[VRacer-111]

So, should the Burson V6 solve the problems the V5 had with the Gustard? Higher voltage and vented design...

https://www.head-fi.org/f/threads/b...e-audio-opamps-discussion-and-reviews.854912/

Still going to vent the Gustard case no matter what though!

 

[Madman242]

So, should the Burson V6 solve the problems the V5 had with the Gustard? Higher voltage and vented design...

That appears to be one of their intentions with this update! I wonder, if we have a failure with the V5s, would Burson provide a warranty upgrade to V6? It would seem to be in their interest to do so.

 

[mandrake50]

So, should the Burson V6 solve the problems the V5 had with the Gustard? Higher voltage and vented design...

https://www.head-fi.org/f/threads/b...e-audio-opamps-discussion-and-reviews.854912/

Still going to vent the Gustard case no matter what though!

I had an email conversation with Alex at Burson and asked the question. He said the higher voltage rating on the V6 would make it "perfect" for the H10. This even though the voltage rating is only 0.5 volts higher. I did order a full boat set for my H10. While I was at it.. he talked me into trying the Conductor V2+. I look forward to doing some comparisons with the amp section versus the H10. Maybe not a fair comparison based on cost alone. We will see. BTW the V2+ uses the V5 opamp. I wonder if the are user replaceable.

 

[VRacer-111]

So went ahead and ordered some heat sinks. Going to mount Versarien LPH0001's on the 8 transistors attached to the main heat sink and mount Enzotech MOS-C10-LE's on the voltage regulators.

http://www.versarien-technologies.c...-LowProfileHeatsink-DATASHEET-MARCH2015fv.pdf

http://www.enzotechnology.com/mos_c10_le.htm

In running the Gustard open, the large heat sink/transistor banks and the 4 small transistors around each single Opamp are definite the hottest areas going on, with the voltages regulators next hottest. Will be putting .375" slots along both sides and a slot along top (probably 0.250"), and covering slots with a tight but breathable mesh. The heat coming off the large sink should drive the passive cooling flow well. Figure 2 slots on the left (1 in the front and 1 in the rear by the dual Opamp), 2 slots on the right (1 in the middle of the 2 transistor banks/single opamps and 1 by the rear dual Opamp), and 1 long slot on the top (over bank of transistors/ main heat sink).

 

[mandrake50]

You are going to make that thing mighty cool. Nice project.
Those pin sinks are quite similar to what I used for the regulators. Mine are just uncoated soft copper, but about 25 mm high.
That copper foam looks quite interesting. Have you found a place to buy them? What size are you considering?

 

[VRacer-111]

Already purchased qty 20 of the Versarien LPH0001 (10mm x 10mm x 2mm) from Mouser...

http://www.mouser.com/new/versarien-technologies/versarien-lph-heat-sink/

2mm will allow plenty of clearance for the Opamps. Might be a little close for some cooling I'm still trying to figure out for the small transistors on the board next to the heat sink. And the more I think about it, just plan to have the 2 intake slots in the left hand side of the cover only (none on the right) to help promote flow out of the top better.

 

[mandrake50]

Ventilation is good.. convection itself does not supply enough directional flow to provide enough air movement to significantly influence heat sink performance. I think... more is better.. bottom to top.
If you go with forced air circulation, then I think directionality becomes significant.

 

[Busterized]

So I'm having trouble with my H10 and I have close to no knowledge on electronic repair so I was wondering if someone could help me out.

So I started getting popping/crackling in the left channel, followed by the sound cutting out completely. When the sound goes out the left most LED goes out on the board (green circle).
I have a soldering iron from when I repaired some headphones, but that's all I've used it for up until now. I started checking the connections on the bottom of the board and I noticed literally the moment I touch the solder for the transistor in the red circle with the soldering iron the LED and sound immediately come back.
I put it all back together but in another couple of hours it starts having the same exact problem, and if I solder the transistor again it immediately fixes it.
I don't really have anything else to test with so I was wondering if anyone with some experience might have a guess on what the issue is. I have no clue whether it's a bad soldering job, bad transistor, overheating issue, or something else entirely.
If anyone has any advice it'd be greatly appreciated. I'm considering taking it to an audio repair place but I would like to fix it myself if possible.

 

[VRacer-111]

So I'm having trouble with my H10 and I have close to no knowledge on electronic repair so I was wondering if someone could help me out.

So I started getting popping/crackling in the left channel, followed by the sound cutting out completely. When the sound goes out the left most LED goes out on the board (green circle).
I have a soldering iron from when I repaired some headphones, but that's all I've used it for up until now. I started checking the connections on the bottom of the board and I noticed literally the moment I touch the solder for the transistor in the red circle with the soldering iron the LED and sound immediately come back.
I put it all back together but in another couple of hours it starts having the same exact problem, and if I solder the transistor again it immediately fixes it.
I don't really have anything else to test with so I was wondering if anyone with some experience might have a guess on what the issue is. I have no clue whether it's a bad soldering job, bad transistor, overheating issue, or something else entirely.
If anyone has any advice it'd be greatly appreciated. I'm considering taking it to an audio repair place but I would like to fix it myself if possible.

So you put the top back on and run it, right? Have you tried running it with the top off to see if the same thing happens?

 

[Busterized]

So you put the top back on and run it, right? Have you tried running it with the top off to see if the same thing happens?

I want to say I did that at first when I first started troubleshooting but I can't remember for sure, so I'll run it tonight with the top off and report back. One reason I suspected something overheating is it never seems to give me issues from a cold start, it always needs to be running for at least 20-30 minutes before it starts acting up at the earliest. The longest stretch it's gone without issue since this started was 5 hours.

Edit: 30 minutes of running it with the top off and it started acting up

 

[Madman242]

I want to say I did that at first when I first started troubleshooting but I can't remember for sure, so I'll run it tonight with the top off and report back. One reason I suspected something overheating is it never seems to give me issues from a cold start, it always needs to be running for at least 20-30 minutes before it starts acting up at the earliest. The longest stretch it's gone without issue since this started was 5 hours.

Edit: 30 minutes of running it with the top off and it started acting up

It shouldn't be too difficult for you to replace that transistor. I'd start with that. It's cheap enough that you can just try and see if it fixes the problem.

 

[Busterized]

It shouldn't be too difficult for you to replace that transistor. I'd start with that. It's cheap enough that you can just try and see if it fixes the problem.

I ordered a finer soldering tip and a soldering wick so I can replace it myself. I appreciate all the help but I do have one last question: Are these the equivalent transistors?
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=512-BC556BTA
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=512-BC546BTA

They come up when I search for the part but there are several variations of each, I figured it would be this one because the ones on the board appear to have the angled pins and these are the only ones that also do.

 

[VRacer-111]

Got the Versarien Cu Foam heatsinks in an put them on the heatsink transistors and the voltage regulators on one of the H10s. Have a different heat sink coming in for the voltage regulators, but figured getting the Versariens on temporarily wouldn't hurt...

Will be using thermal epoxy for the final installation.

 

[mandrake50]

Did you or do you plan to do any temperature measurements? I was thinking before and after... but you do have a second unit.
Why thermal epoxy. Is the adhesive on those foam sinks not good. Thermal epoxy can be less efficient than the factory supplied interface.
Just curious.

 

[VRacer-111]

Did you or do you plan to do any temperature measurements? I was thinking before and after... but you do have a second unit.
Why thermal epoxy. Is the adhesive on those foam sinks not good. Thermal epoxy can be less efficient than the factory supplied interface.
Just curious.

I do plan on taking measurements, looking into getting a spot IR thermometer currently (most likely a FLIR TG56, which also has a Type K thermocouple input).

I want thermal epoxy on it due to if they ever come off they will touch the transistor leads...which would not be a good thing. I'm getting really good high quality thermal epoxy, no efficiency problem with this stuff, better than thermal tape.