[furyossa]

Ok. The next topic/project was inspired by MSUR headphones (N350 and N650).
BTW ... I recently bought theirs earbud MSUR C210 (8mm beryllium driver) and I will talk about these another time.
These two headphone models have one thing in common: Beryllium driver.
I read somewhere that a cheaper model N350 sounds better than the N650 model.
Reportedly, according to the comments, the problem is a different size of the wooden cavity.
This comment gave me the idea to try how individual drivers behave in shells of different sizes.
For this project, I decided to use three metal cases of different shapes and cavity sizes with three 15.4mm 130ohm beryllium drivers.
These are the selected candidates

This topic will be divided into several parts, probably for each size, and the story will be based on:
- pros and cons of shells itself
- design and comfort
- basic modding
- the effect of cavity size on sound
For the last item, I will try to explain in brief the sound difference.
In order to better explain this, I need a few reference songs ie the songs that you guys use to test separately bass, vocals, instruments, treble, soundstage.
So this is all about the intro.

 

[subwoof3r]

My biggest problem right now is cracks on front covers, many speakers of mine started to develop this symptom especially after those basic mx500 shells which has quite tight snapping. It's very frustrating because it makes channel imbalance again, because the cracked covers start to get loose and leak sound.

I remarked the same in my builds after trying to fine tune/mod them. Generally when the speakers came brand new its perfect for the first snap, but after few dismantling I hear also this kind of crackling, this is annoying especially when I set my earbuds into my ears. Ithink the plastic covers are a bit more fragile than we could expect.
There is only one solution to fix that : using E8000 glue
But for now, even if I'm happy with my current builds, I still don't want to glue them. I will wait a bit more before this final step.
Anyway, I don't believe it cause much leaking, overall I never remarked any difference.

 

[robar]

I remarked the same in my builds after trying to fine tune/mod them. Generally when the speakers came brand new its perfect for the first snap, but after few dismantling I hear also this kind of crackling, this is annoying especially when I set my earbuds into my ears. Ithink the plastic covers are a bit more fragile than we could expect.
There is only one solution to fix that : using E8000 glue
But for now, even if I'm happy with my current builds, I still don't want to glue them. I will wait a bit more before this final step.
Anyway, I don't believe it cause much leaking, overall I never remarked any difference.

You know because I measure all the time, I notice these differences way before I can spot them by hearing. But now there are some cases where its quitr audible as well. The effect on sound is similar to a misplaced tuning foam, the bass/mids become thicker and the upper mids darker and grainier. I'll definitely buy the glue

 

[SupperTime]

How do I make this top to my dac

 

[DBaldock9]

How do I make this top to my dac

It would certainly help to have a CNC Milling Machine. Or, possibly a Dremel Tool with the drill press accessory (if it can be locked in the down location).

 

[Themilkman46290]

So I have been tuning and playing with a few drivers and buds for a little while and I must say that the 500ohm and 600ohm are much harder to tune then the 130ohm and 400ohm, and shells make a huge difference, so far the 3 hole wooden shell with the holes drilled out a bit with a 400ohm graphene have come out far ahead of my other combos, in second place is the Frankenstein yurbud shells I salvaged and the 130ohm drivers

With the 600ohm driver, I wasn't able to get the same amount of details
I kept trying to tune the treble up a bit but I noticed it sounded similar to me seahf 400ohm drivers, I tryed turning up the equalizer at 16khz but there was no result, so it seems the 600ohms beryllium rolls off at 15khz, have you guys noticed this? I haven't checked the 500ohm driver because I am waiting for a new cable


Either way, the 400ohm sound very very similar to my hifiman he4xx where the 130ohm sound closer to some ath m50

 

[furyossa]

So I have been tuning and playing with a few drivers and buds for a little while and I must say that the 500ohm and 600ohm are much harder to tune then the 130ohm and 400ohm, and shells make a huge difference, so far the 3 hole wooden shell with the holes drilled out a bit with a 400ohm graphene have come out far ahead of my other combos, in second place is the Frankenstein yurbud shells I salvaged and the 130ohm drivers

With the 600ohm driver, I wasn't able to get the same amount of details
I kept trying to tune the treble up a bit but I noticed it sounded similar to me seahf 400ohm drivers, I tryed turning up the equalizer at 16khz but there was no result, so it seems the 600ohms beryllium rolls off at 15khz, have you guys noticed this? I haven't checked the 500ohm driver because I am waiting for a new cable


Either way, the 400ohm sound very very similar to my hifiman he4xx where the 130ohm sound closer to some ath m50

400ohm graphene driver has more detail in mids and treble than 600ohm beryllium. Have you tried any silver cable with it?
I don't have 500ohm graphene but I saw that it has an identical frequency graph as 600ohm driver. Also, I noticed that beryllium works better in "medium cavity size" shells.
BTW I really like your builds. Spring that you use for the cable is nice addition to massive plug. Which shell did you "salvaged" for 600ohm driver?
Big plugs have always fascinated me. These are my favorite right now

 

[furyossa]

My latest builds for this week.
This one is my 2nd "over-ear" mod for MX500 shell but without MMCX sockets. For the driver, I used the Tingo TC200 model and for cable Tingo TC400 white "super-soft" cable. If anyone finds a link for this cable alone please share it.
Small diameter rivets are used for the vents and big ones for ends. With the help of sandpaper I made them match the cross-section of the shell.

Another pair is PK2 in metal (aluminum shell). The only metal shell I found that fits perfectly with the 14.8mm driver is from VJJB C1.
This shell has 5 vents only at the front so for the first test I drill back vent hole (2mm), added metal mesh inside to cover it and replace the cable with MMCX.
After a while, I start to lose signal because of the small space in the area where is MMCX placed so the wires began to break apart.
For the current version, I removed mmcx sockets and enlarged the back hole for the rivet.

 

[assassin10000]

Another pair is PK2 in metal (aluminum shell). The only metal shell I found that fits perfectly with the 14.8mm driver is from VJJB C1.
This shell has 5 vents only at the front so for the first test I drill back vent hole (2mm), added metal mesh inside to cover it and replace the cable with MMCX.
After a while, I start to lose signal because of the small space in the area where is MMCX placed so the wires began to break apart.
For the current version, I removed mmcx sockets and enlarged the back hole for the rivet.

I'm always on the lookout for good 14.8mm driver shells.

Was the mmcx at the back causing the issue? Or at the stem where the wires are again?

 

[Themilkman46290]

400ohm graphene driver has more detail in mids and treble than 600ohm beryllium. Have you tried any silver cable with it?
I don't have 500ohm graphene but I saw that it has an identical frequency graph as 600ohm driver. Also, I noticed that beryllium works better in "medium cavity size" shells.
BTW I really like your builds. Spring that you use for the cable is nice addition to massive plug. Which shell did you "salvaged" for 600ohm driver?
Big plugs have always fascinated me. These are my favorite right now

Thanks, the 600ohm are on the bottom, it was a pair of broken fengru mmcx metal diy pt32, nsc has the same shell for around 12 bucks for 2 sets, the black shells for the 130ohm build are some "sports bud" called yurbuds.

I love fat Jack's, that gold yarbo one you've got there is sexy ass hell too!

 

[furyossa]

I'm always on the lookout for good 14.8mm driver shells.

Was the mmcx at the back causing the issue? Or at the stem where the wires are again?

 

[assassin10000]

I see. Did you try using the M4 flush style MMCX which are shorter, instead of the M3 longer ones?

Left = M3 style, right M4 style


Or instead of rubber as the neck, using plastic or nylon?

 

[furyossa]

Thanks, the 600ohm are on the bottom, it was a pair of broken fengru mmcx metal shell drivers, nsc has the same shell for around 12 bucks for 2 sets, the black shells for the 130ohm build are some "sports bud" called yurbuds.

I love fat Jack's, that gold yarbo one you've got there is sexy ass hell too!

This is the link for gold YARBO. Also, I use this model but is short when you use it with a mobile phone with a protective case.
You are probably familiar with DUNU "Hulk" cable and modular plugs system. Now just imagine what kind of cable can by build with this combo
- modular plugs
- mini XLR for Y-spliter
- 2Pin, MMCX, TRS
This will be "All in ONE "End Game "DREAM" cable. It can be used for headphones, IEM's, earbuds, as an adapter cable. The sky is the limit
You mentioned earlier Seahf 400ohm. I plan on ordering 150ohm version.
Can you compare it with any earbuds or describe a sound signature?

 

[furyossa]

I see. Did you try using the M4 flush style MMCX which are shorter, instead of the M3 longer ones?

Left = M3 style, right M4 style


Or instead of rubber as the neck, using plastic or nylon?

I used M3 because the hole is already same diameter as M3.
The second solution suggestion is for M4 type.
For "neck" U need stable connection and not elastic. The aluminum ring or tube is better for sure.
You can cut off tube part of the larger rivet

 

[Themilkman46290]

This is the link for gold YARBO. Also, I use this model but is short when you use it with a mobile phone with a protective case.
You are probably familiar with DUNU "Hulk" cable and modular plugs system. Now just imagine what kind of cable can by build with this combo
- modular plugs
- mini XLR for Y-spliter
- 2Pin, MMCX, TRS
This will be "All in ONE "End Game "DREAM" cable. It can be used for headphones, IEM's, earbuds, as an adapter cable. The sky is the limit
You mentioned earlier Seahf 400ohm. I plan on ordering 150ohm version.
Can you compare it with any earbuds or describe a sound signature?

Thanks for the link, might order it next time I need one, looks nice, been thinking about a nice gold and silver plated cable, that would look perfect on it.
Well, it's hard to compare how it was originally, but it had a bit of sub bass, really clear and emotional mids and the highs fell off around 15khz, really good for jazz, slightly bright, very good positioning and seperation

Right now I have it tuned to sound relaxed, warm, juicy (for bus rides)

Its sad it doesn't go above 15khz, then it might have been perfect
So far only the 400ohm graphene is at that point
Ordered the titanium 64 ohm and couple of 32ohm n52 drivers, curious about the 300ohm 9u white drivers, has anyone tried them?


I was looking at that connector kit but it's wayyyy too expensive for my budget, but I was thinking of using a mini 4 point XLR as a y splitter then making different bottom ends in 2.5mm balanced and 3.5mm single