[raptor18]

If we want a pressure pot, maybe we can use cheap pressure sprays.
 
https://www.google.se/search?q=pressure+spray&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiYne_2otPJAhWJZCYKHdJiAuUQ_AUIBygB&biw=1680&bih=989
 
The tough part here is finding space inside the pressure spray for the molds Some of them have big openings though and the molds are really small. We need to figure out how to lower them into the spray.
They build around 2-3 bar which we need and they are pumped with hands.
 
This one seems to have a big opening and is 5 euro
 
http://www.jula.se/catalog/tradgard/tradgardsredskap/ograsbekampning/trycksprutor/tryckspruta-759004/

 

[raptor18]

I'm sorry for sparking such enthusiastic conversation around coloring and finishing of shells!

It is also safe to say that wall thickness, quality of waxing, and or colloid quality are extremely dependent on the tools and or materials in which you are using to create your shells.

I have noticed as I upgrade my material and equipment the quality of my results also improve. Gelatin only took me so far and since moving to the hydrocolloid my investments and shells have been more consistent. Moving from a small nail light to a two light 365nm light actually used in the industry the consistency of my shells has drastically improved. Going from nail uv to fotoplast has taken me even further along my journey.

I would say talented individuals will achieve results like wizard with just about any resource, but guys like me need good tools to assist in achieving those results.

My next purchase - pressure tank for removing bubbles in my colloid impressions to allow uv to pass through even more efficiently, also to combat with the inhibitor layer left by the dreve. (I do the glycerin bath cure but still struggle with getting it completely cured, I want them to look crystal clear like some UE's)

I can say for those out there dabbling with making your own CIEM's who have not yet posted comments, invest in some good tools and use the correct product, if you do this out of the gate you will save tons of trial and error because uv nail gel reacts vary different than egger or fotoplast and I had to learn my technique all over again. Good info today!!

 
I don't get it, the nail lights are 365 nm?
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/36w-Eu-Plug-White-And-Pink-Color-Uv-Lamp-Nail-Art-Dryer-Gel-Curing-Light/32407717238.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.47.aOOfA2&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_1_79_78_77_82_80_62_61,searchweb201644_0,searchweb201560_5
 
And all the instructions i've read, none of them mentions that colloids needs pressure to form a bubble free mold.
 
Also, if you read the egger uv LP/H instructions, it says to cure a second time with LP cleaner, which seems to be glycerin. The second method is to use it under nitrogen pressure however it seems as if the first method is the preferred one.

 

[piotrus-g]

I'm sorry for sparking such enthusiastic conversation around coloring and finishing of shells!

It is also safe to say that wall thickness, quality of waxing, and or colloid quality are extremely dependent on the tools and or materials in which you are using to create your shells.

I have noticed as I upgrade my material and equipment the quality of my results also improve. Gelatin only took me so far and since moving to the hydrocolloid my investments and shells have been more consistent. Moving from a small nail light to a two light 365nm light actually used in the industry the consistency of my shells has drastically improved. Going from nail uv to fotoplast has taken me even further along my journey.

I would say talented individuals will achieve results like wizard with just about any resource, but guys like me need good tools to assist in achieving those results.

My next purchase - pressure tank for removing bubbles in my colloid impressions to allow uv to pass through even more efficiently, also to combat with the inhibitor layer left by the dreve. (I do the glycerin bath cure but still struggle with getting it completely cured, I want them to look crystal clear like some UE's)

I can say for those out there dabbling with making your own CIEM's who have not yet posted comments, invest in some good tools and use the correct product, if you do this out of the gate you will save tons of trial and error because uv nail gel reacts vary different than egger or fotoplast and I had to learn my technique all over again. Good info today!!

Seems like you may not be curing correctly. There should be no inhibition layer when the mold is done and pressure pot won't fix that.
What hydrocoloid you are using?
What's your curing procedure?

 

[MuZo2]

I have had same problems , I use hydrocoloid which was sold by same company which sold egger products. But its not clear. It affects in shell thickness and some areas in antitragus are not cured.

 

[raptor18]

I also read somewhere to fill the inner shell with glycerin first when it's still in the mold, cure it, then take out the shell, put it in a glycerin bath and cure the whole shell in one shot.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Seems like you may not be curing correctly. There should be no inhibition layer when the mold is done and pressure pot won't fix that.
What hydrocoloid you are using?
What's your curing procedure?

I am using Krystaloid for my colloid.
Shell Material - Dreve Fotoplast S/IO shell
I place my investment under UV exposure, cure, remove cured shell from colloid, submerge in glycerin and place under UV again for second cure.

The pressure chamber is for my experimenting, I have seen on one of the available videos a lab do it. It would also be used to remove the bubbles from mixing custom colors in shell material to cut wait time down after mixing as well as my colloid.

I don't have a colloid dispenser to keep my colloid liquid, so heat and mix, this traps bubbles that I want gone from my mixture. Could be over kill by getting, just what I want.

Nail lights are great, I just wanted the durability and consistent of a lab uv cure light. Next I want a cure chamber, it's just my pursuit to upgrade.

I can't remember where I read it, but Dreve stated there was an inhibition layer post cure and there was a product that cleaned it. The pressure tank would remove oxygen thus allowing a 100% cure. I could introduce nitrogen to replace the oxygen but do not have that readily available.

 

[piotrus-g]

  I have had same problems , I use hydrocoloid which was sold by same company which sold egger products. But its not clear. It affects in shell thickness and some areas in antitragus are not cured.

Egger offers 350g cups of gel.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

I also read somewhere to fill the inner shell with glycerin first when it's still in the mold, cure it, then take out the shell, put it in a glycerin bath and cure the whole shell in one shot.

I stated that here on the forum almost a year ago as a method that worked for me, I still do that process.

 

[piotrus-g]

I am using Krystaloid for my colloid.
Shell Material - Dreve Fotoplast S/IO shell
I place my investment under UV exposure, cure, remove cured shell from colloid, submerge in glycerin and place under UV again for second cure.

The pressure chamber is for my experimenting, I have seen on one of the available videos a lab do it. It would also be used to remove the bubbles from mixing custom colors in shell material to cut wait time down after mixing as well as my colloid.

I don't have a colloid dispenser to keep my colloid liquid, so heat and mix, this traps bubbles that I want gone from my mixture. Could be over kill by getting, just what I want.

Nail lights are great, I just wanted the durability and consistent of a lab uv cure light. Next I want a cure chamber, it's just my pursuit to upgrade.

I can't remember where I read it, but Dreve stated there was an inhibition layer post cure and there was a product that cleaned it. The pressure tank would remove oxygen thus allowing a 100% cure. I could introduce nitrogen to replace the oxygen but do not have that readily available.

1. fill in colloid with material
2. Cure for suitable time (depends on your light chamber) (black foil on top)
3. Pour out excess material - take your time and don't rush, the blank can wait few mintus for material to drip out
4. cure the shell for about 3-5min
5. remove the shell from negative form
6. place the shell in gliceryn bath
7. Cure for another 3-5min
8. remove the shell from bath
9. clean hollow blank with isoproponol (ultrasonic cleaner will give you awesome results)
During this procedure avoid touching inside of the shell.
 
If you are still getting cracks shell may require longer exposure in UV. Alternatively - cure those parts prior to pouring material into the negative mold

 

[Shilohsjustice]

.

JUST STARTED DOING THE FOLLOWING ON LAST FEW SHELLS -- I turn the gelatin mold and shell so the opening is up and I just filled to top with dawn dish soap, put back in under UV light and cured inside again, NO RESIDUE MADE FOR EASY COMPONENT INSTALL!!

I remove from mold and completely submerge the shell into glycerin and put the cup, glycerin, and shell submerged back under the light. PERFECTLY CURED SHELL!!

I found the post I did for me technique, one year ago exactly tomorrow.

I no longer use topcoat for my shell material.

 

[raptor18]

I am using Krystaloid for my colloid.
Shell Material - Dreve Fotoplast S/IO shell
I place my investment under UV exposure, cure, remove cured shell from colloid, submerge in glycerin and place under UV again for second cure.

The pressure chamber is for my experimenting, I have seen on one of the available videos a lab do it. It would also be used to remove the bubbles from mixing custom colors in shell material to cut wait time down after mixing as well as my colloid.

I don't have a colloid dispenser to keep my colloid liquid, so heat and mix, this traps bubbles that I want gone from my mixture. Could be over kill by getting, just what I want.

Nail lights are great, I just wanted the durability and consistent of a lab uv cure light. Next I want a cure chamber, it's just my pursuit to upgrade.

I can't remember where I read it, but Dreve stated there was an inhibition layer post cure and there was a product that cleaned it. The pressure tank would remove oxygen thus allowing a 100% cure. I could introduce nitrogen to replace the oxygen but do not have that readily available.

 
Are you talking about the westone lab tour video where they place the colloid with two shells inside a pressure tank? Be aware that they are cold curing it so they don't use uv light! That's a totally different procedure!
Thanks Mike M for making me realize it
 
Edit: I also want a pressure pot so i can laborate with the cold cure silicone process

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Are you talking about the westone lab tour video where they place the colloid with two shells inside a pressure tank? Be aware that they are cold curing it so they don't use uv light! That's a totally different procedure!
Thanks Mike M for making me realize it

Edit: I also want a pressure pot so i can laborate with the cold cure silicone process

I don't recall where I seen it, it's just a variable I want to try to determine if it works for me, if it doesn't I can write it off the list.

We all should realize what makes this forum fun and enjoyable is the fact we are all visionaries and are willing to experiment with trial and error. Please do not get caught up in the idea that if it wasn't seen on a video from a CIEM manufacturing company than its wrong. Experimenting is what we do, pioneering is still do be done in the process!

 

[raptor18]

I don't recall where I seen it, it's just a variable I want to try to determine if it works for me, if it doesn't I can write it off the list.

We all should realize what makes this forum fun and enjoyable is the fact we are all visionaries and are willing to experiment with trial and error. Please do not get caught up in the idea that if it wasn't seen on a video from a CIEM manufacturing company than its wrong. Experimenting is what we do, pioneering is still do be done in the process!

 
Fully agree! I would love to try it myself, only problem is that the pressure pot is expensive So we want to try to solve it without having to paying for extra gear. If we can't, then we have to be creative to either build one or buy one.
I agree, this is really fun!

 

[piotrus-g]

I don't recall where I seen it, it's just a variable I want to try to determine if it works for me, if it doesn't I can write it off the list.

We all should realize what makes this forum fun and enjoyable is the fact we are all visionaries and are willing to experiment with trial and error. Please do not get caught up in the idea that if it wasn't seen on a video from a CIEM manufacturing company than its wrong. Experimenting is what we do, pioneering is still do be done in the process!

Definitely, just take from others' expirience, which can save you time and money

 

[MuZo2]

Peter can you please explain following
"Alternatively - cure those parts prior to pouring material into the negative mold"