[MuZo2]

good info. But does it dissolve in uv material like egger? what about food color?

 

[Shilohsjustice]

I use food coloring in dreve with good results, yellow seems to be a challenge for me though.

Worth trying in Egger for sure. I will email Lightning and ask if they are using it in the Egger products as well!

 

[piotrus-g]

  I have a suspicion that some CIEM makers, when doing shells with intricate patterns like the above swirls, etc., may perhaps be skipping the usual 'wax-dip' stage when they are processing the ear impressions.
 
My suspicion is that they create the patterned acrylic CIEM shell, as a true 1:1 to the client's un-dipped ear impression, and then dip the created CIEM shell in clear UV acrylic, afterwards, to give it a very shiny, vivid, lustrous appearance, and yield approximately the same increase in overall shell exterior volume as would ordinarily be the case when using the usual 'wax-dip' stage during impressions processing.

That's not something that would work if you ask me.

 

[MuZo2]

 
That's not something that would work if you ask me.

Can you please elaborate, why it wont work?

 

[piotrus-g]

 
Can you please elaborate, why it wont work?

1. You cannot easily control thickness during such procedure
2. Uncured material would leave "spots" in places where shell would be more sleek and repel uncured material
3. what about inside of the shell? dipping would result in flowing of material into hollow shell.
4. Shiny shell is a result of fine polishing and correct lacquering procedure.

 

[Mython]

 

 
Can you please elaborate, why it wont work?

1. You cannot easily control thickness during such procedure
2. Uncured material would leave "spots" in places where shell would be more sleek and repel uncured material
3. what about inside of the shell? dipping would result in flowing of material into hollow shell.
4. Shiny shell is a result of fine polishing and correct lacquering procedure.

OK, fair enough, but how do you feel the lacquering is accomplished, then?

 

[raptor18]

All CIEM lab tour videos i've seen online, i haven't seen anyone showing the lacquering process. Are they just not showing the process or do some CIEM producers really not lacquer the shells?

 

[Mython]

Just as a precaution, before this topic turns into an avalanche, let me reiterate that I'm not stating that an outer transparent layer is an absolute, confirmed fact.
 
Nor am I stating that I feel it is standard practice.
 
I am very well aware that it is generally not done at all - the numerous videos I posted here make that very obvious.
 
 
All I am saying is that I have a suspicion that some complex shell decorations appear - to my eyes, to have a thin, outermost, layer of transparent acrylic. Perhaps I am wrong about this (it is possible that they are just highly-polished), but until I definitely know otherwise, I will continue to suspect it

 

[MuZo2]

  All CIEM lab tour videos i've seen online, i haven't seen anyone showing the lacquering process. Are they just not showing the process or do some CIEM producers really not lacquer the shells?

Its a very thin layer done mostly at final stages. Its done for ciem and hearing aids. Both for manual uv shells as well as 3d printed.

 

[MIke M]

Every one does it a little different, some polish, some laquer and some do a combination of both. Every lab has their own method on achieving desired fit as well. Play around and find what works for you

 

[MuZo2]

  1. You cannot easily control thickness during such procedure
2. Uncured material would leave "spots" in places where shell would be more sleek and repel uncured material
3. what about inside of the shell? dipping would result in flowing of material into hollow shell.
4. Shiny shell is a result of fine polishing and correct lacquering procedure.

Actually wax procedure also leaves uneven thickness.
I have seen lacquer applied with brush evenly only on outsides.

 

[piotrus-g]

  Just as a precaution, before this topic turns into an avalanche, let me reiterate that I'm not stating that an outer transparent layer is an absolute, confirmed fact.
 
Nor am I stating that I feel it is standard practice.
 
I am very well aware that it is generally not done at all - the numerous videos I posted here make that very obvious.
 
 
All I am saying is that I have a suspicion that some complex shell decorations appear - to my eyes, to have a thin, outermost, layer of transparent acrylic. Perhaps I am wrong about this (it is possible that they are just highly-polished), but until I definitely know otherwise, I will continue to suspect it

That would make more sense if you made very very thin layer of clear material in negative form, pour it out after say 5s in UV chamber and then fill in desired color, but still I would assume such process would leave some uneven coloring.

 
OK, fair enough, but how do you feel the lacquering is accomplished, then?

sand off shell with 300 paper and you are good to go with lacquer. You can use Fotoplast Lacquer 3 which is very easy to handle.

 
Actually wax procedure also leaves uneven thickness.
I have seen lacquer applied with brush evenly only on outsides.

Depends, I could show you some waxed impressions that looks super even, but generally it does create some bumps here and there That's why you have to use sand paper to level it out. Since wax gives you additional thickness you can be pretty liberal with sanding and still achieve tight fit.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

I'm sorry for sparking such enthusiastic conversation around coloring and finishing of shells!

It is also safe to say that wall thickness, quality of waxing, and or colloid quality are extremely dependent on the tools and or materials in which you are using to create your shells.

I have noticed as I upgrade my material and equipment the quality of my results also improve. Gelatin only took me so far and since moving to the hydrocolloid my investments and shells have been more consistent. Moving from a small nail light to a two light 365nm light actually used in the industry the consistency of my shells has drastically improved. Going from nail uv to fotoplast has taken me even further along my journey.

I would say talented individuals will achieve results like wizard with just about any resource, but guys like me need good tools to assist in achieving those results.

My next purchase - pressure tank for removing bubbles in my colloid impressions to allow uv to pass through even more efficiently, also to combat with the inhibitor layer left by the dreve. (I do the glycerin bath cure but still struggle with getting it completely cured, I want them to look crystal clear like some UE's)

I can say for those out there dabbling with making your own CIEM's who have not yet posted comments, invest in some good tools and use the correct product, if you do this out of the gate you will save tons of trial and error because uv nail gel reacts vary different than egger or fotoplast and I had to learn my technique all over again. Good info today!!

 

[Mython]

I'm sorry for sparking such enthusiastic conversation around coloring and finishing of shells!
 

 
 
 
LOL - the essence of what I was getting-at was that a seperate layer of acrylic might be being applied to the exterior of some shells - don't worry, I think Peter was just splitting Heirs hairs!

 
 
 
(point taken, though, Peter)

 

[ForceMajeure]

Something along the lines of:







 

Those are made from call blanks/acrylic wood turning blanks then are cnc 'd out 
Here is a video on how those blanks are made
  
They can also be bought ready made from ebay.
 
The regular marbling effect is done by pouring different amount of different colored uv resin slowly, one after the other on different places into the mold then with a toothpick make some wave pattern. Same goes if only faceplates want to be done.
 
For this design   the material used is Krinite   that are cnc'd out also for the entire shell.
Some  faceplates are also done using the Kirinte blocks (usually this Kirinite is used for making knife handles).
 
Regarding transparency of the shells, I have received egger uv resin from taobao and made a test shell. The result was a very clear transparent shell with no bubble. The consistency of the uv resin is great for slow pouring eliminating the risk of bubbles (as long as you don't pour at height), same goes for mixing colors I assume, everything must be done slowly to eliminate risks of bubbles.
 
Because I didn't have enough hydrocolloid molding material I was only able to make one shell, the problem was that my shell came out too big. Although I have trimmed my ear impression with the dremel before coating it with wax it came out too big. Now i am in a dilemma, should I trim more my ear impressions before coating them or do I need to pass the coating process ...I like the wax coating as it make the shell very smooth. What do you guys think?