[deeplove]

silly question but when you strip that kind of wire, does it have strands or is it one piece of solid copper?

 

[wolfetan44]

  silly question but when you strip that kind of wire, does it have strands or is it one piece of solid copper?

Two different types of wire. One is stranded copper/silver and one is solid core copper/silver.

 

[deeplove]

Gotcha. Now I get it.
 
Cool. Now I just have to order the wire and connector and give it a shot. Sweet. Thanks.

 

[Levictus]

Hi guys

New to the forum, new to headphones, but no stranger to high end audio/cables or soldering. I just got my first pair of decent headphones, Audio Technica ATH-M-50s which I am doing the detachable cable mod to. Inspired by this thread and the cable gallery, I am wanting to make two cables but wanted to check here as I read through all the pages but am not 100% on my choices and methods.

1st cable is a 12' run from my chair to processor, 3.5mm to 6.35mm. Want to use Mogami 2534 sheathed in 550 paracord. Can I sheath right over the whole cable or do I remove outer jacket or copper insulation, paper, or all of it? I want to preserve some of the cords thickness here.
Thinking about using Amphenol ACPS-GN-AU and Amphenol KS3P-AU or... Neutrik NP3X-B and it's 3.5mm equivalent. Will either of these have figment issues with the cable I chose? Any other suggestions?

2nd cable is 4-6' portable cable 3.5mm to 3.5mm. I was going to strip out the core wires in the Mogami 2534 and sheath individually with micro paracord 1 and braid together (how much extra needed for braiding to maintain 6ft?). Wanted to use Amphenol KS3PB-AU on both ends. Again, any figment issues here or other suggestions?

Thanks in advance for the help, and sorry if some if this is repetitive but I want to be sure...

 

[Zashoomin]

Hi guys

New to the forum, new to headphones, but no stranger to high end audio/cables or soldering. I just got my first pair of decent headphones, Audio Technica ATH-M-50s which I am doing the detachable cable mod to. Inspired by this thread and the cable gallery, I am wanting to make two cables but wanted to check here as I read through all the pages but am not 100% on my choices and methods.

1st cable is a 12' run from my chair to processor, 3.5mm to 6.35mm. Want to use Mogami 2534 sheathed in 550 paracord. Can I sheath right over the whole cable or do I remove outer jacket or copper insulation, paper, or all of it? I want to preserve some of the cords thickness here.
Thinking about using Amphenol ACPS-GN-AU and Amphenol KS3P-AU or... Neutrik NP3X-B and it's 3.5mm equivalent. Will either of these have figment issues with the cable I chose? Any other suggestions?

2nd cable is 4-6' portable cable 3.5mm to 3.5mm. I was going to strip out the core wires in the Mogami 2534 and sheath individually with micro paracord 1 and braid together (how much extra needed for braiding to maintain 6ft?). Wanted to use Amphenol KS3PB-AU on both ends. Again, any figment issues here or other suggestions?

Thanks in advance for the help, and sorry if some if this is repetitive but I want to be sure...

So for the first cable you don't have to strip anything and can just put sheath right over everything.  I personally like neutrik a lot better than amphenol just because the build quality of neutrik is just so good and so solid.  Every connector that they make are very robust and very easy to work with.  
 
I would start with 7ft of cable just to stay safe.  With error and the braid you might have a little extra but that can easily but cut off but you can never add any to the length.  Again I would use neutrik but then again I am a huge neutrik fan.  Redco Audio has some really good prices on the connectors so you might want to check them out.  

 

[Kamakahah]

Hi guys

New to the forum, new to headphones, but no stranger to high end audio/cables or soldering. I just got my first pair of decent headphones, Audio Technica ATH-M-50s which I am doing the detachable cable mod to. Inspired by this thread and the cable gallery, I am wanting to make two cables but wanted to check here as I read through all the pages but am not 100% on my choices and methods.

1st cable is a 12' run from my chair to processor, 3.5mm to 6.35mm. Want to use Mogami 2534 sheathed in 550 paracord. Can I sheath right over the whole cable or do I remove outer jacket or copper insulation, paper, or all of it? I want to preserve some of the cords thickness here.
Thinking about using Amphenol ACPS-GN-AU and Amphenol KS3P-AU or... Neutrik NP3X-B and it's 3.5mm equivalent. Will either of these have figment issues with the cable I chose? Any other suggestions?

2nd cable is 4-6' portable cable 3.5mm to 3.5mm. I was going to strip out the core wires in the Mogami 2534 and sheath individually with micro paracord 1 and braid together (how much extra needed for braiding to maintain 6ft?). Wanted to use Amphenol KS3PB-AU on both ends. Again, any figment issues here or other suggestions?

Thanks in advance for the help, and sorry if some if this is repetitive but I want to be sure...

 
The diameter of the W2534 is (0.236") so about a quarter inch. The 550 is a reference to the minimum strength of the cord. Type III paracord is typically 550lb minimum strength and has a diameter of 0.0157", so it wouldn't be big enough to sleeve the cable as-is.
 
Make sure when you buy paracord that you look at the diameter. If you can't find it, try to email the supplier to be sure.
If you can't find one you like, you could instead get a 1/4" nylon multifilament Techflex NMN0.25BK in varying lengths off of eBay for a good price. 
 
The second cable you'll want to strip down the wires until you get to the paper-like wrapping just under the shielding. I like to leave that on as it keeps the wires well bound and with the cotton or nylon strands inside to help reduce microphonics. It also helps when you go to sleeving it into the paracord. Just make sure to put a small piece of tape on the end to avoid fraying and to make it slide smoother: I like electrical tape as a personal preference. 
 
As for the extra cable needed, I agree with having at least an extra 6 inches to 1 foot in case of mistakes and other unforeseen circumstances. You'll probably only lose a few inches, but it's better to have extra than not enough. 

 

[brunk]

   
The diameter of the W2534 is (0.236") so about a quarter inch. The 550 is a reference to the minimum strength of the cord. Type III paracord is typically 550lb minimum strength and has a diameter of 0.0157", so it wouldn't be big enough to sleeve the cable as-is.
 
Make sure when you buy paracord that you look at the diameter. If you can't find it, try to email the supplier to be sure.
If you can't find one you like, you could instead get a 1/4" nylon multifilament Techflex NMN0.25BK in varying lengths off of eBay for a good price. 
 
The second cable you'll want to strip down the wires until you get to the paper-like wrapping just under the shielding. I like to leave that on as it keeps the wires well bound and with the cotton or nylon strands inside to help reduce microphonics. It also helps when you go to sleeving it into the paracord. Just make sure to put a small piece of tape on the end to avoid fraying and to make it slide smoother: I like electrical tape as a personal preference. 
 
As for the extra cable needed, I agree with having at least an extra 6 inches to 1 foot in case of mistakes and other unforeseen circumstances. You'll probably only lose a few inches, but it's better to have extra than not enough. 

+1 well said. Words of experience right here.

 

[Levictus]

Thanks for the info Kamakahah and Zashoomin...very helpful indeed. Will get to ordering!

 

[Kamakahah]

I prefer paracord because I like how it feels over techflex. Also, the flexibility is better.

However, the techflex I find to be more durable and less prone to fraying like the paracord if it scrapes along something. Easy enough to fix with a quick pass of the lighter, but it's still something to consider.

 

[DMinor]

Lately I have been experimenting LOD's made of all kinds of different wires. I am really surprised that this short piece cable could make a such a difference. Tho I have not experimented any cables for iem's, I am wondering if the impact on SQ from this short piece of cable has anything to do with the fact it is critically bridging the ipod and the amp. Could it be possible that this short cable LOD has more impact on SQ than the long cables of the iem's?

 

[stoondje]

Well this is the first time i want to make  a good headphone cable, So ordered a good cable + Viablue T6S.
 
But i dont know how to solding them... I want to make a 8 wire cable but is does not seems to fit in the viablue any tips or this is just not going to work.

 

[Zashoomin]

  Well this is the first time i want to make  a good headphone cable, So ordered a good cable + Viablue T6S.
 
But i dont know how to solding them... I want to make a 8 wire cable but is does not seems to fit in the viablue any tips or this is just not going to work.

So the solder points on viablue plugs are already small so it might end up being a huge pain in your rear end but it is definately doable.  I don't even know why viablue puts holes where you are supposed to solder because they are sooooo small so I just ignore them and solder my wires onto the tab.  Fitting two onto each signal should not end up being an issue.   I would say that trying to fit 4 onto ground will be your bigger problem.  Just take your time and be careful nothing shorts and you should be golden.  also if the connections look really close use some heat shrink to isolate each connection.   Good luck.  

 

[Kamakahah]

It's going to be frustrating and difficult to make look clean without saintly patience and decent skills.

You can do it. I recommend a second set of hands to help.

Unless you absolutely need 8 conductors or just like a challenge, consider using less.

 

[Stealer]

Hi All,
 
I am trying to DIY a phono cables for a friend..
It a RCA to RCA connector type with the grounding wires on both ends..
 
PS - I don't own a turn-tables so no experience with this... just helping a friend
 
my questions
 
> anyone has a recommendation for the type or brand of cables to DIY..
> also the additional grounding wires, are they connected to the shielding of the cables..
      or just a separated grounding wire and  shrinkwrap along the cables.
      if you have a schematic, pls PM to me
 
thanks in advance
 
not looking for exotic cables but a one which is enjoyable to listen to with huge soundstage and smooth high and good taut bass.

 

[brunk]

  Hi All,
 
I am trying to DIY a phono cables for a friend..
It a RCA to RCA connector type with the grounding wires on both ends..
 
PS - I don't own a turn-tables so no experience with this... just helping a friend
 
my questions
 
> anyone has a recommendation for the type or brand of cables to DIY..
> also the additional grounding wires, are they connected to the shielding of the cables..
      or just a separated grounding wire and  shrinkwrap along the cables.
      if you have a schematic, pls PM to me
 
thanks in advance
 
not looking for exotic cables but a one which is enjoyable to listen to with huge soundstage and smooth high and good taut bass.

There's really nothing special to them, it's just regular RCAs, with an isolated grounding wire that goes from the TT to the phono pre. Notice the separate grounding wire in the pic below. I do recommend 28-24awg 5-7N solid core silver for the signal wires. Nothing fancy needed for the ground wire, just copper and some spades is all.