[eunice]

@dhruvmeena96 I would be interested in experimenting with a spiral damper, would you give me the STL files as a starting point?

 

[wolkegeist]

Damm bro, you also going pen and paper style..
Well for precaution, spiral bass damper can go out of phase easily due to vortices channelling and very long length.

Do use a normal ID tube after spiral damper to really control phase.
Second, the low pass is not super effective(we use sonion accupass woofer to really get it low pass.)

Do use a damper to compensate that too.

Spiral damper is for getting a desired slope for damping or low pass to act properly. Spiral damping also accelerates the particle in particle theory of sound. As outward length is more than inward length, speeds up the air perception(ear are too sensitive at everything), so don't be afraid to use a damper witshell



And fitting inductors dude

How gigantic is the shell


And do check the DCR of inductors

He he I’m more of the pen and paper guy than digital. Even when drawing composition/lettering I always prefer inkjng than digital.

Can you explain further about acupass filter? I’m thinking of 35mm with green filter at spout with them

 

[dhruvmeena96]

@dhruvmeena96 I would be interested in experimenting with a spiral damper, would you give me the STL files as a starting point?

Ask @Jedrula1

He he I’m more of the pen and paper guy than digital. Even when drawing composition/lettering I always prefer inkjng than digital.

Can you explain further about acupass filter? I’m thinking of 35mm with green filter at spout with them

Accupas is an indirect resonator with damper preinstalled

This makes work easier

 

[wolkegeist]

Ask @Jedrula1

Accupas is an indirect resonator with damper preinstalled

This makes work easier

so it means that i need to make a resonator chamber and then add damper? i've finished drawing the bass acoustic low pass filter, I'll go print it very soon

 

[dhruvmeena96]

so it means that i need to make a resonator chamber and then add damper? i've finished drawing the bass acoustic low pass filter, I'll go print it very soon

Sonion accupass on 38X series driver is cavity and a 0.03761 +/- 0.007 tube(the red thing is not damper, just pressed it and also poked it...its plastic surrounding the inner tube). The normal spout is 0.96mm with an inner tube

 

[wolkegeist]

Sonion accupass on 38X series driver is cavity and a 0.03761 +/- 0.007 tube(the red thing is not damper, just pressed it and also poked it...its plastic surrounding the inner tube). The normal spout is 0.96mm with an inner tube

You mean the 38D1XJ007Mi/8a? It's the only driver I found with Acupass on it. Hmmm So do I need to switch from DTEC to Sonion 3800 with acupass to really he using the spiral damper?

 

[dhruvmeena96]

You mean the 38D1XJ007Mi/8a? It's the only driver I found with Acupass on it. Hmmm So do I need to switch from DTEC to Sonion 3800 with acupass to really he using the spiral damper?

Yup

Well, you can use DTEC too, but you will need crossover too

 

[dhruvmeena96]

https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/321562/crossover-frequency-in-rc-filter-circuits

For those who want to understand the MATLAB simulation, crossover etc.

Its better explained on thread..

I want someone who knows MATLAB more than me.. Seriously

And start a healthy discussion on IEM parameters here

I can't rely on Comsol for everything



OK, now for some clarification

Spiral damper has some purpose
1. When we align phase with spiral damper, we align the space domain(wave theory of sound) but actually make the speaker itself late(particle theory of sound). This keeps phase intact but gives the out of head experience as the subwoofer energy moved particles need to travel more distance.

This is the subwoofer effect in shure SE846 and Fearless ACME.

The bass doesn't get concentrated in between head as the time of other driver is more instant compared to subwoofer.

2. It does some low pass to an extent but lemme tell you, some frequency creeps in, so if you don't have accupass Sonion woofer(38D1XJ007Mi/8), please cross it or use dampers.

 

[wolkegeist]

@dhruvmeena96
Today I met the great engineer of Custom In Ear #TXN audio (best SOUNDING in-ear lab in VN), and he told me to read this book:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0...63PfxHTtXm5AiC19QZwMvZ6K9Y1oNDPAN88UmdG6KBFN4

Pretty interesting at the first few pages. You guy should try it.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

@dhruvmeena96
Today I met the great engineer of Custom In Ear #TXN audio (best SOUNDING in-ear lab in VN), and he told me to read this book:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0...63PfxHTtXm5AiC19QZwMvZ6K9Y1oNDPAN88UmdG6KBFN4

Pretty interesting at the first few pages. You guy should try it.

Have this book already..

Hahahahhahaha

(Well its a thread, but still keep a secret....I have a free PDF)


I have 4th edition though...


Great read and amazing content which helps in tuning the sound

 

[fredcrys]

Hi @Ivan TT

I am pursuing the same project (IEMs with Bellsing 10013) and after many research and wisdom from the community, I was pointed to the same direction you took 25Ohm/22uF Zobel. Now my question is what kind of resistor and capacitors you used? When I say kind, I mean the style/model of them. Every time I search for them, big modules show up, I know they will not fit the IEMs. Would you be so kind as to point me in the right direction? The image is not too clear on that detail.

Thank you very much
Fred

Bellsing 6 driver 10013 is badass!

I love its sound very, very much, lowest lows I’ve heard from BA, highs are a touch too hot but red damper makes them just right, otherwise very balanced lively signature. 25Ohm/22uF Zobel improves things even further. Better than 10025 Bellsing 5 driver.

PS: ended up using two dampers in series, red close to the drivers, white just outside of tubing ear canal side. @eunice was pointing out mids lacking a bit (compared to excellent lows and highs), this approach improves them a bit and tames highs down on hotter sounding tracks.

 

[eunice]

Hi @Ivan TT

I am pursuing the same project (IEMs with Bellsing 10013) and after many research and wisdom from the community, I was pointed to the same direction you took 25Ohm/22uF Zobel. Now my question is what kind of resistor and capacitors you used? When I say kind, I mean the style/model of them. Every time I search for them, big modules show up, I know they will not fit the IEMs. Would you be so kind as to point me in the right direction? The image is not too clear on that detail.

Thank you very much
Fred

@Ivan TT came up with the design, but I have built a few of them until now.

My advice: Search for 1206 ceramic capacitor (like https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cYHfRiXO )
and 1206 resistor or 0805 resistor.
In principle smaller form factor equals less parasitics (less inductance, less series resistance), but smaller than 0805 is hard to solder by hand. 1206 is not too hard to solder.

The resistors you will get with 1% tolerance, that’s good enough. The caps however come at 10% tolerance, but often times they are worse than that. That is not good enough, so I use a multimeter with capacitance measurement (it is rated at 1%) to find matching pairs of caps.

You can use tantalum caps but as they are polarized you should wire two of them in series with polarity reversed, which results in half the capacitance. That way you might get around the need to measure your caps, but you need more caps and more soldering.

Hope this helps.

 

[Ivan TT]

Hi @Ivan TT

I am pursuing the same project (IEMs with Bellsing 10013) and after many research and wisdom from the community, I was pointed to the same direction you took 25Ohm/22uF Zobel. Now my question is what kind of resistor and capacitors you used? When I say kind, I mean the style/model of them. Every time I search for them, big modules show up, I know they will not fit the IEMs. Would you be so kind as to point me in the right direction? The image is not too clear on that detail.

Thank you very much
Fred

@eunice covered it really well.
Personally I used 22uF 0805 x5r caps and x2 50Ohm resistors in parallel soldered together (only resistors are paralleled of course) and then directly to one of caps terminals and then soldered terminals of this construct to litz wire that hooks drivers to mmcx connector, then insulated using bondic.

 

[fredcrys]

WOW Thank you guys @eunice and @Ivan TT.

I thought I knew electronics, but you guys take the ribbon. I saw those resistors and capacitors in my research, but though they were too small, now I know those are the ones I need. As far as connecting them I am planning in connecting them in parallel as @Ivan TT suggested, so far so good, but when you say "I used 22uF 0805 x5r caps and x2 50Ohm resistors" do you mean five capacitors plus two resistors in one IEM?

This is the schematic I have for the build. Changing the resistor from 25ohms to 50ohms

 

[Ivan TT]

"I used 22uF 0805 x5r caps and x2 50Ohm resistors"

Sorry, to make it clear:
1. x5r is a type of dielectric, while it does not have thermal stability of COG or x7r capacitors, it does the trick - google: 0805 22uf x5r for examples/pricing
2. I used x2 50Ohm resistors in parallel, giving 25Ohm resistance but this approach also improves wattage (x2) and tolerance (I think I used 1% resistors)
3. Sorry, don't see the image you attached but @eunice posted schematics in this thread and it is available on soundlink's AE page.