[eunice]

Hey Eunice,

Looking at the BS6 + Zobel build here - which 25ohm resistor did you end up using?

Struggling to find a 25 ohm unit on element14 or similar in a SMD package - I've got some 1206 25.5's showing that I'll probably end up getting though.

I use two 1206 resistors in series, like 10 and 15 Ohm.

 

[icarusforde]

I use two 1206 resistors in series, like 10 and 15 Ohm.

Why that didn't occur to me... *sigh*

I'm off to have more coffee haha.

Don't have a photo of how you're doing the circuits, do you? Are you just soldering the 1206's straight in line, or do you have a PCB you're using?

 

[eunice]

I solder straight in line and then cover in some resin for a bit of extra rigidity

 

[icarusforde]

Tidy! Thanks very much.

 

[ForceMajeure]

I tried with a resin from 3dresyns but didn't like the results, this latest test was with Dentona 3D Optiprint Guide 385. It's used to make dental surgical guides, figured I can't get safer than that! Bought it off amazon.

You could use the regular stuff (egger lp/h, dreve) and try to find the right exposure time.

 

[alanwcruz]

Is it this one? http://shop.dentona.de/epages/Dentona.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Dentona/Products/48110

Nope, it's this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W5R22MZ/

The one you linked is for making dental models, more for show and not for direct prolonged contact with human body.

 

[alanwcruz]

You could use the regular stuff (egger lp/h, dreve) and try to find the right exposure time.

I tried very high exposure times for Fotoplast but could never get anything printed... Result was always a big blob that stuck to the printers FEP layer.

 

[eunice]

I tried very high exposure times for Fotoplast but could never get anything printed... Result was always a big blob that stuck to the printers FEP layer.

You probably saved me a boatload of money there, I was about to try fotoplast. Thank you very much.

 

[ForceMajeure]

I tried very high exposure times for Fotoplast but could never get anything printed... Result was always a big blob that stuck to the printers FEP layer.

Maybe one with lower viscosityshould be better. (Fotoplast LV is Low Viscosity btw).
also temperatures play a role since when colder it's more viscous.

what about pro3dure stuff? they should have a resin for dlp applications iirc. maybe you can acquire it

 

[et.haan]

What tool/app is the best to make graphs

Lol man, you'll get terrible readings with this, to be honest. You are trying to replicate a IEC711. This what you need to know: a 1/2 in tube around the Dayton mic. You can expand your mics diameter with tape, as the tube is too large for the mic. Then, make your tube 15.75mm long. This is the essence of a 711. Make it taper down to say, 1/3, maybe 1/4 of an inch, and then add a second tube for inserting your drivers. The taper must be at 90 degrees, and the whole thing must be sealed.

 

[et.haan]

I solder straight in line and then cover in some resin for a bit of extra rigidity

Lol bro, easy on the glue

Nice idea on the crossovers, with them all soldered together, and sealed together with shrinkwrap. Its what JH does.

 

[et.haan]

I see a lot of new folks here, all at once. Welcome! However, you guys all came in so fast, and at the exact same time, I have got to ask where you guys came from?

P.S. Dont forget to hit reply when you are responding to someone, so we know who you are talking to. You can multiquote, as well. Or just be lazy, like me.

When I do multiquote, I reply to the first person, copy it (including the embedded text), and then hit reply to the next guy. I then paste in what I copied earlier. Theres another way to do it, but it doesnt work that well (for me)

 

[eunice]

Lol bro, easy on the glue
.

The tubes are glued to the driver using loctite 401. Then I cover that in dreve silicone glue.

I had so many CIEMs fail due to losing the seal between tube and driver and that’s what ended up being reliable, so I stick to it.

I think there are two challenges:

1) you need a glue joint between driver and tube that is strong enough to withstand the air pressure from inserting and removing the ciem from the ear and of course the sound pressure itself.

2) the glue must withstand the solvents in the resin from filling up the ear canal until it is fully cured.

It took me a while and lots of frustration until I found a combination that works.

The silicone glue also can potentially soften the impact on the driver when the ciems Fall on the ground.

Most probably there is a better and easier solution but I got tired of trying.

I don’t use shrink wrap though, it’s just a drop of resin and a UV torch.

 

[icarusforde]

I see a lot of new folks here, all at once. Welcome! However, you guys all came in so fast, and at the exact same time, I have got to ask where you guys came from?

P.S. Dont forget to hit reply when you are responding to someone, so we know who you are talking to. You can multiquote, as well. Or just be lazy, like me.

When I do multiquote, I reply to the first person, copy it (including the embedded text), and then hit reply to the next guy. I then paste in what I copied earlier. Theres another way to do it, but it doesnt work that well (for me)

I've been floating around the thread for the last year or so, but just got around to posting. *shrug*

Been fiddling with the process of building shells over the last year or so, finally getting somewhere where the results are usable, but I haven't been applying a lot of time to it. Just dropped another absurd amount of money on a new set of UE Live's as well, so figured I should really work out how to make the damn things so I don't buy any more... Plus, there's a good collection of band members and vocalists that I know who've asked if I'm ever actually going to build them some customs, so might be a nice new year resolution.

Unfortunately, getting hold of some stuff down in NZ is a pain (looking at you, Lack 3!) but thankfully, I've got a friend who's mother's coming over from China soon, so thank you Taobao...

Hopefully will be able to add to the content here once it's all coming together on my end!

 

[stephensynanta16]

Thank you very much man! I have a pair of 32063 RABs only, and don't think 3 tubes can be fit in my ears unfortunately. I would like it tho. Will try to fiddle with some test shells to be sure.

May I ask what is the improvement of your last version frome the one on the picture?

For sound signature I love my pair of akg k240 for example, somewhat warm-neutral, love details, not a bass-head. Is this MASM7 is the right way to go?

The improvement: with 3 bore, u can tune MASM7 freely to your taste. And the most important was, since we had less damping on the TWFK, it fixes the last-gen MASM7 weakness: lack of treble

MASM7 tri-bore was quite flexible to tune, if u prefer less bass, u can try:
DTEC: white @ 10mm, brown @20mm

it'll lessen the bass, and because now dtec also singing on the mid, u'll get extra resolution on the mid because now it has 5 driver singing on the mid (2xFK, 2xDTEC, RAB). But it'll shift the vocal to the warm-ish.

My recomendation: buy extra damper with another color, you can shift the whole tonality by playing with damper on the DTEC & TWFK.
Less damping on DTEC will shift tonality to warm, less bass, but will get more resolution on mid.
More damping on DTEC do the opposite,

U can go undamped on the TWFK if u really love those treble

My current masm7 configuration:
RAB 32033(i stick a cloth on the vent to make it sounds like a 32257)
10ohm before BZ6 zobel
TWFK: white @ 10mm
DTEC: orange @ 20mm

Try white + green/red on the DTEC, mine which use orange, lose a little bit of those gorgeous mid resolution.

My head was still not able to cope with the bass, having a bass which doesnt affect/bleed into mid in any way, feels weird (too HIFI, LOL)