[dhruvmeena96]

if somebody is working with RAF-32873

Zobel circuit

C=10.31 uF
R=27.5 ohms

Series Notch

C=12 uF
L=0.3mH(Make sure that inductor are resistive, so reduce resistor value in accord of inductor)
R > 22 ohm (increment by 1 mOhm till you get the damping effect, or can stick with this)



Parallel notch(still not recommended, ruins the sound profiling)

C=150.15 uF(in series with driver)
R=2.65 ohm(parallel)
L=3.75 mH(Parallel, calculation required so 2.65 ohm is maintained in parallel, to tough)

Twin T notch(Not recommended, to powerful in damping criteria)
Band Stop(Bad and not really good for distortion figures, and is hard to control in BA behavior)

Front expansion

Good luck, man. Here's something that might be helpful:

RAB fits perfectly into 2.5mm ID tubing. Might work for the front resonator.

courtesy of @IvanNOON

2.5mm tube in 4mm length(resonator)
1.5mm tube in remaining length or a folded Libby horn 3mm(Recommended, for High res sound)

If not using horn, just the tube, use a SWFK or WBFK to boost treble area

SWFK Zobel(Just forget about this)

C=126uF(LoL)
R=7.8ohm

No dampers required(don't use one, not recommended)

 

[Lucas Taboada]

I don’t have too much experience, but I think you did good. The inner part of the canal is not that important for sound in my experience. You just have to make sure the holes do not touch the canal, other than that the influence on the sound seems minimal at best.

How did you do the copies of the impressions, did you use agar for the negatives?

I'm more worried about the fit and isolation, if I've cut too much it will not fit right and have a good isolation I believe.

I have used the same material from the impressions, Dreve Otoform to make the negative, then filling and making the positive. But it is a pain in the ass to make the negative, almost always I get some bubbles or places not filled right because of the consistency of the material I believe. Next time I will try some agar to see how it goes.

Heres a picture:

 

[eunice]

I'm more worried about the fit and isolation, if I've cut too much it will not fit right and have a good isolation I believe.

Isolation and fit is mostly from the area around the first bend and a little more outside. In my experience you can remove quite a lot material beyond the first bend without affecting fit or isolation at all.
You do change the volume and affect sound, but it’s less than I would have thought.

 

[ForceMajeure]

if somebody is working with RAF-32873

Zobel circuit

C=10.31 uF
R=27.5 ohms

Series Notch

C=12 uF
L=0.3mH(Make sure that inductor are resistive, so reduce resistor value in accord of inductor)
R > 22 ohm (increment by 1 mOhm till you get the damping effect, or can stick with this)



Parallel notch(still not recommended, ruins the sound profiling)

C=150.15 uF(in series with driver)
R=2.65 ohm(parallel)
L=3.75 mH(Parallel, calculation required so 2.65 ohm is maintained in parallel, to tough)

Twin T notch(Not recommended, to powerful in damping criteria)
Band Stop(Bad and not really good for distortion figures, and is hard to control in BA behavior)

Front expansion


courtesy of @IvanNOON

2.5mm tube in 4mm length(resonator)
1.5mm tube in remaining length or a folded Libby horn 3mm(Recommended, for High res sound)

If not using horn, just the tube, use a SWFK or WBFK to boost treble area

SWFK Zobel(Just forget about this)

C=126uF(LoL)
R=7.8ohm

No dampers required(don't use one, not recommended)

finding capacitors with those values is impossible haha.

I love your enthusiasm although it takes me awhile to read through your posts every time since they are kinda hard to follow but they are very interesting nonetheless

anyway you asked earlier what would be the best way to start implementing the things you mentioned and my advice would be to do things step by step and play around with each step. don't rush and try to implement the next upgrade.
I have learned more along the way trying things than theorizing. trial and error is key and let yourself flow with mistakes. most breakthroughs happen doing things by mistake. balanced armature and multi balanced systems can be unpredictable especially when you mix different drivers

 

[dhruvmeena96]

finding capacitors with those values is impossible haha.

I love your enthusiasm although it takes me awhile to read through your posts every time since they are kinda hard to follow but they are very interesting nonetheless

anyway you asked earlier what would be the best way to start implementing the things you mentioned and my advice would be to do things step by step and play around with each step. don't rush and try to implement the next upgrade.
I have learned more along the way trying things than theorizing. trial and error is key and let yourself flow with mistakes. most breakthroughs happen doing things by mistake. balanced armature and multi balanced systems can be unpredictable especially when you mix different drivers

Well you can take nearby values. Those BoM is available on mouser.

Thanks bro....

SWFK is impossible for the work of zobel

And you can take nearby value for caps

 

[mattmatt]

Hey guys, been playing around with dreve lack 3. any idea how to avoid lumps and bubbles? I use a slow RPM motor for about 10 mins then start cure while still rotating.

The shine of the lacquer is outstanding if will be done properly tho.

 

[ForceMajeure]

Hey guys, been playing around with dreve lack 3. any idea how to avoid lumps and bubbles? I use a slow RPM motor for about 10 mins then start cure while still rotating.

The shine of the lacquer is outstanding if will be done properly tho.

bubbles and lumps happen during application. in rare cases they can form during curing, if it's the case it means that there probably was too much lacquer applied in a certain area that lead it to cure unevenly but it's more rare.

The most important advice is to lacquer during daylight in rather bright place. those small bubbles and lumps are extremely difficult to catch and often missed unless you examine the iem from all angles.
if you lacquer with artificial light you'll always end up missing some and won't be able to correct it in time.

a key point is to find most of the imperfections and try to correct them fast before the lacquer starts spreading evenly (it has an auto leveling agent). after a a few minutes you will probably not be able to correct an area with gentle strokes since you'll end up adding too much lacquer trying to nuke a certain bubble.

usually you can pop out bubbles by just touching them with the brush or try to transfer it to the brush somehow. sometimes a gentle stroke will do the trick but others it won't work. that's when things get tricky...

at a certain stage, if you are not satisfied, it's better to just wipe off and clean with alcohol everything and start fresh than trying to rectify.


the best way to avoid bubbles and unevenness in the first place is to dump the brush in lacquer every 2 strokes on avg even less sometimes.
try to NOT press the brush against the nozzle of the bottle TOO much to remove the excess lacquer when you dip it in, since this will create small bubbles that will be transferred with your strokes.

do not skimp on lacquer. it's expensive but there is no way around if you want good results. and again do this in daylight.

 

[eunice]

Thank you so much for explaining how to lacquer properly, I will have to try.

I have up on Lack entirely, if you buy the Dreve polishing wax and polishing wheel you will get a very shiny surface without any lacquer at all. For my capabilities that worked much better than lacquer.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

bubbles and lumps happen during application. in rare cases they can form during curing, if it's the case it means that there probably was too much lacquer applied in a certain area that lead it to cure unevenly but it's more rare.

The most important advice is to lacquer during daylight in rather bright place. those small bubbles and lumps are extremely difficult to catch and often missed unless you examine the iem from all angles.
if you lacquer with artificial light you'll always end up missing some and won't be able to correct it in time.

a key point is to find most of the imperfections and try to correct them fast before the lacquer starts to spreading evenly (it has an auto leveling agent). after a a few minutes you will probably not be able to correct an area with gentle strokes since you'l end up adding too much lacquer in a certain area trying to nuke a certain bubble.

usually you can pop out bubbles by just touching them with the brush or try to transfer it to the brush somehow. sometimes a gentle stroke will do the trick but others it won't work. that's when things get tricky...

at a certain stage, if you are not satisfied, it's better to just wipe off and clean with alcohol everything and start fresh than trying to rectify.


the best way to avoid bubbles and unevenness in the first place is to dump the brush in lacquer every 2 strokes on avg even less sometimes.
try to NOT press the brush against the nozzle of the bottle TOO much to remove the excess lacquer when you dip it in, since this will create small bubbles that will be transferred with your strokes.

do not skimp on lacquer. it's expensive but there is no way around if you want good results. and again do this in daylight.

Thats why i buy semi-universal shell from aliexpress
i have always failed in making custom mould, and India is damn expensive for getting earmoulds done.
even musicians here dont care about CIEM for stage performance, they wear Senn HD380 sometimes for stage performance

AR Rahman wore Beyerdynamic DT770(He is legend music maker and singer)



we have only one company here in india which was recently started, named Tymphones IEMS, and i think their design are pretty simple internally but are damm to expensive even if i compare to international brands. They are doing 3D in ear scan which seems quicker than UE. Another is Starkey but their major focus is hearing aids and make CIEM if somebody demands specially

i Had warbler prelude, and don't know why, i got the shell done 3 times, but the CIEM's induces pains inside my ear. So my trust from CIEM is gone for the time being. My warbler was gifted to my brother and it fit better to him. (It was still one of the best sounding pair)

One of my friend, who is a vocalist told me that, it doesn't suit Indian ears that much. Indians don't like stiff object inside their ear. You may find people sleeping with earplugs but will never find a indian sleeping with earplugs

(I know it is out of topic)

But can you me suggest something, so that i can enjoy a CIEM without pain
Well i havent tried silicone shell till now, but getting it re-shelled is expensive

 

[playpunk]

Hey guys:

I just finished my first set of DIY CIEM’s. This project tried my patience in many ways. I also managed to screw up the mmcx cable I ordered so I could only listen for a minute while holding the cable end to the IEM.

Here’s what I learned:

First:the impression kit from Earphones.com is worthless. The one previously recommended. The set up time on the impression material is too short to get a deep enough impression for a CIEM. The Westone single use impression making materials (pink stuff) are way way better.

Second: trial and error is the name of the game. I made several sets of impressions before I got a good set. I made maybe 8 sets of shells before I got a decent set, and made every different type of error, too thick, too thin, holes, lumps, etc. after I got a decent set of shells I screwed up drilling and working the shells a couple times, too. Diamond burrs were a lifesaver.

Third: the prices charged by the pros are extremely reasonable and a good investment. I got a bug up my butt to do this myself, but it makes no sense. It is kind of satisfying to be finished but there was plenty of frustration along the way.

A couple of bad pictures:

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Thank you so much for explaining how to lacquer properly, I will have to try.

I have up on Lack entirely, if you buy the Dreve polishing wax and polishing wheel you will get a very shiny surface without any lacquer at all. For my capabilities that worked much better than lacquer.

You can not polish the lak, also using a rotator will help with the lak finish. Basically put a coat of lak on let it spin for about 2min then touch up the areas that have bubbles and put back on the rotator. Slow down on the process, sometimes you we can be quick to get it cured out of excitement, it’s ok to slow down on the process a bit.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Hey guys:

I just finished my first set of DIY CIEM’s. This project tried my patience in many ways. I also managed to screw up the mmcx cable I ordered so I could only listen for a minute while holding the cable end to the IEM.

Here’s what I learned:

First:the impression kit from Earphones.com is worthless. The one previously recommended. The set up time on the impression material is too short to get a deep enough impression for a CIEM. The Westone single use impression making materials (pink stuff) are way way better.

Second: trial and error is the name of the game. I made several sets of impressions before I got a good set. I made maybe 8 sets of shells before I got a decent set, and made every different type of error, too thick, too thin, holes, lumps, etc. after I got a decent set of shells I screwed up drilling and working the shells a couple times, too. Diamond burrs were a lifesaver.

Third: the prices charged by the pros are extremely reasonable and a good investment. I got a bug up my butt to do this myself, but it makes no sense. It is kind of satisfying to be finished but there was plenty of frustration along the way.

A couple of bad pictures:

The pictures are not loading bro



By the way, does anybody know, how to make a BA behave like Dynamic driver. I mean the mellow sound plus a pretty nice Decay.

I mean to ask, is it possible on BA. BA are very fast, i mean an impulse of <1.5ms is damn fast, but this behavior is static and uniform in BA driver whereas dynamic impulse is always an average of frequency points, which can mean that it can be slower(Decayish) on some parts and faster on some, averaged as impulse.

i want BA to get a little loose on sub bass side and show beautiful decay.

i am thinking of creating a BA all version of the legendary Sony MDR 7550

 

[vladstef]

The pictures are not loading bro



By the way, does anybody know, how to make a BA behave like Dynamic driver. I mean the mellow sound plus a pretty nice Decay.

I mean to ask, is it possible on BA. BA are very fast, i mean an impulse of <1.5ms is damn fast, but this behavior is static and uniform in BA driver whereas dynamic impulse is always an average of frequency points, which can mean that it can be slower(Decayish) on some parts and faster on some, averaged as impulse.

i want BA to get a little loose on sub bass side and show beautiful decay.

i am thinking of creating a BA all version of the legendary Sony MDR 7550

RAF driver without black mesh on the back (careful when removing, the small hole on the back behind the mesh i so small that once something gets in there, you are never getting it out). Add a bit of resistance, lets say 20-30 ohms and pair it with a longer smaller tube, 1ID for example, 20mm long. To my ears, this sounds slower than an average modern dynamic driver, maybe not objectively slower but surprisingly sluggish. Obviously, this can only be done in combination with something else for mids/treble.

Also, this is not something that I'd recommend. If you want slower bass go for dynamic driver woofer. If you are careful enough, it will pair up nicely with other BAs for a hybrid design.

 

[mattmatt]

You can not polish the lak, also using a rotator will help with the lak finish. Basically put a coat of lak on let it spin for about 2min then touch up the areas that have bubbles and put back on the rotator. Slow down on the process, sometimes you we can be quick to get it cured out of excitement, it’s ok to slow down on the process a bit.

I've rotated it for 10 mins already but still have these lumps

 

[mattmatt]

bubbles and lumps happen during application. in rare cases they can form during curing, if it's the case it means that there probably was too much lacquer applied in a certain area that lead it to cure unevenly but it's more rare.

The most important advice is to lacquer during daylight in rather bright place. those small bubbles and lumps are extremely difficult to catch and often missed unless you examine the iem from all angles.
if you lacquer with artificial light you'll always end up missing some and won't be able to correct it in time.

a key point is to find most of the imperfections and try to correct them fast before the lacquer starts spreading evenly (it has an auto leveling agent). after a a few minutes you will probably not be able to correct an area with gentle strokes since you'll end up adding too much lacquer trying to nuke a certain bubble.

usually you can pop out bubbles by just touching them with the brush or try to transfer it to the brush somehow. sometimes a gentle stroke will do the trick but others it won't work. that's when things get tricky...

at a certain stage, if you are not satisfied, it's better to just wipe off and clean with alcohol everything and start fresh than trying to rectify.


the best way to avoid bubbles and unevenness in the first place is to dump the brush in lacquer every 2 strokes on avg even less sometimes.
try to NOT press the brush against the nozzle of the bottle TOO much to remove the excess lacquer when you dip it in, since this will create small bubbles that will be transferred with your strokes.

do not skimp on lacquer. it's expensive but there is no way around if you want good results. and again do this in daylight.

I think I was applying too much lacquer because when i try to correct the parts with imperfections, the lacquer is already sticky and have lumps on the side of the brush strokes.

It's not just expensive, it's almost impossible to have it shipped here in Philippines.