[VRacer-111]

Specifically the HD700 for Sennheiser, the HD700 jank is worse than the Focal Elear/Clear cables...its really light and janky which is a bad combo - probably one of the most agreed upon 'hated' cable. HD6 series have very good cables, Denon / Fostex cables are on par with them but are more premium and quality feeling. Have the HD650 cable for my modded HD58X, it's a great cable.

 

[buke9]

I didn't find Sennheiser cables to jank, particularly for the 650. 800 has fabric sheath as well, and more durable than plastic. Focal I can understand as the cables creates extreme memory. Utopia cable doesn't, but heavy as hell.

Then you have never had the HD-700’s then the worst cable ever (well maybe a bit too strong) and at one time they cost $999. I’ve had them for 4 years now and the cable still has the same bends it had when new just crazy. My TR-X00’s is a bit better but haven’t got around to making me a new just yet.

 

[SilverEars]

Then you have never had the HD-700’s then the worst cable ever (well maybe a bit too strong) and at one time they cost $999. I’ve had them for 4 years now and the cable still has the same bends it had when new just crazy. My TR-X00’s is a bit better but haven’t got around to making me a new just yet.

$999?! That is crazy, and the market price plainly shows what a mistake that one was. HD600 stock cable had bends after unfolding, and the bend lasted a bit and not sure if it becomes unkinked over time. HD600 cable was pretty basic, it was thin.

When I look at the HD700, the framing remind me of HD598. It probably was a scam to make it look similar to HD800 with a lousy driver and acoustics.

The problem I have with TH-X00 cable is the damn stiffness, and how the cable split that goes to L and R easily gets twisted like that. It bugged me to see that.

HD650 cable was reasonable.

 

[The Third]

Never have had any issues with the Denon/Fostex attached cables.... they are the best built and most robust cables on a headphone that don't jank like the horrible cables that come with the Sennheiser and Focal top end headphones and are fairly light for how thick they are. If you roll them up right they will stay perfectly straight and never have any kinks or janks.

I think thats their only problem, the management of them not folding in some way due to their length. This is a problem during moving and such.

 

[minty1]

I think thats their only problem, the management of them not folding in some way due to their length. This is a problem during moving and such.

Is the twisting a common issue on the TH models? I haven't noticed that issue yet on my TR models. My only complaint is the length of the cables which I fixed by braiding the stock cables to a shorter length.

 

[The Third]

Is the twisting a common issue on the TH models? I haven't noticed that issue yet on my TR models. My only complaint is the length of the cables which I fixed by braiding the stock cables to a shorter length.

I suppose it is only a problem on the TH model as those cables are not removeable.

 

[ivanost]

Got mine a few weeks ago and have noticed some twisting in the Y-split section of the cable. I can unspool it to help, but the material has a memory and retains unwelcome ridges.

 

[gimmeheadroom]

I have to agree, the 600/650 Sennheiser cables are crap. That said, they work fine, I like the length and the handling qualities are good. The 800 cable is definitely a quality upgrade in that it's thicker and has a nice covering. It doesn't feel like 50 cents worth of lamp cord unlike what came before.

Disclaimer: I'm in the camp who doesn't believe cables have sound. But I still like quality materials and when things are overbuilt a bit.

I do like the stock Fostex TR cable in that it's similar to the Sennheiser 800 cable. They both feel like somebody spent some money there but the handling qualities are not very good. Mine tend to twist and bind. I'm using inexpensive (I won't say cheap because they seem well made to me) aftermarket cables for both now, partly because I wanted balanced cables.

 

[Vonx]

They are a kind of W signature, but to me they do subbass impact and treble energy better than their mids... definitely more subbass presence than any other headphone I've heard at normal listening volume (I don't listen loudly...) With driver housing damping, certain pads, and custom attenuators, they have very nice and tight bass which doesn't walk over the other frequencies.

Their lowend is very much subbass, rather than midbass, focused:

The combination of the Purpleheart's subbass presence, full bodied sound, brightness, punchiness, relatively clean sound with very good imaging and separation, and overall energetic sound really make it one of my favorite headphones. And with the right tubes in a Project Ember it absolutely comes alive compared to any SS amp and is much easier on the ears for long listening sessions. Porta Pros with Yaxi pads are a great complimemt to them, being much more midbass and vocal focused, warmer, relaxed/not bright, and rolled off at both ends.

Agree with everything said here, although I'll add that with some careful placement of the internal dampening ring (just to the left of the stock+ position detailed in ez mod thread), you can get lots of midbass punch out of them.

Also I really like using analog eq with ifi ican as well for that dose of extra midbass, works better than both sonarworks and any digital eq I tried for midbass specifically.

I still use sonarworks at 25 wet/dryness to bring mids up a bit but otherwise keep the nice stock signature mostly intact on Lawton PH

 

[minty1]

got bored at home so figured i'd try making my own custom cups using a mold of the cups. The molds didn't come out bad at all but will probably make another mold because I forgot to put in the mold registers and made a slight error when I was removing the mold from the foam board container. The mica powder and resin should be coming in fairly soon.

 

[The Third]

The stock pads on my Purpleheart's are chipping, I didn't clean them enough I suppose. But where can I cheaply buy new stock pads? I love the stock comfort and sound so that's the one I'd prefer.

 

[The Third]

Are the Fostex EX-EP-50 pads essentially the same pads as stock X00 pads? The price are rediculous, 70 euro's for a pair of pads??

 

[minty1]

The stock pads on my Purpleheart's are chipping, I didn't clean them enough I suppose. But where can I cheaply buy new stock pads? I love the stock comfort and sound so that's the one I'd prefer.

You can try an official Fostex dealer but i'm not sure how successful you'll be at buying brand new replacement pads. The closest you're probably going to get to the stock pads are the Accessory House Global pads or the Dekoni Premium pads for the X00.

 

[SilverEars]

got bored at home so figured i'd try making my own custom cups using a mold of the cups. The molds didn't come out bad at all but will probably make another mold because I forgot to put in the mold registers and made a slight error when I was removing the mold from the foam board container. The mica powder and resin should be coming in fairly soon.

If anybody had good wood cutting equipement, it would be fun to play around with various custom made wood cups. There's got to be some sort of science to acoustic properties of different wood types.

What other materials besides wood can be made? Can you play around with the surface of the cups with different patterns and textures?

I mean just slapping on Ebony wood cups makes such a difference.

 

[minty1]

If anybody had good wood cutting equipement, it would be fun to play around with various custom made wood cups. There's got to be some sort of science to acoustic properties of different wood types.

What other materials besides wood can be made? Can you play around with the surface of the cups with different patterns and textures?

I mean just slapping on Ebony wood cups makes such a difference.

You would have to own a CNC machine or at the minimum a lathe if you wanted to mill your own wooden cups. I don't have the technical knowledge when it comes to the acoustic properties of wood but I do know its definitely a thing. If you look at ZMF or Lawton they match certain types of wood depending on their density for a certain sound. You could technically use any material to produce some form of cup but sonically it might not sound that great. The reason i'm going with resin is because I wanted to produce some cups that look like the Rosson Rad-0. I love the wood cups from EMU and Fostex but I wanted to try something different because I already own so many and I like to tinker with things.