[furyossa]

First time I have soldered and installed mmcx terminals in buds. It was quite the challenge in all honesty.

Uh, tell me about it. I soldered many of them and still, this is the most difficult part for me. Female MMCX for shells and male MMCX for cable are a nightmare.

 

[assassin10000]

Where did you buy your hand drills? Are the cheap ones from aliexpress worth anything (like this), or should I buy a more expensive one from a local model makers' shop? Do you have any recommended brands?

BTW I had one order from the end of january but after a week I cancelled it.

That's the one I have. Works ok.

 

[robar]

Here is my weekend project. This is my new PET, n50 32ohm. Super comfy and sound is nice. First time I have soldered and installed mmcx terminals in buds. It was quite the challenge in all honesty. Doing the install on my ER4S clone was much easier haha. Anyway this was a cheap test run before I wire up the 600ohm Beryllium in its shell.

I also broke open my KBear Knight buds and think they are some kind of titanium driver with n52 magnet. I didn’t like them honestly. Not after hearing quality buds. So thinking I’ll use the shells for something as I really like the way they hang on my ear.
Glad to see so much good info being shared on here lately as well!

Awesome glad we could help! Is this matte wood shell with mmcx from nsc store? Does it snap on n50 just fine without glue? I'd really like to try one but only if I know for sure that it snaps on speakers.
Could you share photos from the inside of kbear knight? Thanks! Btw it's not titanium, the listing says "biological" whatever it means.

I use these two drills for aluminum and plastic shells
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32836204519.html (the similar model you can find it in a local hardware store)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000246310948.html (and this model for tin aluminum only)
and recently I both this titanium coated cutting bits
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32867249964.html

Thanks, I'll look into them! At first I'll probably try a very cheap manual one before I invest in an electric type.

 

[headenvelopedinsound]

Awesome glad we could help! Is this matte wood shell with mmcx from nsc store? Does it snap on n50 just fine without glue? I'd really like to try one but only if I know for sure that it snaps on speakers.
Could you share photos from the inside of kbear knight? Thanks! Btw it's not titanium, the listing says "biological" whatever it means.


Thanks, I'll look into them! At first I'll probably try a very cheap manual one before I invest in an electric type.

 

[headenvelopedinsound]

That sounds right but will have to check on the store it is in my deleted purchases and I am on my cell. It is just plain old wood, no plastic coating at all on the shell. Look and feel great. I’ll probably reuse the shell and find another driver for them. I think the drivers in them would be good for the old knight shells.

I have a hard time believing KBears marketing on this one. Sure looks like some kind of alloy to me. But obviously no way to test it. I destroyed the drivers but you can see what’s inside. it’s got to be one of these drivers floating around. Sorry for the lighting...

 

[robar]

I tinkered with my titanium 64ohm build and I made progress thank god haha. The basic setup (generic mx500 with full generic horseshoe) was quite dark and soft, I wasn't exactly a fan. Now after a bunch of experiments I changed the full generic horseshoe to one half of very thick foam from jietu and one half of the generic type. It pushed forward the frequencies below 200hz and above 1khz by 1-2dB, especially the upper areas which were pretty dark before. Now it's more livelier and punchier. The low bass is more defined now as well, the first impression is quite positive. The treble is still a bit soft for me but maybe my source can't drive it to full potential. I'll test it for a few days and might try to improve it further. I plan to try the drill mod as well after I get the proper equipment.

That sounds right but will have to check on the store it is in my deleted purchases and I am on my cell. It is just plain old wood, no plastic coating at all on the shell. Look and feel great. I’ll probably reuse the shell and find another driver for them. I think the drivers in them would be good for the old knight shells.

I have a hard time believing KBears marketing on this one. Sure looks like some kind of alloy to me. But obviously no way to test it. I destroyed the drivers but you can see what’s inside. it’s got to be one of these drivers floating around. Sorry for the lighting...

Thanks for the pics! It does look more like titanium and not the typical transparent membranes, very interesting. Please update if you try to put some speaker on the shells, I'm very interested if it snaps on generic covers. I guess the 19-21khz bass or the titanium 64ohm would work pretty well in these.

Here's the link for the wood shell I was thinking about, this is the one you used? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000477388117.html
The N50 steel mesh is a pretty nice speaker but needs quite a bit of tinkering to get the balance right. I tried it in many shells but in the end I tuned it in a generic mx500 shell. Let me know how it sounds in the knight, but my feeling is that the knight shell need bassier speakers like what I mentioned above.

 

[subwoof3r]

The treble is still a bit soft for me but maybe my source can't drive it to full potential.

Same here, can't to anyhing to really improve treble part, which is missing a bit on my pair too.
But I really loves the imaging, soundstage, bass and the full mids on these drivers so it ended up to be my current favorite DIY drivers for now. For relaxed listening its the perfect choice I would say.
Not sure we can do something for the treble, as its just the speaker performance itself.
I'm switching with the other favorite 32 ohm drivers sometimes when I need more clarity and details and "V" sound shape with more intimate soundstage.
(the 32 ohm drivers I bought with 64 ohm titanium)

 

[caracal]

Guys, is there a way to glue two parts of a driver back together, or some other method? The connecting wire is not torn.
I won't bother if it wasn't kind of a rare driver.

 

[furyossa]

Guys, is there a way to glue two parts of a driver back together, or some other method? The connecting wire is not torn.
I won't bother if it wasn't kind of a rare driver.

Just connect both parts and put a thin layer of glue on the joint

 

[caracal]

Just connect both parts and put a thin layer of glue on the joint

Which types of glue would you recommend?
And should this incident affect the sound in some way?

 

[robar]

Guys, is there a way to glue two parts of a driver back together, or some other method? The connecting wire is not torn.
I won't bother if it wasn't kind of a rare driver.

Uh this is the worst besides truly dead drivers. @caracal I was in similar situation with some vido speakers, I found a lucky solution in this case, as I just snapped the whole thing into a new cover and it keeps the speaker together to this day. You could try mx500 or dp100/mx760 covers for example, my pair is in dp100 covers now and works perfectly.

Same here, can't to anyhing to really improve treble part, which is missing a bit on my pair too.
But I really loves the imaging, soundstage, bass and the full mids on these drivers so it ended up to be my current favorite DIY drivers for now. For relaxed listening its the perfect choice I would say.
Not sure we can do something for the treble, as its just the speaker performance itself.
I'm switching with the other favorite 32 ohm drivers sometimes when I need more clarity and details and "V" sound shape with more intimate soundstage.
(the 32 ohm drivers I bought with 64 ohm titanium)

Yes I guess the 64ohm will never sound as crispy as others but the whole sound lacks a bit of tightness and definition while the measurement graph in itself looks very very fine. So it's not really about sound signature but a lack of drive in my opinion. So I think a dedicated amp or a more powerful dac would improve things noticeable in my case. A little bit reminds me of my faaeal rosemary 150ohm which is very extreme in this dark/soft thing with my gear so I guess this could be the main problem

 

[caracal]

Uh this is the worst besides truly dead drivers. @caracal I was in similar situation with some vido speakers, I found a lucky solution in this case, as I just snapped the whole thing into a new cover and it keeps the speaker together to this day. You could try mx500 or dp100/mx760 covers for example, my pair is in dp100 covers now and works perfectly.

Sadly it's a mdr-e808 type driver, and it won't work with this one. Either it won't fit into mx500 or other caps.

 

[furyossa]

Which types of glue would you recommend?
And should this incident affect the sound in some way?

I use B-7000 but E-8000 is also good. Basically any glue they use for mobile phones can be used. You can buy one at a local phone service

 

[furyossa]

I'm looking a way to detach diaphragm from plastic cover without destroying cover? By the way my wires from voice coil are torn

 

[subwoof3r]

Yes I guess the 64ohm will never sound as crispy as others but the whole sound lacks a bit of tightness and definition while the measurement graph in itself looks very very fine. So it's not really about sound signature but a lack of drive in my opinion. So I think a dedicated amp or a more powerful dac would improve things noticeable in my case. A little bit reminds me of my faaeal rosemary 150ohm which is very extreme in this dark/soft thing with my gear so I guess this could be the main problem

I think you really should give a try to the wonderful RadSone ES100 DAC/AMP ^^ I use it everyday at work, mobile use and even at home (which very often replace my Fostex HP-A8C because not balanced).
It have enough power to drive at least much more than 300ohm drivers (it has been proved), great DAC with a lot of details. At least for 99$ you won't have to worry of this anymore
(don't forget to use my recommended settings into my SIG for best sound results)