P.s. - can someone briefly describe how to interpret a waterfall graph? What's good, what's bad, what can you glean from it, similar to a frequency response graph - can't tell the whole story, but what clues can it give you?
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Home-Made IEMs
- Thread starter Bilavideo
- Start date
dhruvmeena96
Headphoneus Supremus
X and Y axis are the frequency graph in CSDP.s. - can someone briefly describe how to interpret a waterfall graph? What's good, what's bad, what can you glean from it, similar to a frequency response graph - can't tell the whole story, but what clues can it give you?
The Z axis is time graph
It denotes in layman language, that for how long the note lingers.
It's measured in millisecond
You can technically tell, how the bass gonna decay and for how long and timbre characteristics
Or if, there is a hidden sibilance or splash if we are talking about decay sibilance and ringing of certain frequency.
It's easy to read once you start cross confirming your hearing with decay.
For example
If there is a subbass note of equal amount in dB but three type of decays
1. Instantly cutting off, not going enough in z axis.. this will denote a faster bass
2. Smooth consistent decay falling down denotes the sound will gradually taper off , like the bass hits, retains as it weakens and dies.
3. Pulsing decay with dips and peaks. Doesn't really happen and is more simualtion and mixing thing but it's like note- cut - decy - cut
This is for one signal and not a music editing thing
I mean, when 100Hz note hits, it will linger for a while
And decay tells us how it's gonna linger around and how it adds body
@Xymordos can share example since I am not building a lot like old days hahaha
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dhruvmeena96
Headphoneus Supremus
He has iec711 and is using some high quality black clay which I don't know lmaoHow are you physically measuring? In the shell with tack to seal the bore?
I breadboard stuff and use a temporary 3 bore nozzle with tubes, FR changes a bit when I put it in a shell, and resistance of the jumper wires have an effect, breadboard components vs small smd components, all has an effect, but I usually get close enough to the finished iem.
Example physical setup, obviously the alligator clips go to a breadboard.
kkugel
Member of the Trade: IEM Maker
Ok will upload asapI mean the waterfall graph
kkugel
Member of the Trade: IEM Maker
Waterfall, decay and impulse. Impulse looks super weird so I uploaded it too.
seijisandrei
New Head-Fier
Hi guys,
I'm looking for recommendations on the following:
1. Solder. What is the best specs of solder to use? And using that solder, what is the best temperature to work with it?
2. Solder Tip. What kind of solder tip is best? I don't know what I am using but when I reach around 350 degrees C, the tip softens and bends.
3. Any aliexpress store recommendation who sells good dynamic drivers and has low shipping rates?
4. Like number 3, but this time for 2-pin 3.5mm cables.
I've been working on my personal project for a while, and I concentrated on the main components - shell and drivers. But then I encountered problems from these, that's why this time I want to focus on the minor parts. I'm still confused about the differences of smd ceramic capacitor and resistor sizes but what I use as of now works so I won't focus on that yet.
I still have a lot to learn damn. Even on my ear impression trimming and shell making. The current one I have hurts my ear after about 2 hrs of listening.
Thanks guys!
I'm looking for recommendations on the following:
1. Solder. What is the best specs of solder to use? And using that solder, what is the best temperature to work with it?
2. Solder Tip. What kind of solder tip is best? I don't know what I am using but when I reach around 350 degrees C, the tip softens and bends.
3. Any aliexpress store recommendation who sells good dynamic drivers and has low shipping rates?
4. Like number 3, but this time for 2-pin 3.5mm cables.
I've been working on my personal project for a while, and I concentrated on the main components - shell and drivers. But then I encountered problems from these, that's why this time I want to focus on the minor parts. I'm still confused about the differences of smd ceramic capacitor and resistor sizes but what I use as of now works so I won't focus on that yet.
I still have a lot to learn damn. Even on my ear impression trimming and shell making. The current one I have hurts my ear after about 2 hrs of listening.
Thanks guys!
kkugel
Member of the Trade: IEM Maker
Hey man shoot me a message, I can help you with the basics I learned so farHi guys,
I'm looking for recommendations on the following:
1. Solder. What is the best specs of solder to use? And using that solder, what is the best temperature to work with it?
2. Solder Tip. What kind of solder tip is best? I don't know what I am using but when I reach around 350 degrees C, the tip softens and bends.
3. Any aliexpress store recommendation who sells good dynamic drivers and has low shipping rates?
4. Like number 3, but this time for 2-pin 3.5mm cables.
I've been working on my personal project for a while, and I concentrated on the main components - shell and drivers. But then I encountered problems from these, that's why this time I want to focus on the minor parts. I'm still confused about the differences of smd ceramic capacitor and resistor sizes but what I use as of now works so I won't focus on that yet.
I still have a lot to learn damn. Even on my ear impression trimming and shell making. The current one I have hurts my ear after about 2 hrs of listening.
Thanks guys!
Hi guys,
I'm looking for recommendations on the following:
1. Solder. What is the best specs of solder to use? And using that solder, what is the best temperature to work with it?
2. Solder Tip. What kind of solder tip is best? I don't know what I am using but when I reach around 350 degrees C, the tip softens and bends.
3. Any aliexpress store recommendation who sells good dynamic drivers and has low shipping rates?
4. Like number 3, but this time for 2-pin 3.5mm cables.
I've been working on my personal project for a while, and I concentrated on the main components - shell and drivers. But then I encountered problems from these, that's why this time I want to focus on the minor parts. I'm still confused about the differences of smd ceramic capacitor and resistor sizes but what I use as of now works so I won't focus on that yet.
I still have a lot to learn damn. Even on my ear impression trimming and shell making. The current one I have hurts my ear after about 2 hrs of listening.
Thanks guys!
I like to use the Oyaide silver solder
dhruvmeena96
Headphoneus Supremus
Rich peopleI like to use the Oyaide silver solder
Hahahahhahahahhahaha
I use standard solder
kkugel
Member of the Trade: IEM Maker
Imo silver solder has no benefits, but a premium electronic solder is leagues ahead of cheap chinese solder, as it flows better, melts earlier and has beautiful shiny finish when cooled down. Silver finish probably has the same benefits, but I'd rather save the extra money
mattmatt
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2012
- Posts
- 457
- Likes
- 284
1. I use Good SE-0AG08 and Cardas Eutectic solder. Had a chance to use TRT Wonder Solder too.Hi guys,
I'm looking for recommendations on the following:
1. Solder. What is the best specs of solder to use? And using that solder, what is the best temperature to work with it?
2. Solder Tip. What kind of solder tip is best? I don't know what I am using but when I reach around 350 degrees C, the tip softens and bends.
3. Any aliexpress store recommendation who sells good dynamic drivers and has low shipping rates?
4. Like number 3, but this time for 2-pin 3.5mm cables.
I've been working on my personal project for a while, and I concentrated on the main components - shell and drivers. But then I encountered problems from these, that's why this time I want to focus on the minor parts. I'm still confused about the differences of smd ceramic capacitor and resistor sizes but what I use as of now works so I won't focus on that yet.
I still have a lot to learn damn. Even on my ear impression trimming and shell making. The current one I have hurts my ear after about 2 hrs of listening.
Thanks guys!
2. I use the finest tip I can find for my TS100.
3. N/A
4. 2-pin socket or 2-pin male plug? 2-pin socket, SoundLink has them. They also sell 2-pin cables.
TOBIJampar
New Head-Fier
Use ED29689 and ED30761 savant built ment
this thread
BS6 has many iteration, which one in damper configuration.
If it was the bassy one, you can try dual CI and TWFK
If it's neutral one
Try masm 3 and also add a wbfk on top of it
If you want to design something new, then we can also help mate
Thanks for the suggestions
I used the one with white and orange damper:
https://www.circuit-diagram.org/circuits/49f54ed9
I don't know if that would be the bassy configuration, but it sounded bassy to me.
I only made the BS6 so far, so I would rather try some more tested builds before I go tinkering on my own.
Are there schematics/instructions for the dual Ci + twfk and masm3 + wbfk? I tried finding some in the thread but wasn't successful so far.
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dhruvmeena96
Headphoneus Supremus
Your answer in this post belowThanks for the suggestions
I used the one with white and orange damper:
https://www.circuit-diagram.org/circuits/49f54ed9
I don't know if that would be the bassy configuration, but it sounded bassy to me.
I only made the BS6 so far, so I would rather try some more tested builds before I go tinkering on my own.
Are there schematics/instructions for the dual Ci + twfk and masm3 + wbfk? I tried finding some in the thread but wasn't successful so far.
See the end part
All credits to @piotrus-g
First of all, burn in doesnt really change a lot on measurements like impulse and decay
its a brain thing because if the modern speaker are changing their sound even after tight tolerance of 10%, then whats the use of those +/-10% accuracy
read carefully, Sony is okayish
also, well, i may not be basshead like you or anyone else, i am more of balance guy... i love my bass till its not ruining my mids(i have heard and designed iem with basshelf at 200Hz while going beyond 15dB of bass)
all the campfire and all the bassy iems bass goes all the way to mids and thats what i hate... and i hate when its done on DD, because it just doesnt perform well
all the campfires and all the Acoustone and IMR sounds fat, muddy and bloated mess to me rather than bassy and well extended
dont get me wrong, i think you have not heard a really good bassy iem
lets talk about Atlas shall we
see carefully, the bass rise from 1kHz
and its going to 15dB
as perceived volume to dB law
every 3dB leads to double the perceived volume
so
lets take 1kHz to 400Hz
400Hz is double as loud
then 200Hz is double as loud
making 200hz ... 4 times louder than 1khz
where human most sensitive hearing range is 100Hz to 1kHz, where he makes sense of fundamental tone like speech fundamentals etc
its already messing it up
and then wrong fundamental pinna which messes up timbre as well
i dont know why you like this
it may wow you initially and then its meh
Odin and Z1R are the greatest basshead iem
meanwhile this iem(craft ears craft 6 custom) may be bass lean, it is hailed as one of the best bass heard on BA, even outpacing DD in what DD does and BA in what BA does.. you can read reviews on it
and this guy came from this thread itself and made an iem, which outpaced Tia driver on treble
https://www.craftears.com/products/model-ce6/
what i want to tell you is
keep your basshead hobby, but respect 200Hz to 1kHz flatness and proper uppermid pinna gain so atleast iem sound realsitic
also, i am using dayton ultimax 12 subwoofer
about my listening taste:
Metroboomin, Daft punk, Mondo Grosso, Eminem, Kanye west, Travis Scott, 21 Savage, Hans Zimmer, Borislav Slavov etc
i dont listen to trance and dub step
now,,,, well, my work
its so much lost in this tread that even i cannot find it where it all started. Other works i keep myself because i dont feel they deem worthy sharing
i only share stuff which is cheap to make, easy to make and is worthwhile
RAB-P series (for RAB driver)
MASM series (have almost 10 iteration and then further design updates as we go along)
i am working on a cheap, reliable bassy but realistic tuning iem
if you need really shot down in your throat bass while having perfect uppermids and realism and have big enough shell
why dont you try the hardest build by @piotrus-g
the dual CI and TWFK
its still considered advanced build but those dual CI will shake you to the core and then more while not mudying like Atlas and polaris
its still a lot of bass, and i prefer leaking it as it still colours a lot of mids, but it has faster impulse than DD and is not muddy, just a bit more towards bloat on song
i would say, modify it like -3dB on bass and its a very nice V shape bass oriented iem
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DannyDiemelstadt
New Head-Fier
Have you guys used wax guard or cerumen filters on your builds?
Does it only need a 2mm ID tube?
seijisandrei
New Head-Fier
1. I use Good SE-0AG08 and Cardas Eutectic solder. Had a chance to use TRT Wonder Solder too.
2. I use the finest tip I can find for my TS100.
3. N/A
4. 2-pin socket or 2-pin male plug? 2-pin socket, SoundLink has them. They also sell 2-pin cables.
Rich people! My stuff doesn't even have brands lol. What's a ts100? I'm wondering what kind of tip i should use, copper, lead free, etc.
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