Not big on adapters at the headphone myself would rather build a cable for the headphone. Ordered the Acrolink still haven't decided on cable yet. Still thinking of some Toxic litz not for sure.
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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Just get the stock cable for ~$20 on Amazon and reterminate it.
Fasterball
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Guys I want to make a longer cable for my HE-350's. I want to do it from scratch for the experience. I know my headphones only cost 99.00, but I really just want to learn how to make a quality cable. My question is: the 2.5mm connectors that go to each cup do I have to use mono 2.5mm connectors and if I use stereo how do I wire them?
The HE-350s are similar to the hd700, oppo 1 and 2, he-1000 or so I've been told.
The HE-350s are similar to the hd700, oppo 1 and 2, he-1000 or so I've been told.
nasedase
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So I'm trying to repair my OSTRY KC06A headphones and it has a wire configuration unlike a lot of what I've seen. One red, one green, one blue, and one silver. I was wondering if anyone knows which goes to right pin, which goes to left, and which goes to ground.
I'm quoting this and posting a link to the image https://goo.gl/photos/BwRmKK4Lv5oBGE2SA
Head-Fi won't allow me to post pictures yet, so I'd be grateful if anyone could tell me what goes where with the wires.
liquidzoo
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I'm quoting this and posting a link to the image https://goo.gl/photos/BwRmKK4Lv5oBGE2SA
Head-Fi won't allow me to post pictures yet, so I'd be grateful if anyone could tell me what goes where with the wires.
Hard to tell without seeing the other end(s), but here's my best guess:
The Red/Copper and Silver ones are the ground(s) and the Blue and Green ones are for the signal.
Without actually seeing the cups to see if you can tell what wires go into where it would be hard to tell how to solder this to a plug.
I can tell, however, that you would need a solder pot or something similar to strip the enamel off of the wires before soldering.
Where's the fun in that? ; )Just get the stock cable for ~$20 on Amazon and reterminate it.
You can use trs connectors no problem the tip is for the + of whatever side and doesn't matter about the other it can go to ring or sleeve. Yes the cables are the same for all of those as long as it has a slim build to it.Guys I want to make a longer cable for my HE-350's. I want to do it from scratch for the experience. I know my headphones only cost 99.00, but I really just want to learn how to make a quality cable. My question is: the 2.5mm connectors that go to each cup do I have to use mono 2.5mm connectors and if I use stereo how do I wire them?
The HE-350s are similar to the hd700, oppo 1 and 2, he-1000 or so I've been told.
Fasterball
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So if I understand correctly - I can use TRS vs. Mono. Just for each plug I would solder wire to the positive post and leave the negative balnk and then solder the other wire to ground?You can use trs connectors no problem the tip is for the + of whatever side and doesn't matter about the other it can go to ring or sleeve. Yes the cables are the same for all of those as long as it has a slim build to it.
Fasterball
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This is just a guess. Green and Silver are your grounds and red and blue are right and left respectively.I'm quoting this and posting a link to the image https://goo.gl/photos/BwRmKK4Lv5oBGE2SA
Head-Fi won't allow me to post pictures yet, so I'd be grateful if anyone could tell me what goes where with the wires.
You can use either the in trs connectors it is left + tip ring + right and sleeve ground. It doesn't matter which you use but to be safe you can go to both. It depends on where the plug actually touches the ring or sleeve. It would be easy to tell with a multimeter. Eidolic makes really nice 2.5 mm mono connectors so you wouldn't have to worry about it they are a bit pricey but look great.So if I understand correctly - I can use TRS vs. Mono. Just for each plug I would solder wire to the positive post and leave the negative balnk and then solder the other wire to ground?
What end is this from? If you cut the connector off just use a multimeter on it problem solved.I'm quoting this and posting a link to the image https://goo.gl/photos/BwRmKK4Lv5oBGE2SA
Head-Fi won't allow me to post pictures yet, so I'd be grateful if anyone could tell me what goes where with the wires.
2ndRoad805
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Question: Is it possible to solder a 24 AWG solid core copper wire through the hole of ViaBlue's Small T6s 3.5mm plug?
So I'm being cheap. Relatively. Getting frustrated with spending $15+ for 3.5mm male to male cables every 2-3 months. So... I got two Viablue connectors (got some Neutriks for backup/wifeys cable). Couldn't find my old soldering iron.. then bought an Aoyue 936 kit, Type 1 paracord, Cardas quad Eutectic Solder.. some 4:1 heatshrink and now I'm in the $100+ range. So much for cheap...
And now for the cringe-worthy cable choice (if the ViaBlue connectors didn't do it for you). My 200ft Spool of Cat6 24AWG solid core copper wire. Logic? Well I see here many of the cabling options recommended over here quickly run north of $100. I'm trying to avoid crying hysterically. I hear solid core is great but it seems that is not the case for CAT6 cable. Microphonics? I understand what it is, but I wanted to see for myself how bad said microphonics would be. Using a power drill to untwist the pairs, sleeve them in paracord and then retwist them back up with the drill. Works like a charm thus far. Still waiting on my solder and iron to arrive.
Meanwhile, I notice the gauge of the wire is just a little too thick for the hole in the smaller terminal. The VaiBlue connector's strain relief is working fine though once the screws were tightened down. I'm wondering if it is necessary to bother trying to crush or maybe dremel the wire fine enough to fit through the hole before soldering?
Are there any tips? Has anyone tried to use larger gauge solid core wire on small terminals? Should I not worry about it and just solder it straight without looping it into the hole?
So I'm being cheap. Relatively. Getting frustrated with spending $15+ for 3.5mm male to male cables every 2-3 months. So... I got two Viablue connectors (got some Neutriks for backup/wifeys cable). Couldn't find my old soldering iron.. then bought an Aoyue 936 kit, Type 1 paracord, Cardas quad Eutectic Solder.. some 4:1 heatshrink and now I'm in the $100+ range. So much for cheap...
And now for the cringe-worthy cable choice (if the ViaBlue connectors didn't do it for you). My 200ft Spool of Cat6 24AWG solid core copper wire. Logic? Well I see here many of the cabling options recommended over here quickly run north of $100. I'm trying to avoid crying hysterically. I hear solid core is great but it seems that is not the case for CAT6 cable. Microphonics? I understand what it is, but I wanted to see for myself how bad said microphonics would be. Using a power drill to untwist the pairs, sleeve them in paracord and then retwist them back up with the drill. Works like a charm thus far. Still waiting on my solder and iron to arrive.
Meanwhile, I notice the gauge of the wire is just a little too thick for the hole in the smaller terminal. The VaiBlue connector's strain relief is working fine though once the screws were tightened down. I'm wondering if it is necessary to bother trying to crush or maybe dremel the wire fine enough to fit through the hole before soldering?
Are there any tips? Has anyone tried to use larger gauge solid core wire on small terminals? Should I not worry about it and just solder it straight without looping it into the hole?
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I had used up to 18 AWG for the terminals on 3.5mm, so I don't have the viablue because I don't like it pricing for the quality offered, but I don't think 24 AWG would pose a problem as it should be a very common sizes for 3.5mm
ai03
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Are there any tips? Has anyone tried to use larger gauge solid core wire on small terminals? Should I not worry about it and just solder it straight without looping it into the hole?
As long as the wire is connected to the terminal with solder, it shouldn't matter whether the wire goes through the hole or not.
I would advise against using solid core wire for any cable which will be bent/moved around often since they tend to break much easier and are less flexible compared to stranded wires.
Paladin79
Previously MOT: Cables For Less
As long as the wire is connected to the terminal with solder, it shouldn't matter whether the wire goes through the hole or not.
I would advise against using solid core wire for any cable which will be bent/moved around often since they tend to break much easier and are less flexible compared to stranded wires.
I was taught to never rely on just solder if at all possible so it is hard for me to recommend just solder when you have a solder lug available. I generally use a sharp pick made out of spring steel to enlarge the opening enough to accommodate the wire. If this is not feasible and you are using stranded wire it is possible to use wire strippers with separate openings for each gauge and lightly crimp the wire using a smaller gauge opening so that you remove some strands to achieve the desired size. By using a solder lug you are improving the strength of the connection instead of just tacking the wire to the side of it. When you think about it, even in removing strands from a loop you still have say 24 awg wire on each side of said loop so you are in effect ending up with a wire size of 21 awg. The hole in the center of the solder lug is filled in, lay a wire across it and you only have so much surface area to work with. If neither of these methods appeal to you, at least loop the wire around the outside of the lug then solder it. At least then you will have a better chance of the wire staying in place for years to come.
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