[McCol]

I really don't see an issue.

He's posted the parts needed.

Anybody wanting to mod would now need to know how to do it, when I read through the thread and other similar threads it's like a strange language but they all seem to know what they are doing!
If you or I wanted to do this I'm assuming we would need some level of modding knowledge that maybe a video on this mod wouldn't cover.

For all we know it might sound total garbage (only joking whitigir!!)

 

[rutter]

Ok, so I'm just ignorant of the "etiquette"? It's pretty funny just looking at how little he actually posted pertaining to the mod which we have to assume is somehow packed with meaning. And at the same time he wishes the broader community would replicate and use his awesome mod. He can suit himself. I wish him luck. There's a word for this. Keep liking posts, buddy. Nice having a constructive dialogue with you.

 

[EggofSound]

Failure amounts to a loss of $200 with sufficient learning not guaranteed risking further loss. The shortcut is a comprehensive video as is common practice in DIY. Welcome to the bigger world of DIY projects, whether it is building something, modding something, or just putting together a computer. Can't say I understand the continuous promotion of this mod if no one wants to go through the trouble of making it accessible. Then it amounts to bragging. It also isn't free. The parts for the mod cost at least an additional $130.

There are many ways to AMP8EX.
Parts removal is the same as the repair process, such as heat guns, soldering irons and cuts.
Parts can be installed in a variety of ways, including reflow machines, heat guns, soldering irons, or combinations thereof.
YouTube already has many such how-to videos.

It's up to you to choose the exchange method, and no one knows what exchange method you choose.
Does the AMP8EX video need to be produced a lot according to each person's style?
You also have written about expenses.

Usually, I think that one AMP8EX is good.
People who like the sound of AMP8EX and want to "get OK, buy AMP8 and shoot videos" are people who like photography.

This is the basic thing of DIY. . .
You can share knowledge in this thread, but you can not provide the technology you need.
Everyone does not have to remodel with the skills to AMP8EX from the beginning.
Prepare PCBs and SMDs for practice, learn the selection and use of necessary tools, temperature conditions, and gradually smaller SMD sizes
I think that it will challenge exchange. There are also things to learn from failure.
There is no shortcut in this process.
It is not recommended to remodel AMP8 EX if you feel that you are "bragging".

 

[rutter]

Forget it. I'll see myself out. Enjoy the amp.

 

[seanwee]

Ok so what other head-fiers have successfully completed the amp 8 Ex mod besides Whitigir?

 

[Whitigir]

Ok so what other head-fiers have successfully completed the amp 8 Ex mod besides Whitigir?

@edwardsean has had it done, and so is @EggofSound . I believe @EggofSound also love the EX tuning so much that he applied it to Amp7 and his latest is Amp1

 

[seanwee]

Looking through the for sale/trade section I noticed this

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/interests-test-dx200titanium-ex-modified-sold.906843/

@Whitigir so to clarify, DX200 TI mod > DX200 mod = DX220 stock?

Referring to main body mod only

 

[Whitigir]

Looking through the for sale/trade section I noticed this

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/interests-test-dx200titanium-ex-modified-sold.906843/

@Whitigir so to clarify, DX200 TI mod > DX200 mod = DX220 stock?

Referring to main body mod only

Dx200TI-EX is better than stock 200TITANIUM which is already better than Dx200.

Nope! DX220 pale in comparison to Dx200Ti-EX. However, Dx220 is equally as good as DX200Ti stock, but both of them have different sound signatures, though same tier and performances wise

 

[seanwee]

Dx200TI-EX is better than stock 200TITANIUM which is already better than Dx200.

Nope! DX220 pale in comparison to Dx200Ti-EX. However, Dx220 is equally as good as DX200Ti stock, but both of them have different sound signatures, though same tier and performances wise

So would a DX220 EX mod be on the way?

And how would you describe the sound signatures of the DX220 vs DX200 TI?

 

[rutter]

I think he said modding the dap is unnecessary.

The DX220 + Amp8EX is a wonderful combo. It is beast like. I saw you asking in the main thread for this, and here I can respond to you with more details. The Amp8EX and DX200EX is a crazy combination to beat. It outperform the Stock DX220 and Amp1 MKII by a huge margins.

Dynamic, balances, finesses, details, extensions, and soundstage width+depth, back ground blackness

Now, if you toss Amp8EX onto Stock DX220. It becomes a Beast combo. The only thing it lacks is the Soundstage depth and blackness of the background, but you gain more punches/dynamic, body, and musicality.

The star here is really that Amp8EX. Both DX200 and DX220 are excellent platforms. The DX200 needed the EX applications to further enhance the performances, where as DX220, I don’t feel the need to modify it, beside the Amp8EX. Then you can see me analyzing the build of DX220 vs the 200, the DX220 itself is a successor to DX200 but using the same DAC-IC.

So, the answer here is that, if you have the ability to modify your Amp8 into EX, you will Jaw drop with DX220 stock, period.

Welcome to the modifications family of DIY, and hoping to see more successful EX Amp8, even if you list it for sell later, I am sure many people would love to buy it

I don't know.

 

[Whitigir]

So would a DX220 EX mod be on the way?

And how would you describe the sound signatures of the DX220 vs DX200 TI?

Yeah, I did post rough ideas about the differences there.

 

[seanwee]

Yeah, I did post rough ideas about the differences there.

There?

 

[EggofSound]

As we have noticed about AMP ECHU (PPS) exchange, we will share it.
(There is no cat, because there is no image)

Compared to AMP1 (MkII), the pattern of tantalum Cap part of AMP7 and AMP8 is thicker.
The width of the pattern seems to be taken wider depending on the number of circuits.

AMP1MkII (V7.0) rises from AMP1 (V6.0), but there seems to be no change in pattern intensity.
Hereinafter, it will be described as AMP1.

Work with more care when replacing parts of AMP1.
I thought that the Land of the ceramic Cap part of the jack part after the output stage was the smallest and it was weak to heat, but there was not a big difference in the strength between the tantalum of the power supply part and the parallel part of the electrolytic Cap.
(The ceramic Cap part thinks that it is the same as AMP7 and AMP8)

Part removal of these parts seems to be high even at 260 degrees.
Even if I lift it with a slight force because I thought it was floating, the Land will peel off.
If it is lowered to 240, the earth side where the pattern is written for a long time does not float easily and as a result it will give a long heat.

In the exchange of AMP7 to ECHU, I removed 4 Lands.
After all, it was still better to heat the ceramic Cap situation by hitting the tip of the D-type (minus driver type) from the side.

It is hard to recover with a jumper later.
The Land part connected from the back of the PCB was soldered by opening the pin hole with tweezers and inserting the OFC wire a little.
(Although the solder bridge alone makes a sound ....)

In the case of a handa chopsticks, it may be easier to be prepared for failure, as the condition is the same for all AMPs in exchange of ECHU.
In this part, I think that it is safer to use solder and heat gun up to the tantalum body.
(The subsequent removal of the solder bridge may be troublesome ...)

As AMP8 has few ECHUs, I think it is the most comfortable.
However, I think that the registers of both ends are close and bridge by default.
(I think that one side is not a problem by leaving, but it is a neck that ECHU is a little bigger than ceramic)
If you are not concerned, you may be happy with a lot of flux and cream solder.

 

[seanwee]

As we have noticed about AMP ECHU (PPS) exchange, we will share it.
(There is no cat, because there is no image)

Compared to AMP1 (MkII), the pattern of tantalum Cap part of AMP7 and AMP8 is thicker.
The width of the pattern seems to be taken wider depending on the number of circuits.

AMP1MkII (V7.0) rises from AMP1 (V6.0), but there seems to be no change in pattern intensity.
Hereinafter, it will be described as AMP1.

Work with more care when replacing parts of AMP1.
I thought that the Land of the ceramic Cap part of the jack part after the output stage was the smallest and it was weak to heat, but there was not a big difference in the strength between the tantalum of the power supply part and the parallel part of the electrolytic Cap.
(The ceramic Cap part thinks that it is the same as AMP7 and AMP8)

Part removal of these parts seems to be high even at 260 degrees.
Even if I lift it with a slight force because I thought it was floating, the Land will peel off.
If it is lowered to 240, the earth side where the pattern is written for a long time does not float easily and as a result it will give a long heat.

In the exchange of AMP7 to ECHU, I removed 4 Lands.
After all, it was still better to heat the ceramic Cap situation by hitting the tip of the D-type (minus driver type) from the side.

It is hard to recover with a jumper later.
The Land part connected from the back of the PCB was soldered by opening the pin hole with tweezers and inserting the OFC wire a little.
(Although the solder bridge alone makes a sound ....)

In the case of a handa chopsticks, it may be easier to be prepared for failure, as the condition is the same for all AMPs in exchange of ECHU.
In this part, I think that it is safer to use solder and heat gun up to the tantalum body.
(The subsequent removal of the solder bridge may be troublesome ...)

As AMP8 has few ECHUs, I think it is the most comfortable.
However, I think that the registers of both ends are close and bridge by default.
(I think that one side is not a problem by leaving, but it is a neck that ECHU is a little bigger than ceramic)
If you are not concerned, you may be happy with a lot of flux and cream solder.

Well that was a sorta hard to read

Can't blame you, translation software is still a little iffy when it comes to technical terms.

Do you have the original text in Japanese?

 

[EggofSound]

Well that was a sorta hard to read

Can't blame you, translation software is still a little iffy when it comes to technical terms.

Do you have the original text in Japanese?

I was sorry.
However, I chose the words carefully, so there is no Japanese original.
We will refrain from posting long sentences in the future

Please forget the previous post.
Instead, we will add 3 lines of summary and sound quality.
1. I removed the land of the pattern even though the ceramic cap was removed carefully.
2. I intended to replace it, but I enjoyed it for a long time by adding recovery time.
3. With ECHU, medium to high tones are smoother and clearer.

It is like this.