[piotrus-g]

  Peter can you please explain following
"Alternatively - cure those parts prior to pouring material into the negative mold"

Use a small instrument like wax knife to place few drops of material where you are getting cracks, cure it in UV chamber (w/o cover on the negative form) then delicatley fill in mold with acrylic material, place foil on top and cure it in UV chamber at regular time setting.

 

[MuZo2]

Antitragus area is quiet tricky, material dont stand , it just runs into concha or canal.

 

[piotrus-g]

  Antitragus area is quiet tricky, material dont stand , it just runs into concha or canal.

You have to be quick. You can always do it drop by drop, it would be time consuming but will work.

 

[Mython]

We all should realize what makes this forum fun and enjoyable is the fact we are all visionaries and are willing to experiment with trial and error. Please do not get caught up in the idea that if it wasn't seen on a video from a CIEM manufacturing company than its wrong. Experimenting is what we do, pioneering is still do be done in the process!

 
 
Quote:

 

  Antitragus area is quiet tricky, material dont stand , it just runs into concha or canal.

You have to be quick. You can always do it drop by drop, it would be time consuming but will work.

 
 
 
Sigh! - you're both not being visionary enough about this!

 
 
 
I'm disappointed that no CIEM-maker has yet fitted a UV lamp assembly within a non-heated 2-axis Rotational moulding apparatus.
 
You'd need to seal the open end of the colloid mould, affix it securely within the apparatus, and would need to slice-off the acrylic faceplate to release the uncured fluid within the CIEM shell, afterwards, but just think of the fun you could have!

 
 
 
 
 
Just to be clear - I'm joking!

 

[piotrus-g]

that seems like a cool thing

 

[raptor18]

Hey guys. How about lipstick. Would that be possible? Considering it is made to be in contact with skin and can have some really nice colors

 

[grushaaa]

http://www58.atwiki.jp/diyociem/pages/16.html
I think for home this technology more better and not very expensive. You need epoxy resin magic crystal 3d and silicone mold material 

 

[Mython]

  http://www58.atwiki.jp/diyociem/pages/16.html
I think for home this technology more better and not very expensive. You need epoxy resin magic crystal 3d and silicone mold material 

 
 
I am unfamiliar with that particular brand of epoxy resin.
 
However, I do know that many epoxy resins contain bisphenol-A (which is extremely carcinogenic), so one would need to carefully check, with a very reliable and trustworthy source, as to whether that epoxy is free of such chemicals or close equivalents.

 

[grushaaa]

Pebeo Crystal Resin or magic crystal 3d its epoxy resin for jewelry, good european material

 

[ForceMajeure]

Hey guys. How about lipstick. Would that be possible? Considering it is made to be in contact with skin and can have some really nice colors

I don't know how you can dissolve it evenly within the resin as it have a thick consistency. Also lipsticks contain waxes and oils in addition to color pigments so I don't know how the result will look like once you managed to dissolve it evenly. Regarding the hypoallergenic properties of lipsticks, the fact that a lipsticks is hypoallergenic doesn't make it allergy proof, some components may trigger irritation and worse...(beewax, carmine, lanoline, seafood derivatives and other animal byproduts)

 

[ForceMajeure]

Regarding the shine, I have some Egger lacquer but I am also interested to see the results of a buffing process.
Have you tried it? If so, as I have a Dremel, what buffing bit do you recommends also what buffing compound is adequate?
Because I am a noob regarding all of this I see that there's a buffing compound called Jeweller’s Rouge but there are also different colors...what is the appropriate way to do this buffing thing?
 
A few posts back I asked this 
... the problem was that my shell came out too big. Although I have trimmed my ear impression with the dremel before coating it with wax it came out too big. Now i am in a dilemma, should I trim more my ear impressions before coating them or do I need to pass the coating process ...How much do you trim your impressions?

 

[MuZo2]

I think after buffing they use lacquer. I have tried wet and paste for buffing but results were poor.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

I think after buffing they use lacquer. I have tried wet and paste for buffing but results were poor.

I used a table top buffer, paid $39 at harbor freight tools, I use blue compound used for buffing plastics and acrylic. I will buff after the laquer coating. For me the laquer isn't really a build up more than a thin coating. If your waxing your impressions regulate the temperature to control the wax thickness when dipping. The hotter your wax the thinner the coating.

A trade trick the hearing aid industry uses to smooth out impressions before waxing or before creating the investment (mold). Use DAP glazing compound on your silicone impression to smooth out imperfections.



I tried this and it works extremely well in smoothing your impressions before waxing, they come out extremely smooth. I at first tossed the idea of waxing but found it is a great step to create awesome smooth shells. You can use 400+ grit sand paper to sand the surface and buffing after will give a great glass like surface.

 

[piotrus-g]

I will buff after the laquer coating

Don't do that. You'll damage the lacquer layer and you won't get better polish than lacquer.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

This pair I made does not have a laquer coat, it was just buffed on the face plate because I wanted an opaque affect on the rest of my shell. I've tried buffing with the dremel and found the small bits and the rpms were too much which is why I switched to a table top buffer. Below is some results I had.

Fotoplast colored with green food coloring.