[et.haan]

Please dont mention the drivers of a specific brand earphones

Reference to DTEC

By the way..

I cannot find the PDF of WBFK you mention(60025)

I have WBFK 30019

But the question is...to remove the upper plate of BA. I did try once in the past and wrecked my driver..

Sorry, all for double posting a lot. But, to remove the snout, I just gripped the BA and the snout of the BA, and turned. Came right off, totally clean. I am not sure how they are attached. I guess ultrasonic welding, or a little bit of glue.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Sorry, all for double posting a lot. But, to remove the snout, I just gripped the BA and the snout of the BA, and turned. Came right off, totally clean. I am not sure how they are attached. I guess ultrasonic welding, or a little bit of glue.

the removal of name if BA was for security reason. You can mention the BA, never mention the crossover. For safety reason and in good heart, i told you to remove name.. Its better to be more safe

even though this(and other DIY) thread is the most transparent one here.

i was asking about the WBFK60025. i have the 30019 with me

.............................................................................

Bro
You(@et.haan ) and @DannyBouwhuis are crazy(in a good way)

one remove the spout and one add spouts to BA

LOL

nice experiments you guys do

waiting for someone, who can increase the internal volume of CI's Back chamber for fun

 

[DannyBouwhuis]

the removal of name if BA was for security reason. You can mention the BA, never mention the crossover. For safety reason and in good heart, i told you to remove name.. Its better to be more safe

even though this(and other DIY) thread is the most transparent one here.

i was asking about the WBFK60025. i have the 30019 with me

.............................................................................

Bro
You(@et.haan ) and @DannyBouwhuis are craz

waiting for someone, who can increase the internal volume of CI's Back chamber for fun

the removal of name if BA was for security reason. You can mention the BA, never mention the crossover. For safety reason and in good heart, i told you to remove name.. Its better to be more safe

even though this(and other DIY) thread is the most transparent one here.

i was asking about the WBFK60025. i have the 30019 with me

.............................................................................

Bro
You(@et.haan ) and @DannyBouwhuis are crazy(in a good way)

one remove the spout and one add spouts to BA

LOL

nice experiments you guys do

waiting for someone, who can increase the internal volume of CI's Back chamber for fun

That sounds intresting, I like things that sound intresting, do you have a spare CI you could open up ? I'd like to see the internals to see if anything like that is even possible.. I'll order a pair soon

 

[Xymordos]

Please dont mention the drivers of a specific brand earphones

Reference to DTEC

By the way..

I cannot find the PDF of WBFK you mention(60025)

I have WBFK 30019

But the question is...to remove the upper plate of BA. I did try once in the past and wrecked my driver..

I don't think you can remove the top cover completely. Tia is more like a very large laser cut bore on one side of the BA driver.

 

[et.haan]

the removal of name if BA was for security reason. You can mention the BA, never mention the crossover. For safety reason and in good heart, i told you to remove name.. Its better to be more safe

even though this(and other DIY) thread is the most transparent one here.

i was asking about the WBFK60025. i have the 30019 with me

.............................................................................

Bro
You(@et.haan ) and @DannyBouwhuis are crazy(in a good way)

one remove the spout and one add spouts to BA

LOL

nice experiments you guys do

waiting for someone, who can increase the internal volume of CI's Back chamber for fun

Thanks, haha. I took apart my first pair of CIEM’s a while ago, in an attempt to salvage drivers. A TWFK went flying somewhere, and is likely dead. If I find it, i’ll make a video of removing the snout.

Back volume could increase low frequency extension and LF performance due to more air being moved, correct? Like a ported subwoofer?

 

[et.haan]

That sounds intresting, I like things that sound intresting, do you have a spare CI you could open up ? I'd like to see the internals to see if anything like that is even possible.. I'll order a pair soon

The woofer that “you know who” uses for the woofer on the “four driver tubeless” is likely an ED or CL with the side lasered off. Definitely not a hodvtec, it is a dual. Could be sonion.

Something else I don’t understand about that IEM is the driver choice. WBFK as tweeter snout, some mid driver farther back in canal, (they call it a high mid driver), and then dynamic attatched to faceplate as woofer. Makes sense. The last driver is in the top, (near the cable) and has an entire side open. This would make the most sense to be a subwoofer, as LF is less directional than HF. But it is used as a mid! Makes no sense, and seems like a flawed design. Look on the website, it shows an exploded view, so you can see what I mean.

Sadly, there is no way to get a BA’s side off without destroying it. The snout yes, it is just stamped and welded on. But the side is a crucial part of the IEM.

 

[et.haan]

the removal of name if BA was for security reason. You can mention the BA, never mention the crossover. For safety reason and in good heart, i told you to remove name.. Its better to be more safe

even though this(and other DIY) thread is the most transparent one here.

i was asking about the WBFK60025. i have the 30019 with me

.............................................................................

Bro
You(@et.haan ) and @DannyBouwhuis are crazy(in a good way)

one remove the spout and one add spouts to BA

LOL

nice experiments you guys do

waiting for someone, who can increase the internal volume of CI's Back chamber for fun

Could you measure and post the 30019? Preferably using the knowles method for tweeter performance that I linked above. It seems to only work 4khz+, which is optimal for a WBFK.

I do not even known how I would hook up a tubeless to a 711 coupler.

 

[et.haan]

Also, I was thinking yesterday, TWFK is an awkward driver. It sounds weird, but let me explain.

TWFK, without a damper, has a wonderful extension and a sparkle. But, from 3-6khz, it is horrible sounding, totally harsh in tone. So, you add a green or brown damper. That fixes the harshness, but all your extension is gone.

Remember that a TWFK is a WBFK and 1/2 of a DWFK. I forgot what individual DWFK is called. WBFK is tweeter, DWFK is dual woofer.

I like the idea of SWFK + DWFK. SWFK is 2 WBFK. SWFK is highpassed, and plays at 3khz+. No filter. DWFK is a mid driver. Green filter. No harsh sound, still has good extension.

I know that a great sounding TWFK is possible, but it’s not easy. Campfire did it with andromeda, but they have complicated tuning, with a Horn and resonator. Anybody know of any really easy tuning solutions for the twfk?

 

[Ivan TT]

I do not even known how I would hook up a tubeless to a 711 coupler.

I'm doing lots of experimenting with spouts removed on RAB/RAF drivers at a moment.
You can stretch 2-3mm ID tubing over single or dual drivers easily enough, if it's 3mm I glue 2mm ID tube into 3mm ID tube, works like a charm!
PS: seal important for bass, so I insert drivers only halfway through and use B7000 glue to seal.
PPS: if we as @stephensynanta16 really really nicely he may design 3D printed adaptors, driver(s) on 1 side, hole for tubing on another. I'm testing his design for x4 RAB/RAF, makes it soooo much easier to hook them up and get a good seal!

 

[et.haan]

I'm doing lots of experimenting with spouts removed on RAB/RAF drivers at a moment.
You can stretch 2-3mm ID tubing over single or dual drivers easily enough, if it's 3mm I glue 2mm ID tube into 3mm ID tube, works like a charm!
PS: seal important for bass, so I insert drivers only halfway through and use B7000 glue to seal.
PPS: if we as @stephensynanta16 really really nicely he may design 3D printed adaptors, driver(s) on 1 side, hole for tubing on another. I'm testing his design for x4 RAB/RAF, makes it soooo much easier to hook them up and get a good seal!

Are you also just twisting them off? Or buying snoutless RAB? Ultimate does this, with 3d printing. They call it phase aligned driver housing or something. However, they still have the snouts on. I am guessing it is for an even soundstage and tuning. I want to try it soon.

How are your results?

 

[DannyBouwhuis]

Sadly, there is no way to get a BA’s side off without destroying it. The snout yes, it is just stamped and welded on. But the side is a crucial part of the IEM.

Removing the side is impossible that's for sure, the top of the driver might be possible I just fired up my soldering iron to see what will happen

 

[et.haan]

Removing the side is impossible that's for sure, the top of the driver might be possible I just fired up my soldering iron to see what will happen

Also try twisting. I have had success with that. Maybe both. I think it’s attatched with ultrasonic welding, which heavily I doubt could be removed with an iron.

 

[DannyBouwhuis]

Also try twisting. I have had success with that. Maybe both. I think it’s attatched with ultrasonic welding, which heavily I doubt could be removed with an iron.

The iron was used for soldering, you can pretty easily remove the top of the houding with a sharp precision knife.

Anyway the driver works without a cover, highs sound suprisingly sharp but the mids are pretty distorted (note that I just held the driver close to my ear)
So driver can be opened thus they can also be closed if we're carefull enough..

I like the FED so I'm thinking of adding ferrofluid to other drivers

 

[Ivan TT]

Are you also just twisting them off? Or buying snoutless RAB? Ultimate does this, with 3d printing. They call it phase aligned driver housing or something. However, they still have the snouts on. I am guessing it is for an even soundstage and tuning. I want to try it soon.

How are your results?

Gentle pressure with wire cutters, they come off quite easily.
I like spoutless sound as there’s a bit less upper midrange harshness (so I can go 1 up in dampers resistance, from green to brown) and better slam in lows and mids.
At this stage x4 RAF in series is my best sounding set, although it’s not as V-shaped as GV and does not extend as far in HF, but the slam, quality of mids and coherence of x-over less approach are amasing!

 

[et.haan]

Gentle pressure with wire cutters, they come off quite easily.
I like spoutless sound as there’s a bit less upper midrange harshness (so I can go 1 up in dampers resistance, from green to brown) and better slam in lows and mids.
At this stage x4 RAF in series is my best sounding set, although it’s not as V-shaped as GV and does not extend as far in HF, but the slam, quality of mids and coherence of x-over less approach are amasing!

Interesting. How do you think this would sound with the SWFK?

By x4 RAF do you mean 4 RAF design? or 4th in series of your design?

I dont see any nozzle-less RAF, do you just pull it off, like I did with the TWFK and HODVTEC?

Also, GV does not use HODVTEC-31618, the nozzle is in a different spot, on the bottom, like the CL. Not sure which one.

Care to shoot a picture of one?