[furyossa]

No it wasn't, but it's always pretty unnerving when you replace the face of it,
But it sounds a lot better then the 120ohm.

Although the best are my 130ohm and 400ohm, I have made a couple variations with those 2 and both are hands down the best in my collection
1. 400ohm (all around/slightly laid back/great sub bass dark)

2. 130ohm(best detail retriever, great sub bass, bright)
3. 500ohm(very good sub bass, bass mids and highs, fairly neutral)
4. 64ohm composite (sub bass monsters, definitely bass head approved, dark fun)
5. 200 ohm salvaged from to200 (good bass, sub bass, very balanced nice highs, bright)
6. 68ohm (mid centric, decent highs, really good vocals, dry bass, bright)
7. The whole 19-21 series is really great, cheap, fun v shaped sound, bright and bassy)


I never could get a great tuning out of the 600, it was great from the sellers, straight in the mx500 shells, but any of my other builds leave it in the dust.
The 300ohm aren't very special.
The 120ohm 14.8mm is just too dark

120ohm monk light is fairly surprising, I tuned it a bit dark, but it sounds surprisingly spacious, but the timber is a bit funny on it.

600ohm Bery? I thought you had it?

 

[furyossa]

I couldn't find any Nokia HDD-1 around so I decided to take risk and bought Nokia HDS-3. Drivers look like PK2 ones but measure 30Ohm.

Does anyone know anything about these? Thanks.

Post the link for Nokia HDS-3

Can you buy HDD-1 from here?
Nokia HS-23 uses PK3 driver
https://www.ebay.com/c/129397961

BTW... HDD-1 have 2.5mm plug for NOKIA phone input. You will need to replace cable for all Nokia buds

 

[Themilkman46290]

600ohm Bery? I thought you had it?

I do, in a box somewhere decided to give up on it, resoldered it too many times , tied everything I had, shells, filters, foams, even bought a fiio a5 just to push it a bit harder but it never satisfied like the other drivers..
It's not bad, don't get me wrong, see many people like it, but it seemed like it was lacking the highs that I was looking for.
These 64ohm 19-21 blue dots are burning in really well though, used the to200 shells, after grinded out the glue and crappy mmcx connectors I noticed a hole in the back, so I clean it out and so for, they sound great

 

[docentore]

Post the link for Nokia HDS-3

Can you buy HDD-1 from here?
Nokia HS-23 uses PK3 driver
https://www.ebay.com/c/129397961

BTW... HDD-1 have 2.5mm plug for NOKIA phone input. You will need to replace cable for all Nokia buds

Bought it on local auction site so the link won't be any good for you. I also bought 2 other Nokia headsets (HS31 and HS45), all were 2-3$ here

I'll try to reshell (use the Smabat M1 shells) and see how it goes.

Attached photo of the HDS3

 

[cappuchino]

Just wanna share with you guys my first ever successful "reshell & recable."

So the K's Nameless sound was cutting off whenever the jack moves. I decided to fix them by recabling using my leftover Vido cable. Opted to also reshell at the same time with the red Vido shell. At first I was afraid to do it as the first time I attempted recabling, I damaged the drivers of my Vidos.

I started going by the steps - with opening the buds first. But then I encountered a problem - the pointed tip of my soldering iron wasn't doing any soldering. I attributed it with it not being "clean" but I didn't have any steel wool (?) or flux to do cleaning. So I proceeded with using the barrel before the point of the tip which was extremely hard to be accurate with. Got both drivers unsoldered. And then I proceeded with the recabling procedure. I was playing music through my phone so that I may know if the recable was successful. Burnt the faceplate here and there but finally got done with it.

My second attempt with DIY-ing wasn't the prettiest nor is it perfect, but I'm just happy that I didn't damage the buds and music is still coming out from the drivers It's still a success story and an experience that helped me grow as an aspiring DIY-er.

*That first recable attempt where I killed my Vidos seriously helped me with this one. I was more careful with every action/move that I took.

Before:

After:

 

[rprodrigues]

No it wasn't, but it's always pretty unnerving when you replace the face of it,
But it sounds a lot better then the 120ohm.

Although the best are my 130ohm and 400ohm, I have made a couple variations with those 2 and both are hands down the best in my collection
1. 400ohm (all around/slightly laid back/great sub bass dark)

2. 130ohm(best detail retriever, great sub bass, bright)
3. 500ohm(very good sub bass, bass mids and highs, fairly neutral)
4. 64ohm composite (sub bass monsters, definitely bass head approved, dark fun)
5. 200 ohm salvaged from to200 (good bass, sub bass, very balanced nice highs, bright)
6. 68ohm (mid centric, decent highs, really good vocals, dry bass, bright)
7. The whole 19-21 series is really great, cheap, fun v shaped sound, bright and bassy)


I never could get a great tuning out of the 600, it was great from the sellers, straight in the mx500 shells, but any of my other builds leave it in the dust.
The 300ohm aren't very special.
The 120ohm 14.8mm is just too dark

120ohm monk light is fairly surprising, I tuned it a bit dark, but it sounds surprisingly spacious, but the timber is a bit funny on it.

I was about to order the 500 Ohm drivers but I ended up ordering the 600 version. As you had pointed out, it is not a great deal (since 130 ohm exist) and it seems I regret. I've read that they have cans like sound signature (as the k600), but I prefer the Rosemary in this regard.

I had already read your opinion regarding the 400ohm graphene drivers but I supposed they might be close to to400s I already own, so I skipped them too.

For 300 ohm, I own both k300 (they are not praised but I like them) and s300 (kinda meh). For 150 ohm, Rosemary is my current take (I like them)… so I skipped the DIY drivers for 150 and 300 ohm

 

[Themilkman46290]

I was about to order the 500 Ohm drivers but I ended up ordering the 600 version. As you had pointed out, it is not a great deal (since 130 ohm exist) and it seems I regret. I've read that they have cans like sound signature (as the k600), but I prefer the Rosemary in this regard.

I had already read your opinion regarding the 400ohm graphene drivers but I supposed they might be close to to400s I already own, so I skipped them too.

For 300 ohm, I own both k300 (they are not praised but I like them) and s300 (kinda meh). For 150 ohm, Rosemary is my current take (I like them)… so I skipped the DIY drivers for 150 and 300 ohm

You are right they are the same drivers as to400s, so I took apart my to400s and put the drivers in wood shells, the to400s was a disaster, no bass at all, hard to beleive its the same driver, it is more capable than the to400s
The 500ohm in my opinion is much better then the 600ohm better sub bass, treble extends a lot better, I regret the 600ohm purchase, for this price I could've purchased 130ohm and 400ohm

 

[earfanatic]

Does anyone have a link to mixed tuning material? Horseshoe foam and cotton differens sizes, but in one lot.
I dont want to order 100pcs from everything.

 

[Themilkman46290]

Does anyone have a link to mixed tuning material? Horseshoe foam and cotton differens sizes, but in one lot.
I dont want to order 100pcs from everything.

I wish it was like that, but sadly no, I bought 200 papers ranging from y2-y6, then I bought tuning foam (full-size, for driver not housing) 100+ pcs in 2 different compression ratios, then I bought 100+foam horse shoes for shell (slightly smaller and thicker then the ones meant for driver)
it cost me about $40+ in total for that
But, some drivers have a lot more capabilities if your willing to retune (400ohm, 130ohm, 19-21 series, 500ohm and a couple others) and some drivers are better simply as a drop in and listen, these are decent but once others are retuned, these can't compete (600ohm, 300ohm)
I can say, me and my wife have listened to the k's 600, 300 samsara's, the whole toneking TO series, penon bs1, ve zen, seahf 400ohm and countless others.
We sold the nice ones, kept the crappy ones (toneking) most of what I have made, is much better then the stuff we bought

So far, only the k's samsara was kept because the highs extend so much more then the drivers on AE

 

[captione]

Bought it on local auction site so the link won't be any good for you. I also bought 2 other Nokia headsets (HS31 and HS45), all were 2-3$ here

I'll try to reshell (use the Smabat M1 shells) and see how it goes.

Attached photo of the HDS3

Been really eying that HDS3 since i saw a listing at a local online shop. Is it equivalent to the red film or just your usual retro drivers? Also, if you can, please take a picture of the PCB and document it here for future references would love to see what's inside.

 

[furyossa]

Been really eying that HDS3 since i saw a listing at a local online shop. Is it equivalent to the red film or just your usual retro drivers? Also, if you can, please take a picture of the PCB and document it here for future references would love to see what's inside.

"red film" driver is not cheap. HDD-1 is $25 (that's about the last time ""red film cost Chitty store)

I spoke with @FranQL about PK2. He wants to order PK2 and "goddess" cable but balanced version from Chitty store.
He asked them if it was possible to get a "red film" 150ohm, and they told him it was possible and that they would inform him soon

 

[irv003]

aiwa v151 terminated to 4.4mm,
still original cable

 

[Maceinspace]

Did you put the foam on the speaker and not the shell vents directly? Then definitely try to switch that around, so bare speakers and thin foam on vents, check the seal so it's not leaking. This should sound fairly balanced, slightly bright u-shaped profile if you use standard black mx500 shell. The cover shouldn't be loose on the shell, find a pair that fits well or use a bit glue.
You can try to balance it further by drilling a small hole on the shell and maybe covering it with thin paper and/or partially covering the speaker vents with white thin horseshoe. Btw mx500 shell usually has somewhat recessed mids, it's a characteristic of the shell this is why many midcentric speakers sound okay with them. Maybe you can experiment with other shells as well that has different sound profle

I'm going to try this right now. Thanks for the tips on tuning. One of the 32ohm red dot buds has foams (not sure if on driver or inner shell) and a 1mm hole drilled in the back of the shell - the mids on these are definitely suffering. These metal shells arrived yesterday; I'll probably try the 32ohm drivers out with them soon and send them off to my dad if they work out.

I accidentally bought WAY too many 32ohm red dots so I've got a lot to practice with lol.

 

[Maceinspace]

You could try giving your dad recabled Vidos. My grandparents love them. Drives well with phones.

There's also the 15.4mm 32ohms N52 Drivers that has a blue epoxy, the specs states that they're very driveable.

If you're still bent on the 19-21 path, try the titanium versions of them (though they're the hardest to mangle up and prone on messing up the drivers so there's that), I'd suggest the Pink Dot since the 64ohm one is DEFINITELY not in your preferred signature.
There's also the 32ohm normal green dot 19-21 which is more leaner and bright than the red dot.

You know, I'll probably end up recabling one of my vidos and send that as well. It's so cheap I might as well let him choose! Thank you for the suggestions, it's a big help. I've got the 32ohm N52 drivers that I may revisit as well.

 

[rprodrigues]

one of the top ranking buds, sennheiser mx985 modded w/ TPE ofc cable and 4.4 gold plug

What a great cable! Where did you get it?