having a problem with my ferrofluid drivers. i keep trying to solder them, but the only place the solder wants to flow to is the vent. every time i try, i end up having to use my solder wick to remove all the solder. ive even tried using rosin on the pads i want to solder, but its still flowing to the centre. any advice to cleanly solder them? (admittedly, theres a good chance ive cooked this driver at this point, but still)

edit: ive basically ended up removing all the solder already on the drivers when they came cos of having to wick up the solder on the vent. so i cant rely on that anymore.

 

[citiesandshapes]

Yeah since KZ doesn't use dampers at all that should work, although the peaks you should be focusing on here are the ones at 3/5k. In my opinion you're best off to just use the KZ drivers and redo everything else.

My plan was to extract the PCB and the drivers so I don’t have to mess around with making a new crossover. Use dampers to tweak from there.
If I’m looking at trying to smooth 3/5k peaks what dampers should I use? I’m still new to this and wrapping my head around how the dampers attenuate things

 

[Wgibson]

Just threw together this set, my first time trying BA bass. Took less than two days to make it although I probably could have gotten the treble smoother if I spent more time experimenting with tube length. 38D1XJ, 2389 and RAD. Two tube design.

That is great extension, high and low, I bet the soundstage is nice. RAD 33518 (30095 basically) ?

 

[talyak]

okie. so heres a very simple etymotic style ferrofluid build. it uses knowles fed-30048, a 2 pin connector, and standard aliexpress triple flange ear tips. the STLs are toleranced for fdm printing, but should also be ok for resin printing (tho you may need to add tape or putty around the fed to have it seal tightly with a resin print). i only have one functional side so far, and i dont have a test rig, so i cant give tonnes of details about how they sound. tho i can definitely say it sounds more open than my blessing 2 dusks, is pretty mid/highs focused with very little bass below 80-90hz. the highs keep pace with the blessing 2s reasonably well (tho with very different treble peaks), which is to say its arguably a little rolled off, but not too bad.. a second version with a subwoofer (sonion 38 or 33 or knowles rdi or something) + super tweeter would be a really good move. while i personally want to avoid estats, i can see this being perfect with an 8k+ focused estat implementation. obviously without a zobel, source impedance is gonna impact the sound somewhat, but thats the cost of having something universal sit so far in your ear. that being said, its noticeably louder than my blessing 2s which arent especially hard to drive anyway.

as for how to make. you print the body and spout in one piece for resin, or two then superglue them together for fdm. you then solder litz wires to the fed, and put it inside the body, with the fed's vent on top, so it has a clean shot through the spout. you then solder the 2 pin connector directly to the litz wires (with one side flipped), and then slide the 2 pin connector into the back cap, and glue the whole thing together. its pretty easy as long as you dont mess up the soldering like i did on one side lol.

if i do a version 2, ill also post it and edit this post to link it. tho its probs gonna be a while before i do that cos i have other projects taking up most of my attention and funds rn

fed:
https://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Knowles/FED-30048-I04?qs=3unH/Dqlvl99QyMQ/d0qhQ==
2 pin:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1000001284078.html
eartips:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001336210068.html

 

[stegeoc]

Most of the older KZs actually use all the drivers, I wouldn't say that's necessarily a good thing though…


They switched to single DDs and unused drivers because they just can't tune correctly.

Funny, I made some iems a while back that had a very similar curve to this. To begin with I liked it, but after listening to different types of music I decided to disassemble it. Still on my to do list to redo that one, just sounds wrong with the dip over 1k and the 2k so low

 

[stegeoc]

On another subject, do any of you have any rules for how big an iem should be? Mine have been getting progressively smaller and I don't like anything that sticks out at all. Obviously sometimes you might not have a choice but are there any rules of thumb?

This particular ciem (on the left - and not made by me) sticks out so much I don't use it. I'm planning to cut it down to size at some point as there is plenty of room

 

[Xymordos]

Funny, I made some iems a while back that had a very similar curve to this. To begin with I liked it, but after listening to different types of music I decided to disassemble it. Still on my to do list to redo that one, just sounds wrong with the dip over 1k and the 2k so low

Funnily enough I've heard some iems with a huge 3khz peak and they don't sound that bad actually. Not ideal for sure but not terrible.

 

[slakoth453]

That is great extension, high and low, I bet the soundstage is nice. RAD 33518 (30095 basically) ?

Honestly the soundstage is nothing special, they don't really do anything exceptionally well. My previous hybrid is much better. This was more of a way for me to get some practice and test the 38D1XJ. I didn't manage to get rid of the 8-10k peak while also keeping extension, maybe a limitation of using the same tube for the RAD and 2389. I'll probably open them up again because loose components are making pinging noises when I touch the shell so I might try something different with the crossover while I'm at it. Yeah, it's the RAD 33518. I ordered a bunch of them on taobao because they were like $3.50 a piece.

 

[talyak]

On another subject, do any of you have any rules for how big an iem should be? Mine have been getting progressively smaller and I don't like anything that sticks out at all. Obviously sometimes you might not have a choice but are there any rules of thumb?

This particular ciem (on the left - and not made by me) sticks out so much I don't use it. I'm planning to cut it down to size at some point as there is plenty of room

i want all my iems to fit inside the conch so i can lay on my side with them in. honestly, this is the biggest issue i have with my blessing 2s, they stick out way too far. if i fall asleep with them in i have a 50/50 chance of waking up with a tonne of ear pain. plus i cant use my fiio utws3 with them because the shape of the utws pushes my ear forward a bit, and the blessing 2s push my ears back a bit basically resulting in a pinching which once again hurts a bunch if i wear them for more than an hour in a day.

 

[tonybuild]

Those are sick dude. How do you get your acrylic so clear? 3D print or cast?

Its a Nice-fit resin from soundlink from aliexpress . Its doesn’t get yellow (its cast).
And also i coated with egger lack ( also never gets yellow.
Thank you do much

 

[tonybuild]

Thank you for your advices for how to make crossover for sonion drivers . I like how they sound