HiFiman HE-500 (HE as in High End) Proving to be an enjoyable experience in listening.
Apr 10, 2012 at 1:10 PM Post #1,127 of 20,386
I've been using the HE-6 OCC cable for some months now. I've not had any problems with it physically. It's very light and flexible. Although, it sounds exactly the same as the beastly speaker cable that came with my HE-500 to me.
 
Apr 10, 2012 at 1:49 PM Post #1,128 of 20,386
Yeah, my Q cable came today.  It's very nice but no sonic difference that I can tell.  A well made, nice cable from a great company.
 
Apr 10, 2012 at 4:13 PM Post #1,130 of 20,386


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The HE-6 cable is great but mine started to oxidise and turn green.



Mine are too getting green but I don't notice any sonic difference.
 
Apr 10, 2012 at 6:01 PM Post #1,131 of 20,386
I made a new headphone cable this past weekend for my HE-500s. I used Neutrik NP3X-B plug, Canare L-4E6S cable and HiFiMAN terminations. It cost me maybe $25 to make it. I notice almost no sonic difference between the stock silver cable and the one I made. The cable is much stronger and doesn't have that annoying sound when the cable rubs on something. So glad I made a new cable.
 
Apr 10, 2012 at 7:09 PM Post #1,132 of 20,386


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I made a new headphone cable this past weekend for my HE-500s. I used Neutrik NP3X-B plug, Canare L-4E6S cable and HiFiMAN terminations. It cost me maybe $25 to make it. I notice almost no sonic difference between the stock silver cable and the one I made. The cable is much stronger and doesn't have that annoying sound when the cable rubs on something. So glad I made a new cable.



Would you mind posting some pictures? 
Thanks 
 
Apr 10, 2012 at 8:28 PM Post #1,136 of 20,386


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Where did you get that cable?  I hate mine its super thin and braided and gets tangled.    Please tell me its less then $25 every time i find a HE-500 cable they want like $150+ for it and I just can't pay that for a cable. 
 



I bought the Canare L-4E6S cable from sweetwater.com and the Neutrik plug from Amazon. I bought 40ft of cable right off the bat and only used ~15ft. I used the extra supplied connectors from HiFiMAN and some extra heatshrink I had laying around. Took the better part of an afternoon since I didn't know a lot about soldering and cables. The only thing I would do different is to shorten the length of the raw wire to the headphone terminations. They sound great and the Canare wire is extremely smooth and flexible.
 
Apr 11, 2012 at 2:05 AM Post #1,137 of 20,386
I tried making my own cable but the Hifiman connectors were so small I couldn't fit the ground wire inside it beside the signal wire ao I soldered it on the outside of the connector. Hpw did you manage?
 
Apr 11, 2012 at 2:10 AM Post #1,138 of 20,386


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I tried making my own cable but the Hifiman connectors were so small I couldn't fit the ground wire inside it beside the signal wire ao I soldered it on the outside of the connector. Hpw did you manage?



hifiman solders theirs on the outside as well so that's probably typical.  at least when i cracked mine open to see what was wrong that's the way it was done.
 
Apr 11, 2012 at 7:18 AM Post #1,139 of 20,386


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I tried making my own cable but the Hifiman connectors were so small I couldn't fit the ground wire inside it beside the signal wire ao I soldered it on the outside of the connector. Hpw did you manage?



I read that the ground should be soldered on the outside knurled section of the connection, so that's how I did it.
 
Apr 11, 2012 at 1:28 PM Post #1,140 of 20,386
I have posted this before, my stock cable broke on the first few days. HiFiMan offered to send me another one but I declined, instead I asked for more connectors. I figured why would I want more crap when one is one too many.
 
So I made a new cable myself with stuffs that I have on hand, pretty identical to the one above (same cable and plug). To me the sound difference is obvious, the stock sounded tighter and more analytical, the copper sounded looser and warmer and more fun. I prefer the later. The down side is Canare is much heavier which is bad for the already the weak connector.
 
I then cut apart the stock cable connector, inside it is actually the identical connector as the ones provided, except without the cup/cover thing that covers up the ground connection (in its place the the plastic molding), I soldered it back, wrapped it up with heat shrink, put it in its original packaging and stow it away
 
What is crappy is not the cable, but the connector. When the cable is tugged, all the forces are on the electrical connection/soldering, with no means of strain relief. The design is flawed and I don't believe it can be fixed unless they ditch the connector. Simply this is not a headphone which you can yank all you want like those from the big manufacturers.
 

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