DX320 ROHM dac chips, Android 11, AMP11MK2s. *******NEW FW: 2.07*******
Dec 10, 2022 at 9:03 AM Post #7,441 of 10,347
DX320: Great sound - crappy manufacturing variances.

So I bought the Amp13 module. I removed the two screws. I was able to start slipping out the original amp module.

That's where it all stopped. The original module would not slip out past halfway. No, not friction. Apparently, one of the discrete components of the board, a yellow component (capacitor, I think) on the side, STICKS OUT TOO FAR, vertically.

That's right. It blocks the module from going any further. And not just by a little bit. I can't even slightly push down that capacitor to the board, because it really is sticking up by a lot. What?

Now it looks like I'm just going to have to return the AMP13 to the vendor (sorry, vendor), and live with the original.

That really is annoying.
 
Last edited:
Dec 10, 2022 at 9:42 AM Post #7,442 of 10,347
DX320: Great sound - crappy manufacturing variances.

So I bought the Amp13 module. I removed the two screws. I was able to start slipping out the original amp module.

That's where it all stopped. The original module would not slip out past halfway. No, not friction. Apparently, one of the discrete components of the board, a yellow component (capacitor, I think) on the side, STICKS OUT TOO FAR, vertically.

That's right. It blocks the module from going any further. And not just by a little bit. I can't even slightly push down that capacitor to the board, because it really is sticking up by a lot. What?

Now it looks like I'm just going to have to return the AMP13 to the vendor (sorry, vendor), and live with the original.

That really is annoying.
That is really annoying for sure. You may want to ask John @jamato8 , he may be able to help you there ?
 
Dec 10, 2022 at 10:03 AM Post #7,443 of 10,347
That is really annoying for sure. You may want to ask John @jamato8 , he may be able to help you there ?
I am a few 1000 miles west of NY. :^) I had one module that the cap needed to be pushed over a bit. It is fine now.
 
Dec 10, 2022 at 10:08 AM Post #7,444 of 10,347
I am a few 1000 miles west of NY. :^) I had one module that the cap needed to be pushed over a bit. It is fine now.
Yeah. Well. I tried a little pushing down, but the body of the capacitor is high enough (as I mentioned in my first post) that it is not possible to push it down, in my experience as not an electronics engineer, but someone who just listens to music. I also don't really have the leverage with even a tiny screwdriver to be doing much "pushing" down, because it's a very tight space.

So, since I don't, for some inexplicable reason, want to break my original module. I am screwed.

Thank you, Ibasso.
 
Dec 10, 2022 at 10:25 AM Post #7,445 of 10,347
Yeah. Well. I tried a little pushing down, but the body of the capacitor is high enough (as I mentioned in my first post) that it is not possible to push it down, in my experience as not an electronics engineer, but someone who just listens to music. I also don't really have the leverage with even a tiny screwdriver to be doing much "pushing" down, because it's a very tight space.

So, since I don't, for some inexplicable reason, want to break my original module. I am screwed.

Thank you, Ibasso.
If it comes out half way you should be able to remove the faceplate. The screws are on the front left/right edges on the same side where the stuck capacitor is located. Once you remove the face plate you should have enough space to press the cap down. Using something non-metallic would be best. Maybe a very thin piece of plastic that can slide in and over the cap while you pull the module out?
 
Dec 10, 2022 at 10:29 AM Post #7,446 of 10,347
But thank you for even considering assisting me. I'll as
If it comes out half way you should be able to remove the faceplate. The screws are on the front left/right edges on the same side where the stuck capacitor is located. Once you remove the face plate you should have enough space to press the cap down. Using something non-metallic would be best. Maybe a very thin piece of plastic that can slide in and over the cap while you pull the module out?
What screws? What faceplate? The only two screws I see are the ones that I removed to start sliding out the orignal amp.
 
Dec 10, 2022 at 10:38 AM Post #7,447 of 10,347
If it comes out half way you should be able to remove the faceplate. The screws are on the front left/right edges on the same side where the stuck capacitor is located. Once you remove the face plate you should have enough space to press the cap down. Using something non-metallic would be best. Maybe a very thin piece of plastic that can slide in and over the cap while you pull the module out?
Ok, this time I pushed harder. It went down. I think I scratched some other components on the board. Maybe the original amp won't work again. But that's ok since it's out and the new amp 13 is in.

Last Ibasso I am ever getting.
 
Dec 10, 2022 at 10:44 AM Post #7,448 of 10,347
Ok, this time I pushed harder. It went down. I think I scratched some other components on the board. Maybe the original amp won't work again. But that's ok since it's out and the new amp 13 is in.

Last Ibasso I am ever getting.
Glad you got it out. In case you try the Amp 11 MKII again and have the same problem, the face plate is the metal cover that sits flush with bottom of the DX320 body. The screws to remove the metal plate is shown below in red:

MKII.jpg
 
Dec 10, 2022 at 10:58 AM Post #7,452 of 10,347
Thanks for the help with the screws and faceplate.

Any suggestions for settings with my setup? e.g. Gain, etc. I'm using with Andromeda 2020.
Andros are among the most sensitive IEMs on the market. Definitely low gain. Also use with wifi and BT disabled. If you have to use wifi, then use 2.4 Ghz band. You will get noise if you use 5 Ghz. 2.4 is better but not perfect. Amp 13's NuTube is sensitive to EMI so keep your cell phone far away too. Enjoy!
 
Dec 10, 2022 at 1:22 PM Post #7,454 of 10,347
hello, I put the latest firmware and the sound does not suit me. I prefer the old firmware, Can someone tell me how to revert to the old firmware. thank you
Try restarting the DX320 a few times. I don't know why but it can change the sound. Then there is the 660 tool on the 1st page and you can use that on a PC to change to an earlier version of firmware.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top