[lostumpire]

It always looks like an overrated headphone.

 

[jmills8]

It always looks like an overrated headphone.

Maybe , but I bought 12 pairs of them.

 

[lostumpire]

Maybe , but I bought 12 pairs of them

Great job

 

[shampoosuicide]

It's been ages since I last sold my TH900, which has remained one of my regrets. However (!), I just picked up a MK2 Lawton Level 1 set today for a steal.

I've tried the stock pads, Lawton pads, and a pair of aftermarket Denon sheepkin pads. I can vouch for the Denon sheepskin pads whole heartedly - they attenuate and smooth out the treble, dial down the bass, and bring the mids forward a great deal. Sure, they lose some of the 'magic' of the stock and Lawton pads, but what I'm hearing instead is akin to an upgraded, more technical, more refined pair of E-MU Teaks: much more fluid, euphonic, and tonally reifned - just what the doctor ordered.

I'm swapping between them and the DT 1990 Pro right now, and it's a real toss up - I'd be hard pressed to choose either one as the 'only one to keep'. The TH900 with Denon pads are fluid and euphonic; the DT 1990 (Balanced pads) are precise and accurate.

Edit: Can't seem to get the link to work right. If you search on AliExpress for 'denon sheepskin', it's the listing sold by Smart Watched Store.

Sadly we'll have to part again as I have other projects to fund at the moment. A Lawton Level 1 MK2 has gone up on the classifieds.

 

[lpd2]

Pearl White edition sound differences? Trying to decide on a new endgame level closed back. Z1R and LCDXC also in the running...

 

[Zbell]

Pearl White edition sound differences? Trying to decide on a new endgame level closed back. Z1R and LCDXC also in the running...

I recently went through a similar process to find my "endgame" closed back and considered the same headphones. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to demo them, so I can't give you my impressions there. I did end up getting the TH900 PW though and it's been everything I'd hoped it would be from a technical standpoint. I find them to be very engaging headphones without eq (and honestly with eq as well due to their macrodynamic slam).

I got a WA6 to soften the treble and mellow out the dynamics a bit to fit my personal preferences, but it's an incredibly capable headphone in my opinion. The soundstage width/height/depth is also beautiful to my ear, probably the most natural I've heard (including open backs). I wouldn't necessarily say the imaging is pinpoint, but its natural and sounds right - keeps the music very coherent. Definitely a different presentation to the music than my he6se or hd600s and I really enjoy them. They also isolate sound much much better than openbacks so I can actually listem to music in bed without my wife giving me crap.

 

[ledzep]

So after picking up a real bargain in a charity shop, a bit of advice / tips are most welcome ..... A good condition set of mk2's have been acquired by myself but I'd like to sort a few small issues. As you can see from the pics the band / cups are in pretty good shape and the drivers in excellent condition. There are some typical fine scratches to the cups in the odd area or two and the R cup where attached to the gimble is a bit loose maybe a 2 mm difference to the left ( bit floppy ) see difference in movement in marked pics. Any tips on getting out the fine scratches with a laquer polish etc and does the bolt attaching the cup to the band unscrew so I can either replace or maybe add a small o ring washer to make it more firm. Any help / advice / tips / do's and don'ts and sourcing of materials would be great.
Possible full replacement headband suggestions and changing the 2 pin connectors to a barrel input type connection or such advice would also be helpful.

 

[jokervn91]

Anyone own this and the X00/EMU can help me out? Im thinking of "upgrading" to the 900 due to the beautiful wood cup but wonder how big of the difference sound-wise? Bass would definitely be better but the treble peak worries me a bit.

 

[gimmeheadroom]

My TR-X00 has a strong V but my TH900mk2 Sapphires don't. They also don't have hot treble. Never heard the Reds though.

 

[manderson1]

I'm hoping to replace the stock cable on my Fostex Th900 mki's with a standard 3.5mm cable (and a more manageable length). Does anyone have tips on how to make that change, or a vendor who would do it for me?

 

[ledzep]

The stock cable is actually a good quality copper, was going to buy another but decided to strip off the black bottom part and re sleeve it in a nice burgundy red to match the cups and re terminated it with a 4 4mm balanced plug and trimmed it down to a more manageable 2m.
@manderson1 if you were closer I'd cut yours down and add you a 3.5mm jack bit I'm in the UK so I guess there's a few on here that can do it for you and are closer. But the offers there if you get stuck.

 

[jmills8]

I'm hoping to replace the stock cable on my Fostex Th900 mki's with a standard 3.5mm cable (and a more manageable length). Does anyone have tips on how to make that change, or a vendor who would do it for me?

Adaptor 6.5 to 3.5 or cut the end and put a 3.5

 

[jellofund]

the R cup where attached to the gimble is a bit loose maybe a 2 mm difference to the left ( bit floppy ) see difference in movement in marked pics.

does the bolt attaching the cup to the band unscrew so I can either replace or maybe add a small o ring washer to make it more firm.

I had to do some repairs on my TH-X00 a few years back but the TH-900 assembly is essentially the same.

The silver coloured 'bolt' you mentioned is actually the head of a hollow shaft with threaded internals (pic can be seen Here ). iirc a small spring sits inside this shaft and it is then fastened to the metal cup hanger by way of a small screw on the underside. The retaining screw is painted black but you should see it if you swivel the cups a little and look on the underside of the hanger.

It is really just a case of pushing down on the top of the shaft head whilst tightening the screw up from below, although you will likely need to remove the wooden cups to get a screwdriver in there!

The screw may start to work it's way loose over time so you might want to consider applying a tiny amount of threadlock to the screw thread whilst you're in there. Believe Foster apply blue threadlock during assembly.

Another thing to mention is that the screws used in the TH900 are JIS type rather than bog standard Philips. Philips bits tend to chew the heads up a little I've found (primarily the ones that attach the cups / drivers). Probably not a big issue if doing it just the once though.

 

[ledzep]

I had to do some repairs on my TH-X00 a few years back but the TH-900 assembly is essentially the same.

The silver coloured 'bolt' you mentioned is actually the head of a hollow shaft with threaded internals (pic can be seen Here ). iirc a small spring sits inside this shaft and it is then fastened to the metal cup hanger by way of a small screw on the underside. The retaining screw is painted black but you should see it if you swivel the cups a little and look on the underside of the hanger.

It is really just a case of pushing down on the top of the shaft head whilst tightening the screw up from below, although you will likely need to remove the wooden cups to get a screwdriver in there!

The screw may start to work it's way loose over time so you might want to consider applying a tiny amount of threadlock to the screw thread whilst you're in there. Believe Foster apply blue threadlock during assembly.

Another thing to mention is that the screws used in the TH900 are JIS type rather than bog standard Philips. Philips bits tend to chew the heads up a little I've found (primarily the ones that attach the cups / drivers). Probably not a big issue if doing it just the once though.

Turns out the spring was a bit over worked and more compressed than the other only 5mm but did make a difference, I've replaced all the screws for Philips style as they are easier to source ( and cheaper ) got the spring expanded back to the same size and fitted tiny silicone o rings at the top has just enough movement without flapping about and thread locked them, works a treat now, thanks for the advice.

 

[jellofund]

Turns out the spring was a bit over worked and more compressed than the other only 5mm but did make a difference, I've replaced all the screws for Philips style as they are easier to source ( and cheaper ) got the spring expanded back to the same size and fitted tiny silicone o rings at the top has just enough movement without flapping about and thread locked them, works a treat now, thanks for the advice.

Good to hear that things went smoothly. Hopefully that's them set for many years of trouble free service.

Applying threadlock was definitely worthwhile as the screws do have a tendency to slowly work themselves out over time which if left unchecked will likely result in the gimbal failing. Good luck finding that little spring and screw again when it does....(shag pile rug owners need not apply).