[mandrake50]

Yes, conductive material loose inside an electronic device is not a good thing. I have to say that using 3M thermal tape I have not yet had anything come loose. I have used for heat sinks on video cards. One time I tried to remove the memory sinks from a card to get a warranty replacement. I pulled the sinks (first one) off and the case of the IC came with it. Of course you can do better with the best grades of thermal epoxy, if it is applied correctly.

That FLIR TG256 looks like a fine device. I am tempted to pick one up myself. Beyond electronic temperature measurement, it would be good for HVAC and other things that I do. I like that 30:1 spot ratio.

Well, keep us posted. I am quite interested in your results.

BTW, not sure whether I mentioned it. I did order a full set of the Burson V6 opamps to try (along with a Conductor V2). There have been some delays on that, but hopefully I will get them next week some time.

 

[Toyboyo]

I had an email conversation with Alex at Burson and asked the question. He said the higher voltage rating on the V6 would make it "perfect" for the H10. This even though the voltage rating is only 0.5 volts higher. I did order a full boat set for my H10. While I was at it.. he talked me into trying the Conductor V2+. I look forward to doing some comparisons with the amp section versus the H10. Maybe not a fair comparison based on cost alone. We will see. BTW the V2+ uses the V5 opamp. I wonder if the are user replaceable.

@mandrake50 I too have ordered the V6 opamps for my H10 but have been considering a Burson Conductor and am keen to hear how you found it in comparison to the Gustard.

 

[wwmhf]

As for the heat issue, I simply use the amp without the top cover all the time. Of course, you just have to very careful when using the amp this way.

 

[wwmhf]

As for the op amps, I like the following combinations:

V5 single + LM4562NA
627 + V4 double

I do not like 797 and 823

 

[VRacer-111]

I'll answer my own question, the main supply capacitors run at ~29Vdc so 35V 16mm diameter if one wants to replace those.

I ordered some Nichicon 3300uf 35V for audio UKA1V332MHD to replace the originals... not that it sounds bad now but just because it might sound better with those. Will let you people know how things go.

Want to make sure I understand this correctly, the actual voltage the stock capacitors see is ~30V even though they are 63V rated capacitors? UVZ1J222MHD seems to be the stock capacitors on mine based on the VZM data sheet and measuring them at 18x35mm. Just wondering what reason they would put 63V capacitors in if they are only being run @ ~30v. Have my eye on the UKA1V472MHD if this is the case...

 

[mandrake50]

Quite often, in high reliability circuits, the "rule of thumb is to double the voltage rating of the cap versus what the working voltage will be.
The other thing to consider is the MAX voltage the cap can see. A unloaded supply can produce higher voltage than its working voltage during startup.. though this should not be a big issue for a well regulated supply.
I have always made the error on the side of higher voltage when replacing caps. One would think that, if the stock caps are truly 63 volt rated parts, they did it for a reason. Of course, it may be that they had many on hand...or could get them cheaper.

Probably can get away with 35 or 36 volt caps, but without a good understanding of the circuit... who knows?

 

[VRacer-111]

The stock caps...

 

[mandrake50]

That is pretty conclusive... !!
I somehow thought that this was based on matching up dimensions from the data sheet.
Thanks!

 

[lucianpescaru]

Here's what I pulled out of mine. Guess it's an older version. Also measured ~29V on all the caps so...

 

[russdog]

Do we know if the V6 sounds different/better than the V5's? Or is it all just about voltage?

 

[mandrake50]

I just got mine today. About an hour ago. As I have time some time to let them run in and give a listen, I will see what I can report.

Burson says that they are different.. even have two models. I think Vivid and Classic. Even those are said to sound different from each other. I got the Vivid.

 

[russdog]

I've read most of this thread... but I forget where I left off exactly....

I was up to the part about how the initial V5 problem was about V5 issues with H10 voltage, and Burson said they were gonna fix that with an updated V5 that could handle it. Did that work out in a way that makes almost everybody happy?

 

[VRacer-111]

Per Burson, the V6 Vivid is the V5 in sound, but technically better. The Classic is different sounding. I have a full set of both coming in, got email notice today that they are finally on their way.

 

[mandrake50]

I've read most of this thread... but I forget where I left off exactly....

I was up to the part about how the initial V5 problem was about V5 issues with H10 voltage, and Burson said they were gonna fix that with an updated V5 that could handle it. Did that work out in a way that makes almost everybody happy?

They did do something for H10 owners. I think the were selecting V5s that tested better for the voltage tolerance problem.
It seemed to be a hit or miss thing. I had a full set of the V5s in my H10 from one of the very early batches. I have been running them for over a year with no problems.
When I got the V6s, I pulled the 5s out and noticed one of then was pushing the case off. It was still fully functional. I heated it with a hair drier and pushed the case back to where it belongs. It now looks and works just fine. The other three were unaffected.

I guess I have been lucky, though I did do the mod that Burson provided that couples the case to the output device heat sink, and added pin heat sinks to the regulators... and ran the H10 on the +12 db gain setting as recommended.
Some people did report complete failures. I am not sure if this happened with the devices that were selected for better high voltage tolerance or not. Maybe someone that had the problem can comment.

 

[VRacer-111]

Guess what just came in:

Figured I'd start off with the Classics. At first I was a little dissapointed in sound... then remembered about the dip switches in the back and the V5's needing +6V or +12V setting. Much better when not at the default stock setting... Torn between the two though. For +6V I love the bass, but the mids and highs are maybe just a tad bit too much forward from what I prefer. For +12V I love the balance between bass, mids, and highs...but the bass is too much and not as good quality as in +6V....

Also getting started with the top cover mods...