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GUSTARD H10 High-current Discrete Class A output Stage Headphone Amplifier

Discussion in 'Headphone Amps (full-size)' started by phcassa, Sep 23, 2014.
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  1. HOWIE13
    Good move! The 823's are the duals for the inputs and the other two the singles for the outputs, of course. :smile_phones:.

    I've also put all my opamps into their own dip-8 sockets for ease of rolling and to minimise breaking their delicate spidery legs, which I've managed to do several times in the past. :darthsmile:
  2. starence
    I'm considering upgrading to either 627/823 or 797/823. Would it sound the same either way, or are there noticeable differences?
  3. HOWIE13
    I personally find the 627 is livelier and more engaging than the 797, which is a bit smoother and warmer.
    Both are good-depends on your preference. Mine is for the 627, using T1g2 and HD 600/650.
    starence likes this.
  4. Greg121986
    Hey guys,
    I've got a new Gustard H10 from Massdrop that has been working fine. I just received a full set of Burson V5 opamps and they are not working as a complete set. I have the "S" opamp on the headphone output stage and the "D" opamp on the input stage. There is no output when I configure it this way. I put the stock opamp back into the input stage with the Burson "S" opamps in the headphone output stage and it is working. Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong?

    *EDIT* I swapped opamps around and noticed there was a gold insert from the IC riser that was stuck in the old headphone stage opamp. There must have been no connection on the headphone output stage. I replaced this insert and used the Burson "S" in the headphone stage and the stock input stage IC as my first test. This worked OK. Now I have replaced the stock input stage with the Burson "D", along with the Burson "S" still in the headphone stage. Everything is working fine now.

    The connection of these opamps is very loose and feels very poor, but I guess this is necessary to be able to easily swap the opamps.
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2017
  5. vasu
    Is anyone else having a lot of trouble with the reliability / longevity of their Burson op-amps in the H10? I got the full 2 x V5 single and 2 x V5 dual upgrade last year (April 2016) and they worked great for 7 months before they failed, developing a scratching sound in the audio output after a few minutes that then turned into a loud and continual popping sound. I emailed Burson about this and I got replacement op-amps which fixed the problem, but then the exact same thing happened again last month, so I only got 5 months out of the second set. At this point, I don't want to try for a third set, and keep doing this back and forth every few months. I have the metal bar they sent installed properly to help in heat dissipation, and the room the H10 is kept in is usually kept pretty cold, but I guess these op-amps are still overheating?

    So.. some questions

    1) Anyone else having this problem?
    2) Anyone know if the smaller V5i op-amps are more reliable / less susceptible to overheating?

    more importantly:

    3) I seem to have misplaced (or thrown out) the stock op-amps that came with the H10. Can anyone tell me the model numbers for the op-amps used for the input, and output stages?

    4) Or, are the other op-amps people are using for upgrades working reliably?
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2017
    alphanumerix1 likes this.
  6. mandrake50
    Just curious, how much do you use the H10. Like hours per day (average). I got the V5s (both single and dual) very soon after they were released. I have no had any problems. I did install the heat spreader and put heat sinks on the regulators. The room probably averages 74 degrees F. I might average 2 hours per day, but have run it for 150 hours straight when breaking in headphones. I do run at 12 DB gain, which I think that was what Burson said produced the least heat in the Opamps. There are other settings NOT recommended for the gain switches.

    I have had no problems to date.

    This topic has been discussed at length earlier in the thread. It seems that the V5s are running at or beyond their rated voltage in the H10. Later ones, designated for the H10 were/are selected based on testing for voltage tolerance.

    Also, I don't have it in front of me now, but the stock opamps... the specific types, is listed in many places earlier in the thread. I can't do it for you right now, but a quick search will get you that data... as well as documenting the potential causes for V5s failing.
  7. vasu
    Usage: 2-6hrs at night, but only on weekends. Typical would be maybe 6 hours over the weekend, maybe 12 hours at most. So about the same daily average as you, but compressed into weekend listening. I was also running at a 12gb gain, and my first set (and certainly second set) were after they started designating certain ones for the H10.

    I searched this thread about Burson issues but couldn't find anything concrete either way, or resolutions, but in such a long.. long thread, it's possible I read over an answer or something.
  8. mandrake50
    try a search for "stock opamps" for the part numbers...
    Maybe I am lucky, or my H10 is special for some reason. No issues to date. I kept all of the opamps I tried, including the stock ones... but a search would be easier for you than me finding them...
  9. Greg121986
    I received my H10 just a few days ago from MassDrop. The stock opamps in the Gustard H10 are

    Input Stage: TI NE5532P (96A35PM)
    TI NE5532P.jpg

    Headphone Stage: BurrBrown OPA134PA (4BW7NHB)
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2017
    vasu likes this.
  10. vasu
    Thanks Greg121986!
  11. bouky
    Hi guys,

    I have a H10 and I want to use it as a power amplifier.
    I want use my hi fi preamplifier where all my inputs are connected.

    And so I want to add an input to shunt the internal preamplifier of the Gustard. Do you know where I can solder my new input?
    I don't found any diagram. If someone could help me it would be so nice!
    Or if someone has the diagram of the Gustard :thumbsup:

    Many thank's in advance,
    Francky :wink:
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2017
  12. VRacer-111
    Got mine delivered in just a few hours ago and am enjoying it right out the box with my M1060's and DFR in line out mode:


    Can wait to get more hours on them. Went with 2 because will be modding and want one as a standard until finished and spare afterwards (because no real warranty with these. Opened them up to verify the voltage switches were correct for input power and it was correctly set ( 110v) on both. Looking to drill some cooling holes in the case for passive cooling along with all the other fixes I read about already in this thread. Might go with active cooling (small external exhaust fan remotely attached via hose, hose connected to the amp to draw out air)... but right now just running it stock to see how it does as is. So far after about an hour use the box isn't even warm to the touch at all in a room with ceiling fan on. Passive cooling may be enough... can never be too cool though...
  13. mandrake50
    Mine really doesn't get that hot. I have the Burson device to connect the case with the heat sink for the output devices and put copper pin heat sinks on the regulators.
    I measured it at around 98 F +/_ 2 degrees (depending on where I measured it. The ceiling fan dropped that 4 to 6 degrees F. If I can keep components under 100 degrees F, I am pretty happy. Of course, lower is almost always better.. at least for amplifiers...and CPUs !
    One day I want to figure out how to put the thermistor on my meter inside it.

    If you drill the holes, I will be interested in seeing the temp changes that it makes. The fan idea is interesting as well. Some holes on the bottom and pulling air towards the top back would be quite interesting.
  14. VRacer-111
    I think since one will basically be a testing unit, I want to go ahead and drill holes all along both sides and top of the cover. Block off holes with aluminum tape to test out different ideas... As of right now I'm initially thinking intake on the right hand side (opamp/transistor side) more towards the center/rear area across from the rear transistor bank. Exhaust in front of the voltage transformers on left hand side, between front panel and the forward power transformer. If I could bring it to work could possibly borrow thermistor setup to check temps. Could at maybe wire it up with multiple thermistor locations in strategic areas (case top, heat sink, voltage regulators, power transformers).

  15. gug42
    Hello guys

    Well sorry to ask a probably already answer question :
    I need more bass and sub bass : did you thinj AOP can help me or not ?
    Ans I didn't want to go for burson v5 ( expensive and problem with thoses high voltage)

    Last edited: Jul 9, 2017
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