Home-Made IEMs
May 2, 2021 at 10:55 AM Post #12,751 of 16,094
Guys if you use EST...tape the cables to the drivers STRONG! I teared them off and had to resolder the smallest connection ever...

IMG-20210502-WA0019.jpeg
 
May 2, 2021 at 11:26 AM Post #12,752 of 16,094
Guys if you use EST...tape the cables to the drivers STRONG! I teared them off and had to resolder the smallest connection ever...

IMG-20210502-WA0019.jpeg
ghademn, man. this gives me anxiety. I never use alligator clips with my drivers. If you must do, wrap them with heat shrink so it won't dent the drivers. better yet, use blu tack or tack it. :)) I also second being really careful with the ESTs. Good thing that I think I have spent a lot of time soldering in my life that I don't find it troublesome anymore to resolder this. But I did lift a pad off when I accidentally tugged the wire. That was not a good day to say the least.

May I ask your soldering setup?
 
May 2, 2021 at 11:59 AM Post #12,753 of 16,094
ghademn, man. this gives me anxiety. I never use alligator clips with my drivers. If you must do, wrap them with heat shrink so it won't dent the drivers. better yet, use blu tack or tack it. :)) I also second being really careful with the ESTs. Good thing that I think I have spent a lot of time soldering in my life that I don't find it troublesome anymore to resolder this. But I did lift a pad off when I accidentally tugged the wire. That was not a good day to say the least.

May I ask your soldering setup?
Haha I've not noticed any denting or change in FR, the clamp force is not so high. I use a Hakko FX-888D soldering station on 480 C and this soldering holder with CFH electronic solder wire.
 
May 2, 2021 at 2:07 PM Post #12,754 of 16,094
I use silicone tube as soft jaws when I put drivers in alligator clamps, get a wide reusable silicone drinking straw and cut off a short piece, put the driver inside and clamp. Or you could get smaller diameter and slip it over both jaws of the clamp.
 
May 2, 2021 at 5:05 PM Post #12,756 of 16,094
Your 480*C makes me wonder about its high temperature. I always use 320*C. No flux, well pretinned litz.Zrzut ekranu 2021-05-2 o 21.26.52.png
Drivers took it fine so far, 480 was genius today, was able to solder EST driver pads in like 0.3 seconds haha, no big heat transfer to driver at all
 
May 2, 2021 at 8:47 PM Post #12,758 of 16,094
Here's the best FR we achieved without EST Dhruv is talking about, it sounds like ass and as if singers are glued to their instruments, really smeared and congested all over the place, mids are sometimes even a single blob of sound, especially for electric guitar rock music. Worse than a KZ ATE to be honest, which is kind of unbelievable. I always measured the same amount of bass and it continues down to 6 Hz linear. However somewhere along the deep rumbling got lost and the bass texture too. I exchanged drivers too for the ones of the other channel, exact same graph and sound.

Bildschirmfoto 2021-05-02 um 01.14.12.png
 
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May 2, 2021 at 10:06 PM Post #12,759 of 16,094
Here's the best FR we achieved without EST Dhruv is talking about, it sounds like ass and as if singers are glued to their instruments, really smeared and congested all over the place, mids are sometimes even a single blob of sound, especially for electric guitar rock music. Worse than a KZ ATE to be honest, which is kind of unbelievable. I always measured the same amount of bass and it continues down to 6 Hz linear. However somewhere along the deep rumbling got lost and the bass texture too. I exchanged drivers too for the ones of the other channel, exact same graph and sound.

Bildschirmfoto 2021-05-02 um 01.14.12.png

What's the CSD like?
 
May 2, 2021 at 11:50 PM Post #12,763 of 16,094
How are you physically measuring? In the shell with tack to seal the bore?

I breadboard stuff and use a temporary 3 bore nozzle with tubes, FR changes a bit when I put it in a shell, and resistance of the jumper wires have an effect, breadboard components vs small smd components, all has an effect, but I usually get close enough to the finished iem.

Example physical setup, obviously the alligator clips go to a breadboard.
20210308_193958.jpg
 
May 3, 2021 at 2:10 AM Post #12,765 of 16,094
P.s. - can someone briefly describe how to interpret a waterfall graph? What's good, what's bad, what can you glean from it, similar to a frequency response graph - can't tell the whole story, but what clues can it give you?
X and Y axis are the frequency graph in CSD
The Z axis is time graph
It denotes in layman language, that for how long the note lingers.
It's measured in millisecond

You can technically tell, how the bass gonna decay and for how long and timbre characteristics
Or if, there is a hidden sibilance or splash if we are talking about decay sibilance and ringing of certain frequency.

It's easy to read once you start cross confirming your hearing with decay.

For example

If there is a subbass note of equal amount in dB but three type of decays

1. Instantly cutting off, not going enough in z axis.. this will denote a faster bass

2. Smooth consistent decay falling down denotes the sound will gradually taper off , like the bass hits, retains as it weakens and dies.

3. Pulsing decay with dips and peaks. Doesn't really happen and is more simualtion and mixing thing but it's like note- cut - decy - cut


This is for one signal and not a music editing thing

I mean, when 100Hz note hits, it will linger for a while
And decay tells us how it's gonna linger around and how it adds body

@Xymordos can share example since I am not building a lot like old days hahaha
 
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