DX200=Affordable High End Audio. Dual ES9028Pro dacs. AMP1, AMP3, AMP5, AMP7 & AMP8 ***Firmware support now up for AMP9***
Apr 8, 2018 at 10:04 AM Post #12,376 of 22,021
I wasnt joking on how to fis this problem

How to fix your amp4 the original 4.4mm socket

1/ open up the amp. U will see this 4.4 socket

2/ the red arrows point to the last ring, and it is broken. Cut it off with some sharp wire cutter. Don’t worry, it doesn’t connect with anything

3/ underneath is the box illustrated in blue with a Vice U shape grib, and this is your L+ channel signal. It is weak, and cause intermittent sound cut off like what u described

4/ fix it by stuffing a flexible cut of sponge or foam in both sides (to help the grib clamp in better). Just stuff it, no need for adhesive. Test plugging your plug so it feels just right on plug and unplug. Not tigh or loose

5/ tape up the top with the kapton tape when u originally opened the amp up. Or else u can use electrical tap to insulate between the socket and amp chassis

Put together and done!


Or you can also get for under $2 one of these stick-on binder hole reinforcements to use as a spacer (on top of the headphone port) :wink:

binder_hole_reinforcement.jpg
 
Apr 8, 2018 at 10:19 AM Post #12,377 of 22,021
I wasnt joking on how to fis this problem

How to fix your amp4 the original 4.4mm socket

1/ open up the amp. U will see this 4.4 socket

2/ the red arrows point to the last ring, and it is broken. Cut it off with some sharp wire cutter. Don’t worry, it doesn’t connect with anything

3/ underneath is the box illustrated in blue with a Vice U shape grib, and this is your L+ channel signal. It is weak, and cause intermittent sound cut off like what u described

4/ fix it by stuffing a flexible cut of sponge or foam in both sides (to help the grib clamp in better). Just stuff it, no need for adhesive. Test plugging your plug so it feels just right on plug and unplug. Not tigh or loose

5/ tape up the top with the kapton tape when u originally opened the amp up. Or else u can use electrical tap to insulate between the socket and amp chassis

Put together and done!

Here is a more detailed picture process

1/ picture one. The socket is cut at the plastic spacer and ring. Which exposes the inner grips of the L+ terminal

2791B990-BA51-4E16-AC89-5107A8BC3E3C.jpeg7CA55AF5-F10A-4A0B-B100-241A5F54EE5D.jpeg
2/ picture two. Just the very little piece of foam that can flex back circled in red as shown. I just push it into the space like the illustrated as orange stuffing into that opening on the very top, the orange arrow pointed precisely toward the space to insert. You can see this little black foam I left on the side of the chassis. Remember to plug and unplug your 4.4mm to make sure you feel it secure and easily remove just fine. Stuff in one small piece first to one side, test feeling it, then if needed add another to the other side

20180408_102442.jpg 20180408_102415.jpg
05A451FD-A168-487D-86A4-A6622BBD7C29.jpeg
3/ picture three. Put back the Kapton tape for electrical insulation between terminal and the aluminum chassis cover. Done
232A1526-EFE0-4D7D-9F8E-AB62F278E1C5.jpeg

@twister6 . Great idea, but I prefer a more real fix to the problem :D
 
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Apr 8, 2018 at 10:27 AM Post #12,378 of 22,021
Personally, I'm dying to try the AMP4(s), but there is a very exciting (for me!) piece of news here which only one other person - @CracKinGDucK - has mentioned; the new CB14 cable.
@Paul - iBasso wondering if you can say any more about this?
I've been dying to try a silver cable recently, a good quality model at a reasonable price, and this one sounds really perfect!
Will it be coming out at the same time as the AMP4s? :)
30441726_809825282561053_1568200642621603840_o.jpg

this is what i extracted from the hong kong distributor facebook page.

It's priced at HKD 998, with a 2.5->3.5mm convertor.
 
Apr 8, 2018 at 10:29 AM Post #12,379 of 22,021
When is amp 4s going to be released? It is almost april 9 in China already. I cannot enjoy my music without an amp 4
 
Apr 8, 2018 at 10:39 AM Post #12,380 of 22,021
Not sure how much spacer you will need here. But the tolerances is about 2mm as this picture will show. I wasn’t going to show the fix to the problem because you can send to Ibasso for replacement, but I now do want people to enjoy it since the amp4 is a limited release, you may have 4s as replacement :wink:

C65824A5-7425-4E6F-BF32-4D7A298B42B3.jpeg
 
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Apr 8, 2018 at 11:26 AM Post #12,381 of 22,021
New tuning for AMP4S?

Do... Do I need this, despite already owning AMP4? :astonished:
 
Apr 8, 2018 at 11:56 AM Post #12,383 of 22,021
The 4s is up on iBasso's site. Just ordered one even though I already have a 4. Must hear the difference!
 
Apr 8, 2018 at 12:14 PM Post #12,385 of 22,021
Here is a more detailed picture process

1/ picture one. The socket is cut at the plastic spacer and ring. Which exposes the inner grips of the L+ terminal


2/ picture two. Just the very little piece of foam that can flex back circled in red as shown. I just push it into the space like the illustrated as orange stuffing into that opening on the very top, the orange arrow pointed precisely toward the space to insert. You can see this little black foam I left on the side of the chassis. Remember to plug and unplug your 4.4mm to make sure you feel it secure and easily remove just fine. Stuff in one small piece first to one side, test feeling it, then if needed add another to the other side



3/ picture three. Put back the Kapton tape for electrical insulation between terminal and the aluminum chassis cover. Done


@twister6 . Great idea, but I prefer a more real fix to the problem :D

I use the same fix as @twister6...it works.
 
Apr 8, 2018 at 12:36 PM Post #12,390 of 22,021
Anything that works :)

Absolutly, and I think it's mostly to keep people away from breaking their amp modules and voiding the warranty :wink: Not everybody is handy with DIYs. To this day I get pings about my DX200 touch screen replacement guide, and I reply with a triple warning to do it at their own risk :D
 

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