Smgwee1
New Head-Fier
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2013
- Posts
- 41
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Wow that looks nice! How did you get the wood to merge so well with the shell without covering it with resin?
They look fantastic great job, may I ask, where did you find that wood for the faceplates?First pair done! By no means perfect, but happy with how these turned out as my first set. I'm also quite please with the sound (GV with green and red filter). I can't believe I actually did it after stumbling onto this tread for the first time more than 2 years ago!!
The turning speed for the rotator that is sold from Egger is ~15rpm. 5-6rpm is too slow IMO
Securing the drivers and filling the canal is done with resin yes, with a syringe. as long as you don't touch it with your fingers the fact that it is tacky shouldn't matter for you.
I’ve been using the home made ones at that speed and a bit fast for over a year with exceptional results. Honestly speaking any speed will essentially work as its allowing the Lacquer to settle.
I’ve been doing 1-2 pairs a week consistently and the idea behind my rotors is that its a DIY tool made at home that has helped me make professional grade IEM’s. The concept fits well with the DIY community!
I say invest in a motor and make one yourself. Save the money and invest it into material and or UV cute lite. IMO!
I was playing around with the idea of metal shell IEM, so got a audiologist to scan my impression and did the editing with 3D softwares and autocad. send it to shapeway to print it in steel, the result was fantastic and fit is really good. However the shell was too low as such using a conventional 2 pin or MMCX would be challenging. For the past 1 week I was busying searching for fitear faceplate, unfortunately it is not easily available. so I constructed a faceplate with surface 2 pin. will send it out for printing soon. wish me luck
I've found a 15rpm synchronous motor and plan to follow your tutorial, just waiting for the deliver.
Man, you have some serious skills, that IEM looks beautiful!! I hope you're still working on the tutorial, even if it's slowly, I feel that we always have something more to learn from you.
Changing the subject a bit, I'm still having trouble curing some parts like the concha and crux of helix (according to google ) and getting inconsistent shells (too thick in some parts). I'm using agar-agar and already tried gelatin. I've read here that you use the hydrocolloid of lightning enterprises, is it REALLY better? Shipping is too damn expensive to my country :/
And another question, do you guys do the glycerin bath with the faceplates too? if not how do you manage the tacky layer?
I've been working on the idea of 3D printing as well, I'm waiting to hear back from a guy to use his scanner. I've been having a hard time finding services that will print shells in Detax (or similar medical grade materials) if you're not a high volume customer (audiologist). I'm curious to read about how using the metal sounds, & what challenges there might be in the build.
I've never seen the connectors put out on the faceplate like that, great idea.
Where did you buy this footplast? On official Dreve website there is still older S/IO, not SI/O lv.FYI, I switched Fotoplasts several months ago and the new formula cures sooooo much better, and has almost no tacky layer. Perfect smooth shells with glycerin bath 100% of the time.
This is the Fotoplast I switched too.
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I was planning on building myself another rotating rig but this time one that is rechargeable. Sometimes the one I already built has the power cord pulling it a bit and it annoys me.
If anyone has a recommendation on a DC motor alternative with low voltage you are welcome to post.
btw the list of ingredients on your fotoplast looks different than the "older" non - lv ones.