[Wgibson]

Piece of vinyl tube, adjust length (volume) till your coupling resonance is where you want (8-10khz). Any measurement is better than nothing, at least you can be sure they match left and right.

Edit: I ended up using a cut down kz starlirline tip to fit tight in the vinyl tube, and then you adjust insertion depth to hit your preferred resonant peak.

 

[talyak]

Piece of vinyl tube, adjust length (volume) till your coupling resonance is where you want (8-10khz). Any measurement is better than nothing, at least you can be sure they match left and right.

awesome! nice suggestion. the dayton imm6 is a little expensive where i am (like 2/3rds the price of just getting an iec 711 knockoff on aliexpress), but ive got other full-range mics i can use. i can also calibrate on my blessing 2 dusk, so ill test until i get a result similar to a reviewers measurements, then will be able to test the rab-p etc.
edit: nevermind, found a store that sells them cheap enough
edit2: ive already got two of the apple dongles (usb c not lightning, but its almost as good), so this will be perfect

 

[BobbyKa]

Piece of vinyl tube, adjust length (volume) till your coupling resonance is where you want (8-10khz). Any measurement is better than nothing, at least you can be sure they match left and right.

Sorry, I am a total noob to this. Got an imm6 but didn't tried yet. Also need to decide which software to use (Windows on laptop or Android on mobile. How to meassure the coupling resonance?

 

[talyak]

Sorry, I am a total noob to this. Got an imm6 but didn't tried yet. Also need to decide which software to use (Windows on laptop or Android on mobile. How to meassure the coupling resonance?

searching imm-6 on google/youtube will give some good results on how to use it

edit: the resonance should show up as a large peak in the treble. you just vary the insertion depth to get it in the realm of 8k-10k and youll have decent measurements for everything to the left of that peak. Room EQ Wizard seems the preferred software for beginners

edit2: the basic rule of FR measurement is that results dont really compare directly between different people/testing setups. so its best to measure some IEMs you like to see how they show up on your measurements, then compare new IEMs to that as long as you keep your testing method consistent.

 

[talyak]

im thinking that because the rab-p uses 3mm OD tubing, and i have some triple flange tips with a 3-4mm ID, i could have the tubing of the rab extend into the bore of the triple flange tips. allowing for the iem to only have the connector and half the driver sticking further out than the tips. the total length of the rab-p tubing is almost the same as the tips ive got, so i could probs ditch having a normal nozzle entirely. allowing for a super deep insertion like the etymotics, while keeping the rab-p tuning. the etymotics tend to basically disappear into your ear canal if its long enough, so i should be able to get the full pinna effect on the transparency mode. we shall see if the actual sound quality is up to the standards im look for tho

i might also try the fed drivers in a similar format. see if i like that ferrofluid sound. i might also try to add an EQ base shelf on the rab-p. i can test that pretty easily with wavelet, and if i could probs add dsp to the tws software.

my plan is kinda a bit silly. looking for a massive amount of noise isolation, but also maximising the quality of transparency mode. it kinda just feels like being able to control my perceptions of ambient sounds at will. may be the best way to handle my sound sensitivities. plus manage my hearing damage + tinnitus while also having a good music production/listening experience.

im also gonna have to come up with a lower latency sound system for them, given the fact that the latency on bluetooth is awful, and makes music production and performance difficult. tuning of the iems is barely the start of this project, but i also realise that a ton of folk do that for their whole job/hobby lol

 

[GeneBush]

Hi guys!
I found out that the 4 drivers LS FWEK-42017 are the same as the one used in Bellsing 6 and have the same crossover.
I have some stock DTEC 30008 and i will try to replicate a bellsing 6. Will let you know how it turns out.
Kudos

 

[BadgerMcBadger]

hey, ive been wanting to make a single driver ciem with the raf driver and i wonder which tube diameter and dampers i should use? does outer diameter matter?

 

[talyak]

hey, ive been wanting to make a single driver ciem with the raf driver and i wonder which tube diameter and dampers i should use? does outer diameter matter?

as i understand it (from reading through literal years of posts here and fairly decent understanding of physics lol), the ID, length, and (to a lesser extent) material are what really matter in tuning with tubing. but if you are starting out, it might be worth using a recipe that has already been tested here. thats what im doing with the rab-p and final 2. i plan to adjust to taste only after building at least one pair.

edit: the rab-p is a 1 ba design by @dhruvmeena96, but it can be a little daunting to start with it as it requires very specific tubing lengths and a zobel. the final 2 is an older 2 ba design also by dhruv, that is more simple to implement, and has apparently incredible technical performance. tho it does use more expensive drivers

 

[talyak]

im planning to make a super simple one with the fed-30048 driver from knowles. and nothing more than a 12-16mm (dependent on testing) 2mm ID tube. i cant speak to the tuning, as i have yet to actually make it, but if the final 2 is anything to go by, it will be a pretty solid super simple 1 ba IEM that should be good at most things other than bass.

 

[IEMbiker]

hey, ive been wanting to make a single driver ciem with the raf driver and i wonder which tube diameter and dampers i should use? does outer diameter matter?

you can try this tubing design for Rab-p from Druv.
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/home-made-iems.430688/post-15229987

 

[talyak]

i just found a crime against humanity that is clearly a diy iem from someone that hasnt heard of the concept of tuning, this is the fr:

edit: (no i didnt take a picture of my screen, this was on the actual product page on aliexpress))

 

[BadgerMcBadger]

whats a zobel

 

[talyak]

whats a zobel

its a circuit that flattens the impedence characteristics of a driver. making it less dependent on having a good source

 

[talyak]

this is a more detailed post on the tubing for the rab-p. the second example is the easiest way to do it

@Firedrops This is how i came out with my tubing.

Base on the numbers, this is what i came out.


What went wrong is that I uses too many tubes. And due to human errors, the whole setup end up longer than what I planned about 2-3mm. And since there are so many parts, its hard for me to glue everything together without risking it falling apart during assembling and troubleshooting.

So I thought "What if i use a longer 2mm ID tube and overlap/wrap/cover/protect the whole setup?" (Give the hard work to the most lazy human on earth to do, and he will make it simplest for you.)
And this is the new tubing.



After all the calculation, I started making them.
And this is how it look like after its finished, I did not include the damper so that everyone can see clearly. You can see my 2.0mm ID is longer than usual, because WHY NOT? The longer 2mm ID is to help with friction so that they don't fall apart. This whole thing can hold themselves together without any glue, very good for prototyping.

As @dhruvmeena96 mentioned, my 3.00mm ID tube is actually my earphone nozzle.
These it how it look like after putting together.

 

[BadgerMcBadger]

oh, like power factor correction?

its a circuit that flattens the impedence characteristics of a driver. making it less dependent on having a good source