[Smgwee1]

I was playing around with the idea of metal shell IEM, so got a audiologist to scan my impression and did the editing with 3D softwares and autocad. send it to shapeway to print it in steel, the result was fantastic and fit is really good. However the shell was too low as such using a conventional 2 pin or MMCX would be challenging. For the past 1 week I was busying searching for fitear faceplate, unfortunately it is not easily available. so I constructed a faceplate with surface 2 pin. will send it out for printing soon. wish me luck

 

[zeed]

Hey guys!
Regarding acoustic tubing, are you using general pvc/silicone ones or medical grade ones, free of talk, sulfur and such things?

 

[Vetseun]

Wow that looks nice! How did you get the wood to merge so well with the shell without covering it with resin?

I used a dremel with a little sanding drum wheel thingy to first flush trim the face plate to the shell. I then took a 45deg cut all round the edge until I got the face plate edge down to the shell, following which I simply smoothed the transition.

When I applied the lacquer I covered the faceplate with bluetak/prestik to stop the lacquer from getting on the face plate and for attaching the little flat grinding wheel as a handle so that I could manually slowly rotate the shell for a couple of minutes before curing.

 

[BishopBautista]

First pair done! By no means perfect, but happy with how these turned out as my first set. I'm also quite please with the sound (GV with green and red filter). I can't believe I actually did it after stumbling onto this tread for the first time more than 2 years ago!!

They look fantastic great job, may I ask, where did you find that wood for the faceplates?

Thank you

 

[Vetseun]

It's a stabilized composite ply wood called Dymondwood - used in turning pens, handle making for knives, pistol grips etc. I had some kicking around from an older project. I don't know whether dymondwood is available anymore but just have a look at handle material blanks on knife supply websites... you'll find something similar I'm sure.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

The turning speed for the rotator that is sold from Egger is ~15rpm. 5-6rpm is too slow IMO

Securing the drivers and filling the canal is done with resin yes, with a syringe. as long as you don't touch it with your fingers the fact that it is tacky shouldn't matter for you.

I’ve been using the home made ones at that speed and a bit fast for over a year with exceptional results. Honestly speaking any speed will essentially work as its allowing the Lacquer to settle.

I’ve been doing 1-2 pairs a week consistently and the idea behind my rotors is that its a DIY tool made at home that has helped me make professional grade IEM’s. The concept fits well with the DIY community!

I say invest in a motor and make one yourself. Save the money and invest it into material and or UV cute lite. IMO!

 

[Lucas Taboada]

I’ve been using the home made ones at that speed and a bit fast for over a year with exceptional results. Honestly speaking any speed will essentially work as its allowing the Lacquer to settle.

I’ve been doing 1-2 pairs a week consistently and the idea behind my rotors is that its a DIY tool made at home that has helped me make professional grade IEM’s. The concept fits well with the DIY community!

I say invest in a motor and make one yourself. Save the money and invest it into material and or UV cute lite. IMO!

I've found a 15rpm synchronous motor and plan to follow your tutorial, just waiting for the deliver.

Man, you have some serious skills, that IEM looks beautiful!! I hope you're still working on the tutorial, even if it's slowly, I feel that we always have something more to learn from you.

Changing the subject a bit, I'm still having trouble curing some parts like the concha and crux of helix (according to google ) and getting inconsistent shells (too thick in some parts). I'm using agar-agar and already tried gelatin. I've read here that you use the hydrocolloid of lightning enterprises, is it REALLY better? Shipping is too damn expensive to my country :/

And another question, do you guys do the glycerin bath with the faceplates too? if not how do you manage the tacky layer?

 

[jbr1971]

I was playing around with the idea of metal shell IEM, so got a audiologist to scan my impression and did the editing with 3D softwares and autocad. send it to shapeway to print it in steel, the result was fantastic and fit is really good. However the shell was too low as such using a conventional 2 pin or MMCX would be challenging. For the past 1 week I was busying searching for fitear faceplate, unfortunately it is not easily available. so I constructed a faceplate with surface 2 pin. will send it out for printing soon. wish me luck

I've been working on the idea of 3D printing as well, I'm waiting to hear back from a guy to use his scanner. I've been having a hard time finding services that will print shells in Detax (or similar medical grade materials) if you're not a high volume customer (audiologist). I'm curious to read about how using the metal sounds, & what challenges there might be in the build.

I've never seen the connectors put out on the faceplate like that, great idea.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

I've found a 15rpm synchronous motor and plan to follow your tutorial, just waiting for the deliver.

Man, you have some serious skills, that IEM looks beautiful!! I hope you're still working on the tutorial, even if it's slowly, I feel that we always have something more to learn from you.

Changing the subject a bit, I'm still having trouble curing some parts like the concha and crux of helix (according to google ) and getting inconsistent shells (too thick in some parts). I'm using agar-agar and already tried gelatin. I've read here that you use the hydrocolloid of lightning enterprises, is it REALLY better? Shipping is too damn expensive to my country :/

And another question, do you guys do the glycerin bath with the faceplates too? if not how do you manage the tacky layer?

Krystalloid is definitely the way to go if you can’t get it, I would use gelatin. I have a couple methods I use for Faceplates and I do not use glycerin to second cure the Faceplates.

The method I do most is really simple. I use a piece of glass from a 4x6 picture frame. I pour the material on the clean piece of glass and kind of twist it until it spreads out. Remember, Fotoplast cures hard without the tacky layer where there is no oxygen present, so where the Fotoplast is touching the glass it fully cures with no issues. I use an ultraviolet flashlight to cure it, and then I will use a sharp edge to peel from the glass.




If I need the Faceplate to be thinner or really flat I pour the Fotoplast on the glass then I place another piece of glass on it the flatten it really good like this and cure with UV flashlight. The UV flashlight I use is a alldaymall wF-501B I bought the model that had a rechargeable battery. I’ve had it for years. I use this same flashlight when I fill the canals with Fotoplast using a syringe to lock in the acoustic tubing. I have since purchased a wand but find the flashlight better, maybe because of habit I have learned how to cure effectively with it.







FYI, I switched Fotoplasts several months ago and the new formula cures sooooo much better, and has almost no tacky layer. Perfect smooth shells with glycerin bath 100% of the time.

This is the Fotoplast I switched too.




P.S. yes I am still working on the retro build tutorial, I got a new job 9months ago and it has really taken so much time away from me and with the word getting out and me building ears order after order I find my time being spread super thin!! It’s coming together. I am through the gelatin investments.

I hope you find value in this info!

 

[Shilohsjustice]

I've been working on the idea of 3D printing as well, I'm waiting to hear back from a guy to use his scanner. I've been having a hard time finding services that will print shells in Detax (or similar medical grade materials) if you're not a high volume customer (audiologist). I'm curious to read about how using the metal sounds, & what challenges there might be in the build.

I've never seen the connectors put out on the faceplate like that, great idea.

Look up on google, build 3d scanner using old Xbox Kinect from an Xbox 360. There are tutorials all over that render HD renderings from the sensor. I was getting heavily into the 3d for months researching and almost pulled the trigger but didn’t because the material costs at the time was crazy. I purchase from what was Warner techcare and they now sell the 3d medical grade material for hearing aide applications.

 

[Jedrula1]

FYI, I switched Fotoplasts several months ago and the new formula cures sooooo much better, and has almost no tacky layer. Perfect smooth shells with glycerin bath 100% of the time.

This is the Fotoplast I switched too.

Where did you buy this footplast? On official Dreve website there is still older S/IO, not SI/O lv.

 

[ForceMajeure]

I was planning on building myself another rotating rig but this time one that is rechargeable. Sometimes the one I already built has the power cord pulling it a bit and it annoys me.
If anyone has a recommendation on a DC motor alternative with low voltage you are welcome to post.

btw the list of ingredients on your fotoplast looks different than the "older" non - lv ones.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Where did you buy this footplast? On official Dreve website there is still older S/IO, not SI/O lv.

I buy my material from Warner techcare. It’s $186 for 500g bottle.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

I was planning on building myself another rotating rig but this time one that is rechargeable. Sometimes the one I already built has the power cord pulling it a bit and it annoys me.
If anyone has a recommendation on a DC motor alternative with low voltage you are welcome to post.

btw the list of ingredients on your fotoplast looks different than the "older" non - lv ones.

The formula is different, it cures more consistent, it’s clearer as well. Less tacky layer and with glycerin bath it cures like glass on the inside of the shell.

 

[Bassiklee]

I'll have to check out that new Fotoplast. Since the topic of scanning and printing came up, has anyone tried that cyclop scanner yet?

The Xbox Kinect option looks great for DIY types. I lean more towards plug and play. Just curious. It's getting closer to the point where we can get into this at home for well under a grand