I’ve been eyeing those too. Guessing I should just go open back. I want something that sounds as clean and relaxed as the HD650/660S but with strong bass. Not sure what could give me that but I assumed it’d have to be closed back. I’ll share my single/balanced cable sound whoever they arrive. I’m not sure what to expect because they are just cheap Ebay cables. I bought copper and silver plated. I use a single ended Blue Dragon so it’s kind of unfair. If I like them enough. I’ll buy something nice.LCD-X really shines with a good copper balanced cable and good amplification.
I was also thinking of purchasing 4.4 cable for HD650...please share your impressions after you will try it, if it makes any difference in sound with HD650 balanced.
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[FiiO M17] Dual ES9038PRO, dual THXAAA-788+, dual power supplies, 9200mAh battery, 2 volume control modes
Thanks for the recommendation. I've listened to some of Ludwig Göransson's other work - Madalorian soundtrack, Tenet soundtrack - and enjoyed them quite a bit.I wrote this last night on the T+A Solitaire T thread, but wanted to post here too (with some additional M17 information):
I may come back to this, but a few days after watching Oppenheimer in IMAX 15/70mm format at the BFI IMAX cinema in London, which is an almost indescribable and transformative experience that has deeply affected me, I wanted to settle down my thoughts before listening to the soundtrack tonight (listening in full balanced mode with the T+A Solitaire T and FiiO M17 DAP with battery powered DC 12v input).
Oppenheimer (Original Motion Picture Soundtrack), composed and scored by Ludwig Göransson (2023, Back Lot Music, 24 bit/48 kHz).
I don't think I have ever been so moved to intense tears to any piece of music than tonight, with powerful feelings of existentialism and dread and awe.
If you have watched the film, in my opinion nothing short of the world's best home cinema AV system can replicate the physicality of the soundtrack, which is a major character of watching the film; feeling the full IMAX 6-track audio energise the large screening room is the greatest experience I have had in watching any film, so a well-crafted AV system will need to be worthwhile for gaining a fraction of that experience.
However, with a great headphone system, the emotive power is just as awe-inspiring and terrifying, disconcerting and beautiful, thought-provoking and eerily peaceful/tranquil. The M17's effortlessness and incredible balanced nature marries beautifully with the naturalness of the T+A Solitaire T sound profile; the synergy is breathtaking and profound when listening to this soundtrack.
I cannot recommend enough for those who have seen the film to listen to the soundtrack as soon as possible with the Solitaire T just for that, as these headphones are capable of rendering the emotional weight of the soundtrack wonderfully.
Any M17 owners using Fiio's PL50 linear power supply?
I just got one last week and set it to 12 volts for the M17. The display continuously moves up and down from around 7.5 to 8.0. However, since it activates enhance mode I'm assuming the actual voltage is still 12. Anyone else experience this issue?
I just got one last week and set it to 12 volts for the M17. The display continuously moves up and down from around 7.5 to 8.0. However, since it activates enhance mode I'm assuming the actual voltage is still 12. Anyone else experience this issue?
TheOneInYellow
1000+ Head-Fier
Remember that the 12v supply is the max, peak, amount the M17 is safely configured to use.Any M17 owners using Fiio's PL50 linear power supply?
I just got one last week and set it to 12 volts for the M17. The display continuously moves up and down from around 7.5 to 8.0. However, since it activates enhance mode I'm assuming the actual voltage is still 12. Anyone else experience this issue?
Unless you're playing a single sine wave at max volume, you'll hardly see such a massive swing of power output from your external power supply.
However, on music that may have peak moments of power, you'll see briefly a tad more power output, then back to normal levels.
Also, remember that in full DC mode that the entire M17 is now only powered as such, including screen, so if you have the screen, WiFi, RGB, etc, all on, these will consume power from your external power supply.
The P50 will show you this, as does my Shargeek Storm2 battery power bank (now renamed Shargeek 100).
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kelly200269
500+ Head-Fier
Yup, I’m using the PL50 with both my M17 and my R7.Any M17 owners using Fiio's PL50 linear power supply?
I just got one last week and set it to 12 volts for the M17. The display continuously moves up and down from around 7.5 to 8.0. However, since it activates enhance mode I'm assuming the actual voltage is still 12. Anyone else experience this issue?
My M17 can’t drive my HiFiMAN HE6se V2’s properly without using the PL50 and enabling the ‘Enhanced Over Ear‘ mode.
If the voltage is ‘off’, remember there’s an adjustment screw on the rear of the PL50 to control the output voltage on the 12V ‘preset’. Try adjusting this until you get the required 12V.
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kelly200269
500+ Head-Fier
@mfgillia did that work OK?
Thanks for the help. Just tried adjusting that screw but no luck so far - still won't go above 8. Not sure what else to try...@mfgillia did that work OK?
kelly200269
500+ Head-Fier
Where did you buy the PL50 from? What it new from FiiO/dealer? It sounds strange that a PL50 should be ‘stuck’ at 8V?Thanks for the help. Just tried adjusting that screw but no luck so far - still won't go above 8. Not sure what else to try...
I brought it new from U.K. Amazon but using it in Taiwan, which has standard voltage identical to the US so wondering if that could be the issue too. However, the product pictures on Amazon show the US standard 100-120V and the description in the manual says it accepts 100-120V or 200-240V. So... maybe not.Where did you buy the PL50 from? What it new from FiiO/dealer? It sounds strange that a PL50 should be ‘stuck’ at 8V?
kelly200269
500+ Head-Fier
I think the crux of the problem is the AC input of only 110-120V AC. If it’s a UK-spec PL50, then it probably relies on 230-240V in order to generate 12V DC. I think that’s your problem.I brought it new from U.K. Amazon but using it in Taiwan, which has standard voltage identical to the US so wondering if that could be the issue too. However, the product pictures on Amazon show the US standard 100-120V and the description in the manual says it accepts 100-120V or 200-240V. So... maybe not.
Yup! I’ve checked. FiiO produce two versions of the PL50, one for 110-120V AC input, and the other is a 230-240V AC input. The reason you’re only getting 8V DC output is that you’re using the ‘wrong’ version of the PL50 in the ‘wrong’ region.
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Yep, appears to be the most likely explanation.I think the crux of the problem is the AC input of only 100-120V AC. If it’s a UK-spec PL50, then it probably relies on 230-240V in order to generate 12V DC. I think that’s your problem.
I brought it new from U.K. Amazon but using it in Taiwan, which has standard voltage identical to the US so wondering if that could be the issue too. However, the product pictures on Amazon show the US standard 100-120V and the description in the manual says it accepts 100-120V or 200-240V. So... maybe not.
Sorry, you bought the wrong version so the output voltage can not reach 12V.
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Cables came in today. For cheap cables, they sound great. The silver is, as expected, significantly brighter and more detailed. The silver balanced definitely takes it up a notch in power and perceived resolution. I will likely buy a high end silver cable now. These cheap cables are pretty nice for the money though.LCD-X really shines with a good copper balanced cable and good amplification.
I was also thinking of purchasing 4.4 cable for HD650...please share your impressions after you will try it, if it makes any difference in sound with HD650 balanced.
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SibilantGoose
New Head-Fier
I'm proud owner of M17 upgrading from iBasso DX240. It is literally direct upgrade - everything is better and nothing is worse, sound signature is about the same. It is dynamic, strong and in addition grand sounding.
Have anyone tried to replace DK3 fan to noctua equivalent? My understanding is that I need so solder to replace the fan. Is that correct?
Also question what is this thing (sticky rubbery pads) from inside of the package?
Have anyone tried to replace DK3 fan to noctua equivalent? My understanding is that I need so solder to replace the fan. Is that correct?
Also question what is this thing (sticky rubbery pads) from inside of the package?
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