Very interesting. I've done a lot with mine but not the internals wiring.
I have found that wiring can have significant impacts and in a variety of SQ area's, most notably in bass and what I call 'Leading Edge Dynamic Impact' (LEDI) regardless of frequency. Such things a piccolo's, piano's, cymbals, even brush strokes on hi-hats etc. with 'sharp' leading edges benefit from improved dynamics which better wiring can deliver.
I have also found that wire length, as in the main cable length itself, can also play a significant role in delivery of dynamic's, ie the shorter the better.
Of course there is a practical limit, which is why all my HP cables are 1.5m (≈5') in length.
Umm wow. Pretty sure the resonance is around 30 Hz. By making them flap around at subsonic frequencies you may be adding a lot of distortion in areas you can hear.
If there is a problem with resonance at those frequencies I'm sure it will stick out and I'll figure a way to deal with it, one way or another.
But thus far all of my deep bass tracks, which I have collected quite a collection of over the years, just for this very purpose of exploring the very bottom end, have not 'stuck out' at least yet.
And some of those tracks reach down below 20Hz and have 'thumped' my chest, which is a unique experience in and of itself.
But paying attention to digital overload (clipping) is a must using +15dB, even if it only applies to the last 2-3 octaves where there is usually very little acoustic energy in the vast majority of music in the first place.
But thanks for the heads up, and so I'll 'push the envelope' so to speak just to see if this is a problem.
I couldn't verify the magnetic nature of the stock mesh having an effect. I tried aluminum and stainless. It's the amount of air vs mesh material that matters. At 90% open its indistinguishable from no mesh to me. At 75% its audible. I just did away with all of it for over 3 years, no screens, no issues.
The stock screens are magnetic and while there is a sonic change with them removed I haven't fully explored the net effect of their removal quite yet.
One thing I have noticed is if you remove the stock screen and hold it between your fingers and 'excite it' with a metal tool of some sort and feel the screen resonate, it is relatively quite strong, which surprised me, which I can't see as anything but a detriment.
And I hope that the titanium screens will have much less of this physical resonance characteristic, but you're right, no screen to resonate is better than a reduced resonance screen.
Another area I haven't tried out.
Overshoot has been an area of research for me for years now and reducing it has resulted in significant beneficial results. And since manufacturers (with a few exceptions) tend to 'over use' it to make the cans sell better, much to us long term users detriment, I have jumped down this rabbit hole with gratifying results.
Most people assume that frequency response anomalies are the source of the acoustic 'problems' and use EQ or dampening of some sort, and as a result aren't really dealing with the cause of the 'problem', at least that is what I have observed.
Instead I have focused on the over use of overshoot, and I have found 'better' results in solving not only the 'problems' but reaping additional sonic and acoustic benefits, well beyond mere frequency anomalies.
Pads make a good amount of difference. But the fuzzor is the biggest improvement I've found.
I do have pad mods on the list and the brainwavz hybrid pads I am now using seem adequate at least for now.
And I think I might be able to get my hands on a set of the holey rebuilt pads (I forget their name) to use in a comparison between my cans and another set, which should prove to be quite a reveal in and of itself.
So after the mods I have lined up and then get implemented are finished, I figure the fuzzor mod will be last.
And my 71A amp which has 32Ω output taps needs new tubes, which should REALLY light these cans up.
JJ
