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Home-Made IEMs
Dec 12, 2019 at 4:02 AM Post #10,621 of 15,989
Hard to tell. Depends on the forward voltage drop of your LED. Better drive LED using a constant current source or a specific LED driver - or get LED strips with included drivers.
But this is a thread about building IEMs, you’ll be better off in a general electronics forum for this particular issue, there also are a ton of YouTube videos on the subject of driving LEDs.
 
Dec 12, 2019 at 5:06 AM Post #10,622 of 15,989
et.haan said:
Here is what I am thinking - Sonion 38D1x - parallel (6 ohms DC)
zobel - 135uF cap (130uF MLCC's will be bought) + 7.625ohm resistor (7.68 will be bought
Lowpassed at 150hz - (RC components will be bought once impedance with Zobel is mapped

Sonion 2389D - series - I still need inductance values for Zobel (8 in series ohms DC) (I contacted Sonion)
Bandpass from ~300hz to 7khz

Connect these two in series for 36ohm AC resistance average

L pad or U pad (would appreciate recommendation) both 15db

Est65da01 highpassed 8khz
I read somewhere it doesnt need zobel, and besides, the Inductance looks pretty good

Connect these two, in series, for a 56ohm output at the 2pin

Anybody see any problems

Impedence will be pretty flat

Only 3b/octave, unless you guys think otherwise
Click to expand...

Sonion 38D1X has 12,5 ohm DC paralel...
 
Dec 12, 2019 at 5:14 AM Post #10,623 of 15,989
alanwcruz said:
@et.haan Elegoo Mars using Elegoo transparent blue.

@eunice yup, used photogrammetry, though I had to paint my impressions with some green and black chalk spray paint to get good results, comfort wise they are much more comfortable that my previous manually made shells, but I think this has more to do with the digital post processing on the scans since I apply a coat of lacquer after everything is printed and assembled. Assembly is a million times easier, having perfect bores and consistent shell width makes things very very easy.
Click to expand...

Project looks cool, but sorry to tell you you need to throw away the shells as soon as possible as your ears are more valuable. You need to use biocompatible resins like
https://www.detax.de/en/content/3D-Produkte.php
https://www.3dresyns.com/pages/bio-compatible-3dresyns

Resin you used is not skin safe even after curing and specially when its used in ears.
 
Dec 12, 2019 at 5:40 AM Post #10,624 of 15,989
eunice said:
Hard to tell. Depends on the forward voltage drop of your LED. Better drive LED using a constant current source or a specific LED driver - or get LED strips with included drivers.
But this is a thread about building IEMs, you’ll be better off in a general electronics forum for this particular issue, there also are a ton of YouTube videos on the subject of driving LEDs.
Click to expand...
Thank you man. The power source is MEAN WELL IDLV-45-12 and actually sold as a LED driver. So hope it'll work out. I asked here cause it's for a curing chamber for iems and there are so many folks who knows something about electronics :)

My leds are those :https://eu.mouser.com/datasheet/2/239/LTPL-C034UVHXXX UV 3535 Lens type Series_Ver3.4_20-1108924.pdf
 
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Dec 12, 2019 at 6:12 AM Post #10,625 of 15,989
LED drivers are a constant current source, so you should be safe with your schematics - if you carefully crank up the current from the source. Put a multimeter in series to one of your leds in amp mode to make sure to not go over the rated mA of the LED (it’s a PWM so make sure your multimeter can read that accurately, if it says true rms it will be able to read it). The resistors are required if you wire LED in parallel, as LED reduce their resistance when they get hot, therefore drawing more power and getting even hotter - thermal runaway. The constant current source only regulates the current at the output and the resistor alleviates the thermal runaway a bit. Ideally you would wire all LED in series without a resistor and let the driver do its job, but for that the driver needs to be able to deliver the voltage required (Vout needs to be larger than the forward voltage of one LED + number of LEDs * voltage drop across one LED). If your source cannot deliver that voltage you need to wire it the way you drew it. Then you should be good as long as you don’t turn up the power too much.
@All, sorry for bloating this thread, but since it’s about building a curing chamber it’s remotely related to the topic.
 
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Dec 12, 2019 at 6:16 AM Post #10,626 of 15,989
eunice said:
LED drivers are a constant current source, so you should be safe with your schematics - if you carefully crank up the current from the source. Put a multimeter in series to one of your leds in amp mode to make sure to not go over the rated mA of the LED (it’s a PWM so make sure your multimeter can read that accurately, if it says true rms it will be able to read it). The resistors are required if you wire LED in parallel, as LED reduce their resistance when they get hot, therefore drawing more power and getting even hotter - thermal runaway. The constant current source only regulates the current at the output and the resistor alleviates the thermal runaway a bit. You should be good as long as you don’t turn up the power too much.
@All, sorry for bloating this thread, but since it’s about building a curing chamber it’s remotely related to the topic.
Click to expand...
Thank you man, you've been very helpful!
 
Dec 12, 2019 at 8:12 AM Post #10,627 of 15,989
Dec 12, 2019 at 8:36 PM Post #10,632 of 15,989
I just want to say a quick thank you to everybody on this forum - I am sorry for posting a ton (I think I won the race to a 100+ Head-fier) like its a groupchat, but there is so much great information, and so much to learn.

You guys answer my questions, no matter how dumb they are, and the community can learn from each others mistakes. I think it is great that we are this active - not only do we learn combinations that work well - but those that dont. It can save all of us lots of money.

If the members of this thread held a branch ownership of an IEM company, I think we would have a lineup that would be pretty damn good.

On a side note - the milled earbuds are going on a temporary break - I broke a bit (still learning about toolpaths), and thanks to the extremely slow process of ordering something with grant money, it may be a while. However, I am experimenting with wood and other bits for now.

I also think that we should work on getting group projects better coverage- like the MASM series, and the andro killer dhruv and I are interested in working on. However, t it should be easier to access, so newbies dont have to sift through the 700 pages that this thread is.

side note 2- I am remaking my 711 out of walnut, as the the foam Nerf bullet may have damped too much - and I feel the length of it contributes negatively to its inaccuracy. Probably because the hot glue that I added, to give the blu-tac something to bond to, makes it too long.

edit- I also find it funny almost all of us type in these short paragraph things, that are a line or two long
 
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Dec 13, 2019 at 3:49 AM Post #10,633 of 15,989
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