Home-Made IEMs
Sep 26, 2018 at 12:55 PM Post #7,696 of 15,989
Dental wax, hard one. The best temperature for mine is 78-82 Celsius degrees.

Also, did a great prototype. The patent copied from Tomekk - Thank You. Four driver setup (3300 vented for lows, 2389 for mids and E25ST as a tweeter) with fully configurable crossover (it was a little pain in the ass to fix little breadboards in the faceplates). Triple bore design, 2ID steel pipes each . Sound is amazing - fairly flat with gently reinforced lows, detailed, wide and warm, but not with lack of details.
IMG_4126.jpg


How did you do the opaquewhite shell could you tell about it
 
Sep 26, 2018 at 5:59 PM Post #7,698 of 15,989
I basically finish up my first set tonight, but had a strange hiccup right at the end... my lack 3 remains tacky and I have no idea why... I'm applying a thin layer with a brush, rotating it for a couple of minutes prior to cure and then curing for 1:30... yet they come out tacky. Any advice on what I may be doing wrong? So frustrating to get tripped up on a thing right at the very end...
 
Sep 26, 2018 at 6:05 PM Post #7,699 of 15,989
I basically finish up my first set tonight, but had a strange hiccup right at the end... my lack 3 remains tacky and I have no idea why... I'm applying a thin layer with a brush, rotating it for a couple of minutes prior to cure and then curing for 1:30... yet they come out tacky. Any advice on what I may be doing wrong? So frustrating to get tripped up on a thing right at the very end...

What is your curing unit?
 
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Sep 26, 2018 at 6:10 PM Post #7,701 of 15,989
36watt nail lamp

Cures my fotoplast shells in under 2 mins...
Did you used rotary motor during curing? If not, use it. I would try to cure it longer anyway, and think about possibilities, if light can not reach any area of headphone covered with lack 3 - simple mirror can help.Have similar issues in the past with not strong enough lamp.
 
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Sep 26, 2018 at 6:14 PM Post #7,702 of 15,989
Did you used rotary motor during curing? If not, use it. I would try to cure it longer anyway, and think about possibilities, if light can not reach any area of headphone covered with lack 3 - simple mirror can help.Have similar issues in the past with not strong enough lamp.
Thanks! I'll try go for longer... I was scared of the lack 3 yellowing (the shells are clear)...

I don't have a electric rotatory, but I stick a little handle on the face plate and rotate manually...
 
Sep 27, 2018 at 5:33 PM Post #7,705 of 15,989
Dental wax, hard one. The best temperature for mine is 78-82 Celsius degrees.

Also, did a great prototype. The patent copied from Tomekk - Thank You. Four driver setup (3300 vented for lows, 2389 for mids and E25ST as a tweeter) with fully configurable crossover (it was a little pain in the ass to fix little breadboards in the faceplates). Triple bore design, h . Sound is amazing - fairly flat with gently reinforced lows, detailed, wide and warm, but not with lack of details.
IMG_4126.jpg
they really look very Pro, tell us where you got the steel tube and something about the xover
 
Sep 27, 2018 at 5:55 PM Post #7,706 of 15,989
they really look very Pro, tell us where you got the steel tube and something about the xover
Steel pipes are just medical needles. Of course shortened and sanded properly, but still needles, about 2mm of inner diameter :D
Crossover: Resistor in series for 3300 wired in series (small one, about 1ohm - just to make bass a little more precise in my opinion), 2389 has both - resistor (around 4 ohms) and capacitor as hi pass filter connected in series (not sure now if 2389 is connected by centertap or not), and E25ST just hi pass with capacitor. Don't remember the values right now, but - you got the overview how crossover looks like. I am wondering to use second order hi pass due to phase matching - have to do some measurements. Overall very proper sounding pair of headphones.
 
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Sep 27, 2018 at 6:02 PM Post #7,707 of 15,989
Steel pipes are just medical needles. Of course shortened and sanded properly, but still needles, about 2mm of inner diameter :D
Crossover: Resistor in series for 3300 wired in series (small one, about 1ohm - just to make bass a little more precise in my opinion), 2389 has both - resistor (around 4 ohms) and capacitor as hi pass filter connected in series (not sure now if 2389 is connected by centertap or not), and E25ST just hi pass with capacitor. Don't remember the values right now, but - you got the overview how crossover looks like. I am wondering to use second order hi pass due to phase matching - have to do some measurements. Overall very proper sounding pair of headphones.

Thanks! Needles! Very good idea! :wink: yeah! Phase matching are the next level
 
Sep 28, 2018 at 4:27 AM Post #7,708 of 15,989
First pair done! By no means perfect, but happy with how these turned out as my first set. I'm also quite please with the sound (GV with green and red filter). I can't believe I actually did it after stumbling onto this tread for the first time more than 2 years ago!!


M`kay... this makes me just... jealous! -.-
I`ve gotta stop buying any more IEMs and get into this DIY customs! ;P
My current plan was to use KZ ZS4 shells (ZS3 for testing) and make a first try.
Now, You guys are talking lot about 3300(lows)+2389(mids)+E25ST(tweeter) and configurable crossovers - has someone got links to share where to start with crossover tuning and where to get parts?
This thread is sooo huge and I`ve lost all my previous bookmarks of important knowledge-filled posts ;(
 
Sep 28, 2018 at 4:51 AM Post #7,709 of 15,989
You guys are talking lot about 3300(lows)+2389(mids)+E25ST(tweeter)
A lot :D? This is only my one construction, let's say prototype, experiment :). I have read whole topic thoroughly and I did't notice any construction using this tweeter, and config.

If you have no experience in tuning and xo design, start with gaining some knowledge about passive circuits (RC filters). After that do some easier two or three way designs using Knowles BAs - they are also good, but way more available. On this thread there are many examples of designs with CI+TWFK, CI+ED, HODVTEC+TWFK and so on. Treat them as a startpoint, then experiment with circuits, connections, tubing, filtering, vents, understand impedance...
Starting with big amount of drivers at the beginning is the worst way to learn what is exactly happening while BA tuning.
Anyway - this is a long process :wink: Fingers crossed! Good luck in creating first pair. Show off the result at the end. Cheers! :smile_phones:
 
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Sep 29, 2018 at 7:19 AM Post #7,710 of 15,989
First pair done! By no means perfect, but happy with how these turned out as my first set. I'm also quite please with the sound (GV with green and red filter). I can't believe I actually did it after stumbling onto this tread for the first time more than 2 years ago!!

Wow that looks nice! How did you get the wood to merge so well with the shell without covering it with resin?
 

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