[thyname]

We catch ourselves countless times throughout the day not doing anything productive. Now during those times you can take out your phone linked to Head-Fi and do some reading. It'll really benefit your purchasing decisions and lead you to happiness.

If you're looking at under $1000, The Denafrips Ares is a good place to start. I've had a Gungnir and MultiBit upgrade before but still preferred R2R Ladder. I have sold my Yggdrasil recently but it competed very well against my Holo Audio Spring (Level 1). I had the Level 2 but sold it as it didn't sound any better to my ears. I only sold the Yggdrasil due to the introduction of a new DAC into my system called the Metrum Pavane. I got a good steal from a fellow Head-Fier for $2,500 otherwise I would never spend over $2000 on a DAC. It's a personal choice.

Honestly the thing that changes the sound most to me is by upgrading a speaker or a headphone. The second would be the DAC. I've heard more DAC differencies than I have with amplifiers. Please note that the Ares does not do NOS, one crucial feature that I find translate to natural sound production.

If I were you I'd save up my bucks and get a used Holo Audio Spring for $1000-1200. Linear compensated, NOS, R2R Ladder, transformer is further from the output and conversion stage, does DSD just in case you'll ever need it, and offers I2S Input. Just recommending. YMMV.

Much appreciated! Your post is to the point and extremely helpful.

I agree on the headphones. I went through a bunch,and also listened to a dozen in meet up. I settled on HD 800, and don't regret it. I think I am done with headphones. HD 800 is good for me.

I also think I am set with Amp. Happy with my Matrix M-series HPA-3B. Really good and powerful for the price.

As you can tell, not settled on DACs.

Sold TEAC UD-503 and Bifrost 4490. Returning Mimby. Got a Matrix Quattro II, and will keep it for a while. Cannot afford Gumby. But really itching to try a Ladder R2R.

As you advised, I will save my money, and be in a lookout for a used Holo Spring

 

[T Bone]

 
Right now it's USB, but there is a Singxer SU-1 coming in for the review as well. 
 
Tonight I'm using the optical input (playing some of my favourite CDs) and I'm really enjoying this DAC! Next up will be back to USB audio (most likely DSD recordings).

I wasn't all that impressed with USB input's performance.  I think you'll get better results from your optical source.  I feel that the Holo's USB implementation leaves something on the table. 
 
You and I both evaluated the Benchmark DAC3.  My sense was that the Benchmark's USB section was tip-top and able to cope with a less-than-perfect USB signal from my laptop.  The Spring didn't handle the same USB signal with the grace of the Benchmark.  I am eager to hear your thoughts on this topic.

I agree with your testing methodology about keeping things simple as possible.

 

[lukeap69]

Thanks. I realize I have quite a bit to read.

I had a Mimby but I am not very thrilled with it. Bifrost 4490 sounds better to my ears. Since my Amp is balanced , I would look for a Balanced R2R DAC, which gets me to $1,000+ territory (Gumby). Ares is about $650 with shipping (doable), but I am skeptical of overseas shipping, as there are no US based dealers for Denafrips

I have both the Holo Spring and the ARES and I think you will not be missing much if you buy the ARES. I still prefer my Spring but if I did not hear it before the ARES, I could have just settled for the ARES. Just my 2 cents and of course IMHO and YMMV.

 

[gr8soundz]

 
Multibit is also R2R by the way.
 
1. Delta Sigma (good)
2. R2R Multibit (better)
3. R2R Ladder (best)

 
Mimby, Bimby, Gumby, Yggy, all R2R Multibit.
Holo Audio Spring, Total DAC, MSB Analo/DAC V, Aqua HiFi Formula, Metrum Menuet/Pavane, Denafrips Ares, all R2R Ladder.
 
It's easy to tell when you check the insides out. The ones with R2R Ladder has rows of resistors or sometimes placed on modules. Higher end ones have dual mono's per channel for differential mode. Some companies offer NOS, some OS, and a few offers both with a push of a button for OS/NOS toggle. Holo Audio Spring being one of them.

 
Thanks for posting such a simple explanation of DAC types. Some may not agree with your simplification but it certainly helped me.
 
I recently began looking at R2R DACs but, until your posts, had difficulty deciphering Multibit vs Ladder. I wasn't (yet) reading every detail on the subject though since it usually comes down to how good a DAC actually sounds in person.

 

[joseph69]

  Right now it's USB, but there is a Singxer SU-1 coming in for the review as well. That said, I'm usually a minimalist when it comes to audio and prefer less things in the audio path that could add colouration. But my mind is certainly open to being changed with evidence. 
 
Tonight I'm using the optical input (playing some of my favourite CDs) and I'm really enjoying this DAC! Next up will be back to USB audio (most likely DSD recordings).

I found no sound quality issues with either the USB/toslink inputs myself.

 

[rudra]

The ARES can't do NOS. But their higher end DAC's Terminator, Venus & Tomahawk can switch between OS/NOS

 

[Energy]

Much appreciated! Your post is to the point and extremely helpful.

I agree on the headphones. I went through a bunch,and also listened to a dozen in meet up. I settled on HD 800, and don't regret it. I think I am done with headphones. HD 800 is good for me.

I also think I am set with Amp. Happy with my Matrix M-series HPA-3B. Really good and powerful for the price.

As you can tell, not settled on DACs.

Sold TEAC UD-503 and Bifrost 4490. Returning Mimby. Got a Matrix Quattro II, and will keep it for a while. Cannot afford Gumby. But really itching to try a Ladder R2R.

As you advised, I will save my money, and be in a lookout for a used Holo Spring

 
Thank you for sharing your gear with us. Is yours just a standard HD800? If so I'd recommend the Super Dupont Resonator (SDR). Personally I would be fine with either the HD800S or HD800SDR as my end game headphones. The HD800? I cannot. It's bright in the treble and upper frequencies which overshadows it's tonality in every other category. This makes bass sound less  than what should be perceived. Not only that, but with the addition of the SDR, the mid range becomes more articulate due to less sibilance being in the way, thus finally giving you an opportunity to focus on it.
 
@lukeap69 trialed the Denafrips Ares over on another forum thread and has posted his positive results. Even though he feels it does not triumph the Holo Audio Spring (probably due to NOS), it is one heck of a steal for $598 (https://www.vinshineaudio.com/product-page/denafrips-ares-r2r-dac). I would spend the extra money on a Singxer SU-1 to gain further transparency, imaging, separation, resolution, detail, depth, etc. 
 
Computer USB > Singxer SU-1 > Denafrips Ares (via Coaxial RCA). 
 
The Singxer SU-1 can easily be had for as little as $350 on Aliexpress. Simply request them for a 110V or 230V depending on where you live. To connect the two you'll need a cable. A quality one. An affordable coaxial cable from Blue Jean Audio comprised of the Belden 1694A (base cable) and Canare RCAP (true 75 ohm connectors) would be perfect for the job. No need for fancy cables as this is to carry digital signal. Expensive cables may even hurt the cable impedance thus inducing even more jitter if you don't buy the right one.
 
Picking out a DAC is like building a gaming computer. You might end up wanting to save a little more for a computer with better specs, but you'll also have to take notes on what games you'll ACTUALLY be playing on it.
 
The Ares isn't a 24 bit DAC if I recall, but their higher ended products are. The Holo Audio Spring has a true 24 bit R2R Ladder thus is 24 bit. Usually the more bits and the way those converters are placed (isolation) and processed will help with linearity. This is why in some higher ended DAC's there are multiple modules or chipsets for dual differential mode. For example, think of it like how in some amplifiers there multiple boards that creates hardware balancing leading to a quieter noise floor.
 
Personally I have nothing but CD quality 16/44.1kHz so it doesn't concern me much. The Ares's 20 bit R2R Ladder may or may not pertain well to you in this instance. Your mileage may vary. 
 

 
Thanks for posting such a simple explanation of DAC types. Some may not agree with your simplification but it certainly helped me.
 
I recently began looking at R2R DACs but, until your posts, had difficulty deciphering Multibit vs Ladder. I wasn't (yet) reading every detail on the subject though since it usually comes down to how good a DAC actually sounds in person.

 
Thank you. :] I can't wait for you to get your hands on a R2R yourself. It's Surreal.
 

  I found no sound quality issues with either the USB/toslink inputs myself.

 
USB/ToSlink sounded very similar to me on the Spring. I didn't really notice much a difference.
 
I2S > AES/EBU > S/PDIF > USB/ToSlink

 

[gr8soundz]

 
I can't wait for you to get your hands on a R2R yourself. It's Surreal.

 
Just so happens I ordered a Soekris dac1101 two days ago and should have it by next week.
 
I'd sold my multibit hybrid iDSD Micro last year and was determined to finally get a full R2R dac.
 
The Holo Spring is out of my price range so I'd narrowed it down to the Mimby or Soekris. Chose the Soekris for it's transportable size and DSD capability.
 

 

[bballas]

 
jays audio soekris dac 5980rmb

 

[slex]

Thank you for sharing your gear with us. Is yours just a standard HD800? If so I'd recommend the Super Dupont Resonator (SDR). Personally I would be fine with either the HD800S or HD800SDR as my end game headphones. The HD800? I cannot. It's bright in the treble and upper frequencies which overshadows it's tonality in every other category. This makes bass sound less  than what should be perceived. Not only that, but with the addition of the SDR, the mid range becomes more articulate due to less sibilance being in the way, thus finally giving you an opportunity to focus on it.

@lukeap69
 trialed the Denafrips Ares over on another forum thread and has posted his positive results. Even though he feels it does not triumph the Holo Audio Spring (probably due to NOS), it is one heck of a steal for $598 (https://www.vinshineaudio.com/product-page/denafrips-ares-r2r-dac). I would spend the extra money on a Singxer SU-1 to gain further transparency, imaging, separation, resolution, detail, depth, etc. 

Computer USB > Singxer SU-1 > Denafrips Ares (via Coaxial RCA). 

The Singxer SU-1 can easily be had for as little as $350 on Aliexpress. Simply request them for a 110V or 230V depending on where you live. To connect the two you'll need a cable. A quality one. An affordable coaxial cable from Blue Jean Audio comprised of the Belden 1694A (base cable) and Canare RCAP (true 75 ohm connectors) would be perfect for the job. No need for fancy cables as this is to carry digital signal. Expensive cables may even hurt the cable impedance thus inducing even more jitter if you don't buy the right one.

Picking out a DAC is like building a gaming computer. You might end up wanting to save a little more for a computer with better specs, but you'll also have to take notes on what games you'll ACTUALLY be playing on it.

The Ares isn't a 24 bit DAC if I recall, but their higher ended products are. The Holo Audio Spring has a true 24 bit R2R Ladder thus is 24 bit. Usually the more bits and the way those converters are placed (isolation) and processed will help with linearity. This is why in some higher ended DAC's there are multiple modules or chipsets for dual differential mode. For example, think of it like how in some amplifiers there multiple boards that creates hardware balancing leading to a quieter noise floor.

Personally I have nothing but CD quality 16/44.1kHz so it doesn't concern me much. The Ares's 20 bit R2R Ladder may or may not pertain well to you in this instance. Your mileage may vary. 


Thank you. :] I can't wait for you to get your hands on a R2R yourself. It's Surreal.


USB/ToSlink sounded very similar to me on the Spring. I didn't really notice much a difference.

I2S > AES/EBU > S/PDIF > USB/ToSlink

Energy ,the Singxer F1 should be sufficiently adequate for Ares.

 

[thyname]

Thank you for sharing your gear with us. Is yours just a standard HD800? If so I'd recommend the Super Dupont Resonator (SDR). Personally I would be fine with either the HD800S or HD800SDR as my end game headphones. The HD800? I cannot. It's bright in the treble and upper frequencies which overshadows it's tonality in every other category. This makes bass sound less  than what should be perceived. Not only that, but with the addition of the SDR, the mid range becomes more articulate due to less sibilance being in the way, thus finally giving you an opportunity to focus on it.

@lukeap69
 trialed the Denafrips Ares over on another forum thread and has posted his positive results. Even though he feels it does not triumph the Holo Audio Spring (probably due to NOS), it is one heck of a steal for $598 (https://www.vinshineaudio.com/product-page/denafrips-ares-r2r-dac). I would spend the extra money on a Singxer SU-1 to gain further transparency, imaging, separation, resolution, detail, depth, etc. 

Computer USB > Singxer SU-1 > Denafrips Ares (via Coaxial RCA). 

The Singxer SU-1 can easily be had for as little as $350 on Aliexpress. Simply request them for a 110V or 230V depending on where you live. To connect the two you'll need a cable. A quality one. An affordable coaxial cable from Blue Jean Audio comprised of the Belden 1694A (base cable) and Canare RCAP (true 75 ohm connectors) would be perfect for the job. No need for fancy cables as this is to carry digital signal. Expensive cables may even hurt the cable impedance thus inducing even more jitter if you don't buy the right one.

Picking out a DAC is like building a gaming computer. You might end up wanting to save a little more for a computer with better specs, but you'll also have to take notes on what games you'll ACTUALLY be playing on it.

The Ares isn't a 24 bit DAC if I recall, but their higher ended products are. The Holo Audio Spring has a true 24 bit R2R Ladder thus is 24 bit. Usually the more bits and the way those converters are placed (isolation) and processed will help with linearity. This is why in some higher ended DAC's there are multiple modules or chipsets for dual differential mode. For example, think of it like how in some amplifiers there multiple boards that creates hardware balancing leading to a quieter noise floor.

Personally I have nothing but CD quality 16/44.1kHz so it doesn't concern me much. The Ares's 20 bit R2R Ladder may or may not pertain well to you in this instance. Your mileage may vary. 


Thank you. :] I can't wait for you to get your hands on a R2R yourself. It's Surreal.


USB/ToSlink sounded very similar to me on the Spring. I didn't really notice much a difference.

I2S > AES/EBU > S/PDIF > USB/ToSlink

Thanks again.

My HD 800 is indeed with SDR mod. I bought it already modded from another fellow head-fier.

I do not use computer to "feed" my DAC. I use a Sonore microrendu via Roon. Server with Roon Core to microrendu to DAC via USB.

 

[Energy]

Thanks again.

My HD 800 is indeed with SDR mod. I bought it already modded from another fellow head-fier.

I do not use computer to "feed" my DAC. I use a Sonore microrendu via Roon. Server with Roon Core to microrendu to DAC via USB.

That's great. It should be galvanically isolated then. You're all set

Speaking of galvanic isolation and further improving the USB port. Does anyone use the Intona USB Isolator even with a Singer SU-1?

I know the the Singxer SU-1 already has isolation of its own with high precision clocks, but would there be any benefits in adding the Intona USB Isolator?

I use a laptop, and before this, a gaming computer with 9 fans (noisy). Just seeing if I can get as much transparency as I can and fully avoid any contaminants from the USB line. A used Intona Isolator wouldn't be so pricy..

 

[rudra]

you may want to look into the ifi USB3.0.  Someone in Computer Audiophile compared the regen, intona, and few others. You can read them  here

 

[MacedonianHero]

  I wasn't all that impressed with USB input's performance.  I think you'll get better results from your optical source.  I feel that the Holo's USB implementation leaves something on the table. 
 
You and I both evaluated the Benchmark DAC3.  My sense was that the Benchmark's USB section was tip-top and able to cope with a less-than-perfect USB signal from my laptop.  The Spring didn't handle the same USB signal with the grace of the Benchmark.  I am eager to hear your thoughts on this topic.

I agree with your testing methodology about keeping things simple as possible.

 
I think the Benchmark USB implementation is really good, but I'm finding this DAC's USB implementation really good as well too. I do have a Singxer SU-1 coming in to try out so we'll see how that goes.
 
FWIW, tonight is some Tidal Master (88.2kHz) music (Ed Sheeran's new album) and I'm loving what I'm hearing...competes very well with the Benchmark DAC3 HGC to my ears. Different though with a Delta Sigma DAC like the Benchmark and this R2R NOS DAC, but both are very impressive through USB.

 

[T Bone]

Does anyone use the Intona USB Isolator even with a Singer SU-1?
I know the the Singxer SU-1 already has isolation of its own with high precision clocks, but would there be any benefits in adding the Intona USB Isolator?

 
I use a laptop as my source and had very poor results from the USB input alone.  I experimented with an Intona in/out of the signal path.
I wrote a post here that you might find interesting.  ....or PM with any specific questions.