Hearyourself.com custom IEM discussion thread
Nov 8, 2008 at 2:36 AM Post #661 of 1,734
I thought mine were the only ones.

They are a little loose too but so far my monitors have not fallen off. I suppose if you squeese the prongs together a tiny bit(.5 mm) it would hug a little tighter. I can say that the Westones,Ue's and stock HY cables all fit very snug.

Anyway, Ive switched back to my white UE's cause I don't like the earloops of the blue ones and I can't tell an difference in the SQ
 
Nov 8, 2008 at 3:53 AM Post #662 of 1,734
Rightyo, ladies and gents, I have a bit of an update for you..

I got an email back from plasticsone and they want me to send them a sketch of a prototype cable (which seems unnecessary, but still, easy enough) and I have been thinking about this whole connector thing, what does everyone think of using plasticsone's 3.5mm connectors? They probably won't be quite as good as the neutrik, switchcraft or paliccs but they will certainly be more slimline, much lighter and probably stronger/more durable, considering they are injection molded onto the end of the cable.. Just an idea?

I still can't wait for my C3s, they've only been in the mail 2 days but I want them yesterday
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Glad someone ordered and liked the AE1s, I was gonna get a pair for my girlfriend for christmas but I don't think she really wants them.. She thinks spending money on headphones is "stupid"...
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Nov 8, 2008 at 4:28 AM Post #663 of 1,734
Quote:

Originally Posted by Stikk /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I was gonna get a pair for my girlfriend for christmas but I don't think she really wants them.. She thinks spending money on headphones is "stupid"...
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lol. That's what my girlfriend think also.
Plasticsone connectors are fine with me, anyway im gonna change them to Paliccs.
 
Nov 8, 2008 at 4:53 AM Post #664 of 1,734
One option would be the following

Silver braided from monitor plugs to "Y" but instead of a Y we could have them terminated there with a 3.5mm straight plug. ( Male or Female) I think that using a simple plastics1 3.5 plug would defeat the purpose of using the good silver wire. So I vote to terminate at the Y with a Neutriks or Switchcraft 3.5 gold tip straight plug.
( Whichever is lighter ) and then We could all have any interchangable length beyond that point. one short cord for close portable use and one long cord for home use. plus a perfect in-line place for portable amps or PTH's or Wireless or volume control. You know,,,,All of our other toys
 
Nov 8, 2008 at 7:08 AM Post #665 of 1,734
Stikk;4958191 said:
Hey people,


Quote:

At the moment, we're looking at some 30awg silver cable from diyhifisupply (Link). Anyone have any objections?


I'd recommend against getting 30AWG silver for a headphone cable; I assume its solid core??? I wouldn't even use wire like that on a portable IC let alone a HP cable. too fragile and will break/perish in no time. your much better off using stranded wire. if you can find some stranded silver then that would be great for you (I haven't ordered yet) but stranded silver tends to be expensive; so high purity stranded copper would be your best bet IMO.


Quote:

If so, what would you prefer? Providing our own cable is no problem and there's a possibility they may let us use our own terminations as well, but I'll have to send a sample of them in also. What would people like for the ends of their cables?


switchcraft RA. but in all honesty i'd probably make my own. although i'd be interested in buying some of the connectors for the IEM end

Quote:

Also, we need to decide on length and price, I think, I told them if they could do it for less than $40 per cable, that would probably be cool but less is more, if you know what I mean
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Anyway, I'm gonna start a thread about it when I have done a little more work on it, I'll prolly order some wire this w/e, depending on how my bank account is looking!


you wont get stranded silver for that but maybe SPC. let me know if you are having trouble finding a good source for wire
 
Nov 8, 2008 at 2:22 PM Post #666 of 1,734
Quote:

Originally Posted by qusp /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I'd recommend against getting 30AWG silver for a headphone cable; I assume its solid core??? I wouldn't even use wire like that on a portable IC let alone a HP cable. too fragile and will break/perish in no time. your much better off using stranded wire. if you can find some stranded silver then that would be great for you (I haven't ordered yet) but stranded silver tends to be expensive; so high purity stranded copper would be your best bet IMO.



Let them choose, gusp...
I've told this many times, solid wires is not feasible for portable cables, especially IEMs. Plus, with teflon insulation, it'll be extremely microphonic...
Pure silver is always good .... yeah.
 
Nov 8, 2008 at 4:21 PM Post #667 of 1,734
I think that with all the variables and the cost it would probably be best if we don't try to get Plastics 1 to do a cable. There are so many very good options in standard cables such as UE,Westone and HY that I don't think the difference in SQ would be worth the Price.
Now, if we could get some connectors from Plastics 1 and experiment with our own builds, I think I'd like that better.

Many here have made some interesting observations about solid wire being fragile and microphonics that I wonder now if we really know what we are doing or that silver is even a possibilty.

Maybe we should take this over to the "tweaks" forum and get some more opinions from someone who's "BeenThere, DoneThat"
 
Nov 9, 2008 at 12:16 AM Post #669 of 1,734
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thats a good idea posting in there; although you will get a few people just dropping by to tell you that cables dont make a difference; while not adding anything construcutive. lil' knight let watch while they go and ask 'the cable guy' the only decent stranded silver that I can source (actually 3 different wires 3 different sources) is about $9 (cryoed and smallest gauge I think is 24AWG, this is the most appropriate but wont be available for anoter couple of weeks) per foot, $9.50 (26AWG again cryoed but this is stranded ALO SPC or as he has 'renamed it' SXC gimmick IMO) per foot and $110 per foot (piccolino) and keep in mind that it is raw cable so you will need to multply by 4 to get the actual price length of cable except for the last (which is coaxial so X2) ... perfect for HP cable this one, but the $$$$ makes it out of your range and the only person you can get to do the last is stevekelby; the raw wire isnt available to DIYers; I had to go to ridiculous lengths to have this wire to work with and I couldn't get it raw.
 
Nov 9, 2008 at 7:57 AM Post #670 of 1,734
After having them for a day now I wanted to comment on the AE1s more.

The first thing I noticed was, You need to play the music much lower than you normally do. This one seems obvious, but your ears don't quite "acclimate" at first, and I know I didn't get it. I'm assuming it has to do with the good seal, or the whole balanced armature deal? I was playing my music at about the same notch as my old earphones. I was felt there was a significant lack of bass, and that the balance wasn't very balanced. I tried lowering the volume JUST a little bit, and it sounds a lot fuller and more musical, without losing my vocals and detail.

Also I take back some of my complaints about their speed. I still wouldn't call these IEMs fast, but the songs I complained about were also very bright and piercing on my home setup, so some of those Bloc Party songs were just poorly mastered imo.

ALSO, the connector seems kind of flimsy, and I think the insulation on mine might break over time. I'm gonna just put some heat shrink over it so it gets stronger.

Overall, I'm even more happier with these. Such a tremendous bargain, I kind of just wish I bought a removable cable one in case something happens down the line. Single Drivers FTW!
 
Nov 9, 2008 at 9:53 AM Post #673 of 1,734
Quote:

Originally Posted by Reian /img/forum/go_quote.gif
........... Anyways, I have a issue right now, the plugs aren't tight, and instead very loose. Anyone here have suggestions on how to fix this problem?


re-terminate them
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sorry but thats the only way you can do it. unless you find another amp or dap that has a tighter output. but seeing as boomy seemingly has the same problem its probably not the output thats loose. probably just a nonstandard connector. you didn't get the kevlar cable/neutrik termination did you? because the neutriks are actually one of the better fitting plugs around; not too tight (like some switchcraft can be, because they're designed for the military and so designed not to pull out by accident too easily) and not too loose.
 
Nov 9, 2008 at 3:38 PM Post #674 of 1,734
Quote:

Originally Posted by qusp /img/forum/go_quote.gif
re-terminate them
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sorry but thats the only way you can do it. unless you find another amp or dap that has a tighter output. but seeing as boomy seemingly has the same problem its probably not the output thats loose. probably just a nonstandard connector. you didn't get the kevlar cable/neutrik termination did you? because the neutriks are actually one of the better fitting plugs around; not too tight (like some switchcraft can be, because they're designed for the military and so designed not to pull out by accident too easily) and not too loose.




We were refering to the two prong connection at the right and left monitor end of the cable. It is the same type of two prong plug used by Hearyourself.com, Ultimate Ears, and Westone on their customs.


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The 3.5mm right angle Neutriks at the source end works fine and is very snug.

Thanks
 

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