ericj
Headphoneus Supremus
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2005
- Posts
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Quote:
Maybe have a collumn for "missing from the BOM" for critical parts that aren't listed (pot, etc) and additional collumns for likely enclosure costs and likely power supply costs.
And maybe you should specify that these are the minimum costs if you go with the BOM, available kits, and popular enclosure methods.
I think it's important for some people to realize that while a dynahi maybe really does need the dynahi power supply - or at least benefits from it greatly - some amps don't need you to be particularly fancy.
The M3 is designed to be very forgiving of the power supply, so a TREAD and a thrift-store wall-wart is just peachy.
I think i spent $5 on my M3's power supply, because i don't need a printed board to build a power supply and my lm317T's cost me 30 cents each (real National parts, too).
The 30vdc 500ma brick cost me $2 at the thrift store - used to belong to an HP printer. it's held together with screws instead of glued or fused together, so i opened it up, replaced the filter cap, and put snubbers across the diodes.
Sure, the trafo in that brick is a laminated EI core and puts out plenty of EMI, but it's a few feet from anything that would care.
So, it would be reasonable to estimate that the minimum power supply cost for an M3 would probably be $17 for a TREAD kit and $10 for an elpac wart.
But many amps really should have more to the power supply than that.
(This is not to say that i don't believe in quality supplies - I have a nice 30vac 2a toroid that I'll be pairing with an lm338-K in a steps-alike configuration (mains filtering, etc) just for the hell of it. But the M3 sounds great with $5 worth of bodged & recycled regulated supply.)
Originally Posted by Dave_M ok, it looks like alot of people feel strongly about this so how about if i put next to the cost of the amps, the typical cost to build a complete amp? That includes everything. I can put it next to it in brackets with a note saying somthing like "price in brackets indicates typical cost for a complete amp". Can anyone think of a neater way of doing it let me know. If you think its a good idea then list some costs for the amps and i will fill them in. |
Maybe have a collumn for "missing from the BOM" for critical parts that aren't listed (pot, etc) and additional collumns for likely enclosure costs and likely power supply costs.
And maybe you should specify that these are the minimum costs if you go with the BOM, available kits, and popular enclosure methods.
I think it's important for some people to realize that while a dynahi maybe really does need the dynahi power supply - or at least benefits from it greatly - some amps don't need you to be particularly fancy.
The M3 is designed to be very forgiving of the power supply, so a TREAD and a thrift-store wall-wart is just peachy.
I think i spent $5 on my M3's power supply, because i don't need a printed board to build a power supply and my lm317T's cost me 30 cents each (real National parts, too).
The 30vdc 500ma brick cost me $2 at the thrift store - used to belong to an HP printer. it's held together with screws instead of glued or fused together, so i opened it up, replaced the filter cap, and put snubbers across the diodes.
Sure, the trafo in that brick is a laminated EI core and puts out plenty of EMI, but it's a few feet from anything that would care.
So, it would be reasonable to estimate that the minimum power supply cost for an M3 would probably be $17 for a TREAD kit and $10 for an elpac wart.
But many amps really should have more to the power supply than that.
(This is not to say that i don't believe in quality supplies - I have a nice 30vac 2a toroid that I'll be pairing with an lm338-K in a steps-alike configuration (mains filtering, etc) just for the hell of it. But the M3 sounds great with $5 worth of bodged & recycled regulated supply.)